Paint Protection?
Hey All,
We expecting to receive our 2019 XC60 T6 Inscription by end of this week w/ Advance and Luxury package. Wondering how we can keep our paint job pristine? We currently have a black 2011 Mazda 6 and you can see swirls, scratches etc from years of outside parking and driving.
I read about ceramic and clear bra. Is it necessary? If so, should I do it at the dealership or get it done outside via auto detailing place near me? Would that be cheaper?
Lastly, any cool features or tips I should look out for? We really excited!
Thanks!
We expecting to receive our 2019 XC60 T6 Inscription by end of this week w/ Advance and Luxury package. Wondering how we can keep our paint job pristine? We currently have a black 2011 Mazda 6 and you can see swirls, scratches etc from years of outside parking and driving.
I read about ceramic and clear bra. Is it necessary? If so, should I do it at the dealership or get it done outside via auto detailing place near me? Would that be cheaper?
Lastly, any cool features or tips I should look out for? We really excited!
Thanks!
most newer cars have a clear coat layer over the color. Swirls, scratches are usually on the clear layer which can be buffed out. Paint sealers such as "clear bra" are really an expensive form of wax which is intended to fill in the small recesses in the top of the paint. What I would do is have your car professionally detailed where they can buff out the clear coat, possibly spot file any chips then apply a sealant/wax layer to finish the process. I'd probably budget $250 unless they need to do touch ups for deep scratches. Easy thing is to visit a detailer and have them explain their cleaning/buffing process and get a price estimate for both the paint restoration as well as any touch up work needed for the deep scratches.
most newer cars have a clear coat layer over the color. Swirls, scratches are usually on the clear layer which can be buffed out. Paint sealers such as "clear bra" are really an expensive form of wax which is intended to fill in the small recesses in the top of the paint. What I would do is have your car professionally detailed where they can buff out the clear coat, possibly spot file any chips then apply a sealant/wax layer to finish the process. I'd probably budget $250 unless they need to do touch ups for deep scratches. Easy thing is to visit a detailer and have them explain their cleaning/buffing process and get a price estimate for both the paint restoration as well as any touch up work needed for the deep scratches.
First - don't buy b;lack cars - they show swirlies, scraches chips etc. waaay more than other colors. I buy white if possible, best car I had for hiding dirt was a 1983 Cutlass Supreme.- in tan. Seriously, car would look clean and I'd scootch past it in the garage and get filthy areas on my pants!! That Denim metallic blue is very nice however.
Here's how I take care of my paint -but first understand that a car's paint is subjected to baking in brutally hot sun, subzero freezing temps, all sorts of chemicals, birds poop, flying rocks, sands, empty boxes, bozos leaning/rubbing against it in parking lots etc. It's truely amazing how well modern finishes hold up!
I never, ever, not once, take my cars through a car wash that uses those rotating bristle brushes. those cause "micro scratches" which basically remove exremely small amounts of paint. Over time they remove enough clear coat to expose the color coat which rapidly oxidizes and is ruined. When the scrathes get wet and then freeze the process is sped up.
Those "wall of foam" type washes are only marginally better. God only knows what sort of dirt is in them and then they are dragged over the top of a car (not mine!!) Oh yeah, just how gentile do you think the soap they use is?
So, STAY AWAY FROM CAR WASHES.. Buy good sponges, brushes, detergent, wheel cleaner, etc and do it yourself. It helps you bond to your car too!. Don't forget to use GOOD 100% cotton towels. I got some at Pottery Barn (the heavy weight towels- they have too types but the right one is apparent in side by side inspection).I gave up chanois in the 80's, BTW. Harbor dirt, don't dry crevices, PITA to dry and keep supple. Remember, wash top down, rise frequently rinsing, once I do rocker panels I don't go back up since that iarea s usually pretty dirty. Wheels done seperatly with different sponges that never touch body panels.
Apply a good quality wax. Visit a few forums and see what brand sounds best. There are a number of good options out there. A good carnuba wax give some protection against small scratches, the polymer types help against chemical assaults, and so on.I try to use carnuba waxes in the warm months and polymers in the winter (eventually the salt the roads) Don't use "cleaner waxes" - they are abrasive (that's how they clean).And I wax every 2/3 months. Have a random orbital waxer/polisher, and do a car in an hour not including a beer break after applying wax. Always use scrupulously clean bonnets, never press hard.
Don't forget to get the black plastic trim pieces! I will recommend a product here - Mother's Back to Black has worked very, very well for me and seems to last forever (I do the black bit once a year because of thatand thay still look good when I do them)
When I leave a car at the airport I pay extra for the covered area, and generally park away from other cars. and never under trees. Trees drop sap and bird poop.
Once a year or so I use a clay bar to clean my paint.
I don't like to buff out the inevitable swirleys. Buffing removes paint. That said, my wife insists on having the dealer "detail" her car once a year.And they buff them. So far she hasn't broken down through the clear coat but then again I think the service tech knows to warn them to go easy (if they listen).
I guess the most important advice is to do everything yourself and use the best supplies you can. No one cares about your cars like you do. And no one wants them to last as long as you do.
I'm glad you specified the exterior - had I added interior this would have been a loooong post!!!
BTW - congrats on the Inscription. I really like this trim level and the dealer keeps giving them to me as loaners (I think he senses a weak self control function in my head). The option set is excellent, the inside is really quite nice too.
Here's how I take care of my paint -but first understand that a car's paint is subjected to baking in brutally hot sun, subzero freezing temps, all sorts of chemicals, birds poop, flying rocks, sands, empty boxes, bozos leaning/rubbing against it in parking lots etc. It's truely amazing how well modern finishes hold up!
I never, ever, not once, take my cars through a car wash that uses those rotating bristle brushes. those cause "micro scratches" which basically remove exremely small amounts of paint. Over time they remove enough clear coat to expose the color coat which rapidly oxidizes and is ruined. When the scrathes get wet and then freeze the process is sped up.
Those "wall of foam" type washes are only marginally better. God only knows what sort of dirt is in them and then they are dragged over the top of a car (not mine!!) Oh yeah, just how gentile do you think the soap they use is?
So, STAY AWAY FROM CAR WASHES.. Buy good sponges, brushes, detergent, wheel cleaner, etc and do it yourself. It helps you bond to your car too!. Don't forget to use GOOD 100% cotton towels. I got some at Pottery Barn (the heavy weight towels- they have too types but the right one is apparent in side by side inspection).I gave up chanois in the 80's, BTW. Harbor dirt, don't dry crevices, PITA to dry and keep supple. Remember, wash top down, rise frequently rinsing, once I do rocker panels I don't go back up since that iarea s usually pretty dirty. Wheels done seperatly with different sponges that never touch body panels.
Apply a good quality wax. Visit a few forums and see what brand sounds best. There are a number of good options out there. A good carnuba wax give some protection against small scratches, the polymer types help against chemical assaults, and so on.I try to use carnuba waxes in the warm months and polymers in the winter (eventually the salt the roads) Don't use "cleaner waxes" - they are abrasive (that's how they clean).And I wax every 2/3 months. Have a random orbital waxer/polisher, and do a car in an hour not including a beer break after applying wax. Always use scrupulously clean bonnets, never press hard.
Don't forget to get the black plastic trim pieces! I will recommend a product here - Mother's Back to Black has worked very, very well for me and seems to last forever (I do the black bit once a year because of thatand thay still look good when I do them)
When I leave a car at the airport I pay extra for the covered area, and generally park away from other cars. and never under trees. Trees drop sap and bird poop.
Once a year or so I use a clay bar to clean my paint.
I don't like to buff out the inevitable swirleys. Buffing removes paint. That said, my wife insists on having the dealer "detail" her car once a year.And they buff them. So far she hasn't broken down through the clear coat but then again I think the service tech knows to warn them to go easy (if they listen).
I guess the most important advice is to do everything yourself and use the best supplies you can. No one cares about your cars like you do. And no one wants them to last as long as you do.
I'm glad you specified the exterior - had I added interior this would have been a loooong post!!!
BTW - congrats on the Inscription. I really like this trim level and the dealer keeps giving them to me as loaners (I think he senses a weak self control function in my head). The option set is excellent, the inside is really quite nice too.
Last edited by donf; Sep 4, 2019 at 05:48 PM.
First - don't buy b;lack cars - they show swirlies, scraches chips etc. waaay more than other colors. I buy white if possible, best car I had for hiding dirt was a 1983 Cutlass Supreme.- in tan. Seriously, car would look clean and I'd scootch past it in the garage and get filthy areas on my pants!! That Denim metallic blue is very nice however.
Here's how I take care of my paint -but first understand that a car's paint is subjected to baking in brutally hot sun, subzero freezing temps, all sorts of chemicals, birds poop, flying rocks, sands, empty boxes, bozos leaning/rubbing against it in parking lots etc. It's truely amazing how well modern finishes hold up!
I never, ever, not once, take my cars through a car wash that uses those rotating bristle brushes. those cause "micro scratches" which basically remove exremely small amounts of paint. Over time they remove enough clear coat to expose the color coat which rapidly oxidizes and is ruined. When the scrathes get wet and then freeze the process is sped up.
Those "wall of foam" type washes are only marginally better. God only knows what sort of dirt is in them and then they are dragged over the top of a car (not mine!!) Oh yeah, just how gentile do you think the soap they use is?
So, STAY AWAY FROM CAR WASHES.. Buy good sponges, brushes, detergent, wheel cleaner, etc and do it yourself. It helps you bond to your car too!. Don't forget to use GOOD 100% cotton towels. I got some at Pottery Barn (the heavy weight towels- they have too types but the right one is apparent in side by side inspection).I gave up chanois in the 80's, BTW. Harbor dirt, don't dry crevices, PITA to dry and keep supple. Remember, wash top down, rise frequently rinsing, once I do rocker panels I don't go back up since that iarea s usually pretty dirty. Wheels done seperatly with different sponges that never touch body panels.
Apply a good quality wax. Visit a few forums and see what brand sounds best. There are a number of good options out there. A good carnuba wax give some protection against small scratches, the polymer types help against chemical assaults, and so on.I try to use carnuba waxes in the warm months and polymers in the winter (eventually the salt the roads) Don't use "cleaner waxes" - they are abrasive (that's how they clean).And I wax every 2/3 months. Have a random orbital waxer/polisher, and do a car in an hour not including a beer break after applying wax. Always use scrupulously clean bonnets, never press hard.
Don't forget to get the black plastic trim pieces! I will recommend a product here - Mother's Back to Black has worked very, very well for me and seems to last forever (I do the black bit once a year because of thatand thay still look good when I do them)
When I leave a car at the airport I pay extra for the covered area, and generally park away from other cars. and never under trees. Trees drop sap and bird poop.
Once a year or so I use a clay bar to clean my paint.
I don't like to buff out the inevitable swirleys. Buffing removes paint. That said, my wife insists on having the dealer "detail" her car once a year.And they buff them. So far she hasn't broken down through the clear coat but then again I think the service tech knows to warn them to go easy (if they listen).
I guess the most important advice is to do everything yourself and use the best supplies you can. No one cares about your cars like you do. And no one wants them to last as long as you do.
I'm glad you specified the exterior - had I added interior this would have been a loooong post!!!
BTW - congrats on the Inscription. I really like this trim level and the dealer keeps giving them to me as loaners (I think he senses a weak self control function in my head). The option set is excellent, the inside is really quite nice too.
Here's how I take care of my paint -but first understand that a car's paint is subjected to baking in brutally hot sun, subzero freezing temps, all sorts of chemicals, birds poop, flying rocks, sands, empty boxes, bozos leaning/rubbing against it in parking lots etc. It's truely amazing how well modern finishes hold up!
I never, ever, not once, take my cars through a car wash that uses those rotating bristle brushes. those cause "micro scratches" which basically remove exremely small amounts of paint. Over time they remove enough clear coat to expose the color coat which rapidly oxidizes and is ruined. When the scrathes get wet and then freeze the process is sped up.
Those "wall of foam" type washes are only marginally better. God only knows what sort of dirt is in them and then they are dragged over the top of a car (not mine!!) Oh yeah, just how gentile do you think the soap they use is?
So, STAY AWAY FROM CAR WASHES.. Buy good sponges, brushes, detergent, wheel cleaner, etc and do it yourself. It helps you bond to your car too!. Don't forget to use GOOD 100% cotton towels. I got some at Pottery Barn (the heavy weight towels- they have too types but the right one is apparent in side by side inspection).I gave up chanois in the 80's, BTW. Harbor dirt, don't dry crevices, PITA to dry and keep supple. Remember, wash top down, rise frequently rinsing, once I do rocker panels I don't go back up since that iarea s usually pretty dirty. Wheels done seperatly with different sponges that never touch body panels.
Apply a good quality wax. Visit a few forums and see what brand sounds best. There are a number of good options out there. A good carnuba wax give some protection against small scratches, the polymer types help against chemical assaults, and so on.I try to use carnuba waxes in the warm months and polymers in the winter (eventually the salt the roads) Don't use "cleaner waxes" - they are abrasive (that's how they clean).And I wax every 2/3 months. Have a random orbital waxer/polisher, and do a car in an hour not including a beer break after applying wax. Always use scrupulously clean bonnets, never press hard.
Don't forget to get the black plastic trim pieces! I will recommend a product here - Mother's Back to Black has worked very, very well for me and seems to last forever (I do the black bit once a year because of thatand thay still look good when I do them)
When I leave a car at the airport I pay extra for the covered area, and generally park away from other cars. and never under trees. Trees drop sap and bird poop.
Once a year or so I use a clay bar to clean my paint.
I don't like to buff out the inevitable swirleys. Buffing removes paint. That said, my wife insists on having the dealer "detail" her car once a year.And they buff them. So far she hasn't broken down through the clear coat but then again I think the service tech knows to warn them to go easy (if they listen).
I guess the most important advice is to do everything yourself and use the best supplies you can. No one cares about your cars like you do. And no one wants them to last as long as you do.
I'm glad you specified the exterior - had I added interior this would have been a loooong post!!!
BTW - congrats on the Inscription. I really like this trim level and the dealer keeps giving them to me as loaners (I think he senses a weak self control function in my head). The option set is excellent, the inside is really quite nice too.
I like to wash and clean at my house, my water, my bucket, my towels etc. I even have a bucket that I wrote in black permanent ink, bucket is for car washing ONLY.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
20cubed
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
5
Jan 5, 2019 08:02 PM



