Hi!

I'm a Grad/Phd Student in desperate need for a car. I don't have a big budget (~$5000) so I was thinking about getting a Volvo since they're famous for their durability.
But after reading through this forum it seems to me that "only" the motor is durable whereas the other parts aren't "better" than those in other cars. And as you might have noticed by now I don't have much knowledge about cars so I won't be able to do any repairs on my own unlike you guys here. There are however at least two mechanics (no big dealers) nearby that are somewhat specialized in Volvos. So to make a long story short the question is would you think buying a Volvo would be a good idea for me?

I have noticed that the cars in my price range are between 100-140k miles which, as far as I understood, seems to be the time where most of the parts need replacement, so I guess there might be more expenses incoming at the beginning, right?

Though, if I got a car as cheap as this one
DGC Auto Sales
I'd have another 1000-2000 dollars for maintenance and repairs.

Let me know what you think and thanks in advance.

 

The '97 850 is actually a very nice car; though that one is the non-turbo (NA) model, so it should be slightly more reliable (but a bit less fun to drive) than the turbo model.

Get it ckd out by one of your local indy volvo techs and go for it if you like it.

 

Hi RubberDuck: I think Volvo's are awsome, especially those built in the 90's. The link you sent of that wagon was not in execellent condition. I have purchased several cars from photos on the internet and I have learned how to read them. The first thing that stood out to me was the fact that 1. the drivers side marker light lense was missing, 2. The trim under the passenger side head light is missing, and 3, the tail pipe is off of a Chevy Lumni or something. Not saying that the car is not any good to own, it's just want I seen in less than 60 seconds from pictures that were walking by. If those issues exsist, I'm sure there are others.

I think the S90/960 is a very nice car for the money. Heck, I'd buy one for you, give it a once over (new timing belt, etc.) then sell it to you for a small profit. At that rate you would know that you'd have a car that should be good for 4 to 5 years. Very nice cars that usually have not been owned by the young and neglected.

Dont let the post you see here scare you. There are a lot of these 14 - 17 year old cars on the road and a lot of them look real good. Like they are 6 years old. Very high quality material, most of which is in tact. The tough thing is finding one that has been maintained. Getting it checked out like GDog said will go a long way. Any 5+ year old car will need some repairs as it ages. Use the buyer's guide in the DIY section and you can do pretty good.

If you have to purchase a car that is more than 6 years old you're better off with a Volvo. Just my opinion.

 

In my experience and what I've researched as well, Volvo quality is quite good overall. But this does depend upon routine oil changes and having been taken care of responsibly.

My 98 v70 xc awd has 200k miles and runs better than cars I've owned with 80k miles. My wife had to go out and pick up one of our kids in a snow storm saturday night. Our van wasn't a good option. So after years of owning the volvo, she drove it for the first time in snow, ever. She came back and said, "wow". Her comment was that it drove like it was a normal day with no snow on the road at all.

In any event, I wouldn't shy aware from a good volvo. The costs are a bit more for some things, like timing belt, radiator, etc., just like for a bmw, mercedes, etc.. But for me it has been worth it.

 

Thanks for your comments.

The non-turbo and FWD at the moment would be really something I prefer, since it seems there to me there are less problems or if there should be some the fixing will be cheaper.

Yeah, I guess none of the cars in what I would call excellent condition. I don't know why they say it all the time. But that's the general problem. Instead of openly admitting the weak points everyone is pretending to sell the best car ever. Though I was at the dealer before looking at another car and he pointed out the scratches on the outside and told me about the timing belt. But well, you never know.
And of course I'm going to get the car checked, but still I need some kind of a good pick in the first place because getting several cars checked will also cost a lot of money. But this problem has more to do with my general lack of car-knowledge because it could happen with any make.

The maintenance really is what I am bit scared of since it is so unpredictable. It could happen with any car that something brakes and you need to fix it or that just nothing happens and it runs for 3 years without problems. But even under the assumption that I just need to do the regular service I am not quite sure what kind of costs to expect. Getting a new timing belt every 70000 mi shouldn't be a problem, especially since I won't be driving too much. But if I had to spend $500-1000 every three months I can't afford that.

 

Most dealers trash any maintenace records that they have if the car has just one link in the chain missing. So, if they look in the manual and all of the oil changes were documented in there except for the last 2 years, they trash it. Often you can see those records from owners.

Again, if you are considering a Volvo 850/S70/V70 look at the buyer's guide in the 850 sticky DIY section. It will help you take a lot of the guess work out of what to look for or questions to ask. Here are a couple of tips:

1. When you go to look at a car, ask that they not start it for a few hours and tell them that you would like to see it when it's cold. When you get there, turn the key on (not start) and see that the temperature gauge doesn't move, you want to verify that the car is cold. Then turn the key and hold it up to 3 seconds to see if the car starts normally. You should NOT have to touch the gas pedal and just so you know, NEVER REV THE MOTOR OF A COLD CAR. If it doesn't, it already has issues. If it does start...

2. Jump out and run behind the car to look at the tail pipe. It should be blowing white smoke (if any). Not grey or blue or black smoke. If the smoke has any color other than white, there could be internal motor problems. Also, it is ok for water to be dripping out of the exhaust when it starts.

3. Let the car idle for a little while and pop the hood while it's running. When you open the hood you should not see any smoke or steam coming from it and it should sound even. It will make some noise but should not be clanking loud or squealing. Look around under the hood for a few seconds but mostly look for a sticker near the front end of the motor that tells when the timing belt was last replaced.


4. After the car has run for a few minutes, turn it off and ask a few questions. How often the oil has been changed. What type of gas they use. When were the spark plugs last changed. Just a few things to see if they have a grip of what's been done to it or if they have owned it long. I recently purchased a Nissan Maxima that the owner only had for 5 months. They just really wanted something newer and didn't want the car. There was nothing wrong with the car but because they didn't own it long I got a better deal on it.

5. Reach in and start the car again. If it does't start easy there could be an issue. Then mess with things to see what works and what doesn't. The owner will start spilling the beans. I don't know what it is, people just won't shut up. By this time they will usually be telling you everything that is wrong with it. Check the flashers, turn signals, and have them press the brakes so you can see the brake lights come on.

6. Then take it for a short drive. I usually try to go at least 5 miles. Be sure to take it on a road that you can go at least 55 mph. While driving, try to feel things. How does the brakes feel, does the steering wheel shake, what sounds does it make when you hit bumps, does it pull one way or another when you press the brake pedal, if you let go of the steering wheel does it pull to one side?

7. One test that people do to see if a motor is worn and leaking internally is the tail pipe puff test. After the car warms up, while you are driving along at about 45 mph, slam on the gas, hold it for 2 or 3 seconds then let all the way off the gas, wait 2 or 3 seconds then slam on the gas again and look out of the back window. If you see a big puff of smoke, the motor is likely worn internally or has some other issue.

8. When you get back park the car and let it continue to run. Check under the hood again and look under it to see if it is leaking anything. If you're running the AC, there should be water leaking under it. Turn the car off and let it sit a few minutes. Then look under it one more time for leaks. Green stuff is coolant, black stuff is oil and red stuff is transmission fluid. Look close at the bottom of the motor area.

If you are still interested after that, have it checked out by a car inspector. I suggest a car inspector over a mechanic because some mechanics are aprtial to certain model cars and may try to steer you away from some just because they don't like working on them. Most will tell you.

 

Awesome post RSPI!

If I read the ad correctly, that wagon is about 40 minutes from me. I do not see your location, but if I can be of any help, I'm happy to, since I'm local to the vehicle.
Best, Jude

 

Thank you, rspi.That's a lot of tips. I guess you're right, at least car owner's might get the impression that you know a thing or two, but car dealers might be a bit harder to "fool".
Santoury, I live in Framingham, so very close to that dealer. Obviously any help is more than welcome and the best would be to have someone have a look at the car who knows it but 40 min is a long drive and I couldn't really pay you much. But if any questions come up I know where to go now
Also I'm looking for other Volvos and it seems that there are a lot of V70 XCs. Luckily the buyer's guide seems to cover those as well.
I believe to have read once something about a certain production-year which cars one should avoid (not sure if all Volvos or maybe just V70) because the motors are worse than usual or something of the sort. Is there something like that or am I just imagining things?

 

Just stay away from the '99 S80.

 

You're welcome! Framingham huh?
I spent a good matter of time finding "the right V50" so I have gone to all of the local dealers (Volvo) - so if you are looking at any cars from a Volvo dealer, then do check with me, for my experience with each dealer - For instance, the folks at Boston Volvo Village were terrible! It was the best car and value, so I bought theirs, but their people leave 100% to be desired. I didn't know at the time, but my left radio speaker isn't working - I would not even go back there to have that fixed. They were that bad.

128 Volvo has excellent cars, but way overpriced. The salesmen were very unhelpful, and wouldn't give me the time of day, but the sales manager is the best person I've dealt with in my car search - very helpful.

I did not look at the XC's, because they are the gas hogs of the Volvo Family, from what I've heard, and been told. My aunt-in-law has one, and gets 20 mpg, since they are so heavy.

 

PS - there is a Volvo dealer right on Rt 9, in your neck of the woods - DO NOT GO THERE. They had (have?) a V50, that looks beautiful, but it has a laundry list of problems that the dealer would not disclose.
My mechanic is excellent - he is independent now, but he worked for Volvo for many years, so he knows Volvos. If you want your car checked out (for free, actually) - contact me privately - a good dealer WILL let you take the car to a mechanic for a check up. (128 Volvo won't let you, and Boston Volvo did not want to let us, but I made it clear that I won't buy their car otherwise, so I put a deposit on it, and they let me do it then.)

 

Wow, so much information. Thanks!
I've been to Boston Volvo Village but the sales person wasn't the nicest and I felt like their prices were too high. I didn't hear of 128 Volvo before but it seems their focus is on newer cars way beyond my budget.
Maybe the low mpg is the reason everyone tries to get rid of their XCs.
Do you know Select Used Cars in Medway?

 

Hi,
When I decided upon the V50, I focused on Volvo Dealers, so no, I have not come across "Select Used Cars."
I think your best bet would be to just drive around and take a look at all the used car lots, and see what Volvos are being displayed. There are some good vehicle searches on line - just search for the exact one you want, and then search by distance nearest to you. Hope that helps!
Jude

 

In case anyone is reading this: I went to see a V70 2.4T today. When I pulled out the oil dip stick there came out white smoke. However I did this when the motor was only running for like 3 minutes and not after the test drive, if this makes any difference. Assuming the PCV needed replacement how much would that cost?

 

I don't know much about Volvos, but I do know I love mine. A lot of people seem to love the earlier ones, but mine is a 2006 and I couldn't be happier. It isn't even the sporty model, just the basic, non-turbo, FWD, but I still feel cheated and let down whenever I drive anything else. When I've had it in the shop and had to borrow/rent other cars, it just makes me love mine more when I get it back. The quality is very distinct and clear once you drive one, so be warned: once you drive one, other cars (at least mainstream cars: GM, Ford, Honda, etc) just don't compare.

 

PCV replacement is usually a $600 job. Parts are usually $150 and shop time about 5 hours. My guess is $800 at the stealer. The PCV system is probably the 2nd most neglected thing next to the transmission. Then the fuel filter.

Now, you can do it yourself for about $125. Maybe another $20 for tools etc. That and 5 to 6 hours for a first timer.

 

So today I looked at a 2000 V70 XC SE with 94k miles. It already has a new timing belt and the transmission fluid was flushed at least recently. I contacted Boston Volvo Village where the Preowner had the car serviced to get a more detailed list of what has been done.
When I drove it I thought at first that the car is pulling to the right, but later on another street it was going left-ish, so I guess that was the road. Other than that the only problem I found was that there was some green stuff leaking (coolant?). The dealer said he isn't sure if that's leaking or if they just spilled some when they filled it up, but if it has to get fixed they will pay for it.
So I guess I'm gonna make an appointment with a mechanic and see what he's got to say.

 

5k isn't gonna get you any more than a headache these days.
Unless you luck out and find a diamond in the rough, your 5k dollar investment will turn into a money pit quickly- very quickly.
You get what you pay for. Insist on a car, regardless of brand, who's seller can offer the majority of major service records.
Having a mechanic check it out; used cars are hit or miss.
That being said, the majority of Volvo products are amazingly durable, even when abused and neglected!
Good luck.