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Is this mechanic screwing me?

Old Sep 7, 2023 | 06:18 PM
  #1  
KingOfTheJungle's Avatar
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Default Is this mechanic screwing me?

Mechanic just did a bumper to bumper inspection.
came back with these issues that he said must be immediately replaced, repaired, or fixed
2008 Volvo C70, 155k miles. I have already replaced the front axles, front shocks and struts, rear shocks, coil packs, serpentine belts and tensioners, upper and lower radiator hoses.
The list of immediate fixes is
1. Timing belt replacement
2 Crankshaft seal replacement
3. Said there is battery acid in the negative battery cable and it needs replaced... $750 ???
4. Transmission fluid is dark and needs a transmission flush...
5. The oil filter separator??
6.oil pan gasket and seals

Now heres the thing.. when I took it in the shop I told them do a full inspection on it and tell me what needs fixed. At the time it wouldn't start and I couldn't figure it out. Apparently my number 3 coil pack had went bad and was shorting out and blew the fuse that controls all the coil packs..he said the negative ground wire to the car was not connected ??? Now right before this I had been throwing a code for "running lean on bank 1" and rough idle. I had a vacuum leak that sounded like it was coming from the PCV valve hose area. (Probably needs replaced) It had been getting worse and worse gas mileage and performance.
He didn't even know about the vacuum leak or the lean on bank 1 problem until I told him. He said he just cleared the codes and did an inspection. He said now that he knows the vacuum system has issues he can narrow down some of the things I have to fix... what's going on here guys... am I being screwed. What on that list must I fix or replace.. I know the timing belt is crucial but that and everything else is 4500 dollars. I need some guidance here. Thank you.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2023 | 07:43 AM
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Vida's Avatar
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Your vehicle is running rich at this point compensating for running lean which you may have an oil leak. Yes the oil trap box needs to be replaced. I’ve seen where the negative cable do get corrode and can have cem codes for the can network.etc…and other modules which the fault can be intermittent. He’s stating that the oil pan may be removed because of the gunk in the oil gallery but you can manage to clean that off. Remember that needs to be free of gunk or else you’ll have the same problem and create a future leak. At this point you should do the cam seals and the timing belt, it wouldn’t surprise me that it’s leaking.

Have someone scan it and tell you all the codes it has before dumping more money
smoke test the intake and exhaust system
Install oil dye
Replace oil trap box -the oil galley must be cleaned well
Replace cam seals if leaking or one of your vvt hubs may leaking. Install oil dye before determent that. I usually see the seals walk out of there where there’s a massive leak.
Replace timing belt

If the vehicle is dumping to much fuel then you’re looking at oxygen sensors and cat, keep in mind.

the coils do tend to short and cause an open fuse which it makes the car not to crank no start. Did he replaced the spark plugs, that’s usually the root cause of why the coil shorted, just letting you know.

Did you pay for a check out? If not then no you didn’t get screwed. But he sounds shady, if someone just erases the codes and doesn’t tell you the condition of your vehicle because you have to make a call either you keep it or get rid of it.

Story time.
No crank no start. I had someone tell me that his vehicle was in a different shop after I found out that the ignition was correct but the fuel pressure was reading high enough to throw a red flag. If it was running then it would have been correct but at that point I deferment that it was fuel related problem. So I spoke to the guy and asked him how and when this started happening. Happened after he got gas and started running rough the same day and the next it stopped. No crank no start. Took it to a different shop and have them replace the fuel pump and module. I mentioned that most people don’t know how to install the fuel pump on these xc90. The fuel pump wasn’t installed correctly which cause the false reading. They ran it from the top of the tank instead of the bottom inside The tank. Nightmare because it’s very difficult to install it without a cord to guide you but I ran into this before so it wasn’t my first show but I has been years. ;pI had multiple people try to install it so I can have a laugh with the old fuel pump and no one can do it lol 5 minutes latter I installed the new pump the correct way. Who ever did a fuel pump on an xc90 will get what I’m talking about. Anyways the root cause was diesel fuel and another shop couldn’t figure it out instead an after market pump and a PEM were replaced, but that’s not just the only problem. One of his injectors was leaking. It cost the guy a lot since he has dumped a lot of money but these stories repeat itself. Its hard to find a good mechanic or tech specially now days a lot of useless people are just replacing parts and don’t fix the root cause. A scan tool can tell you the condition of your vehicle if you understand how to read it. It’s like a new language out there but reading just that code doesn’t mean it’s faulty lol there had to be a reason how, when, why it failed. keep that in mind. Vida
 
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