Synthetic or regular oil S80 Volvo 2011
#1
#2
are you asking about a 2001 or a 2011? easy answer is check the owners manual (online versions can be found at https://www.volvocars.com/us/own/own...owners-manuals )
For a 2011, Volvo suggests a 5W30 standard to be changed at the noted maintenance intervals but notes synthetic in a 0W30 or 0W40 weight can be used where the car is driven under hard conditions (ie extreme temps, towing trailers etc).
My experience is synthetic lasts longer and resists build up of tarnish which can gum up the VVT gear. The down side is synthetic is more expensive than standard but doesn't create issues with the car. My thinking is if the car is under say 100 or 120K miles, there's no issue with the upgrade - if the car already has 150 or 200K miles, there's no real benefit to moving to synthetic. If you have an older model (ie 2001) and have been running standard, you can move to a high mileage oil which has seal softeners in both a standard or standard/synthetic blend.
For a 2011, Volvo suggests a 5W30 standard to be changed at the noted maintenance intervals but notes synthetic in a 0W30 or 0W40 weight can be used where the car is driven under hard conditions (ie extreme temps, towing trailers etc).
My experience is synthetic lasts longer and resists build up of tarnish which can gum up the VVT gear. The down side is synthetic is more expensive than standard but doesn't create issues with the car. My thinking is if the car is under say 100 or 120K miles, there's no issue with the upgrade - if the car already has 150 or 200K miles, there's no real benefit to moving to synthetic. If you have an older model (ie 2001) and have been running standard, you can move to a high mileage oil which has seal softeners in both a standard or standard/synthetic blend.
#3
A common question on just about every auto forum.
mt6127 is correct (as always) but heis answer requires a bit if careful reading. "but notes synthetic in a 0W30 or 0W40 weight can be used where the car is driven under hard conditions (ie extreme temps, towing trailers etc)."
, Traditionally auto maker include what most of us would call gentle conditions under the hard condition category.. Just firing up a cold engine and running down the road a mile to get some smokes and cokes and home again is actually rather rough on a car. The engine - and hence the oil- does not heat up as moisture tends to collect in the oil. Moisture is a containment and reduce the effectiveness of the oil and can increase sediment.. Syn oils are more free flowing when cold and so there is improved lubrication in those critical first few minute. Stop and go driving (just around town or city) is also cited as hard driving, you put a lot more revs on an engine per mile in city traffic than in top gear on the highway. Also many (most?) Volvos are turbos - heat goes up in turbo, that's justa fact of life. So there's your "extreme temp" caution.
Dino lube has improved over the years (well, the lube is the same but the additives have improved the brew) but synthetic is stll a better product because as the regular oil has improved so has the synthetic - in both cases the stuff in the bottle is way better than what you poured in 1977 or so. Most people here are younger than me ( OK, most people on the planet are younger than me) and don't remember when Mobil 1 was introduced. Most fleet vehicles were quick to see the advantages and switched, BTW. ). All that damage to the oil naturally decreases it's ability to protect metal parts as it ages, synthetics degrade more slowly however so as we approach "the limit" (whatever you may choose to make it) your engine will have better protection against wear, sludge build up if synthetic is in the crankcase.
A few additions to mt6127's answer- Yes, an ouil change of synthetic will cost more - but, if you keep the vehicle a long, long time, then your car will likely reap cash savings as your engine lasts longer. As to high mileage, the recomendation to swith back to dino juice is basically correct - BUT, with the reduced wear and tear, that mileage figure may well be more - an easy way to tell when to switch is simply oil consumption between changes. As synthetic is thinner, worn rings and valve stems will someday let by more oil into the combustion chamber and therefor lost out the exhaust. If you are down a quart or so every time you change oil it may be prudent to switch to a fossil product. If you change cars in under 50,000 you could probably run 3-in-1 and get away with it.
When I got my first Volvo (1998) a Volvo shop foreman told me to only run synthetic and always let the turbo run down for a minute (as in 60 seconds) after high speed driving. I have adhered to that schedule ever since - the result? That old S70 was approaching 300000 miles and was using 1/2 quart of oil every 3000-3500 miles (still using synthetic). The original turbo was still running great as well. My S80, at 100000 is not using a measurable amount of oil either.
mt6127 is correct (as always) but heis answer requires a bit if careful reading. "but notes synthetic in a 0W30 or 0W40 weight can be used where the car is driven under hard conditions (ie extreme temps, towing trailers etc)."
, Traditionally auto maker include what most of us would call gentle conditions under the hard condition category.. Just firing up a cold engine and running down the road a mile to get some smokes and cokes and home again is actually rather rough on a car. The engine - and hence the oil- does not heat up as moisture tends to collect in the oil. Moisture is a containment and reduce the effectiveness of the oil and can increase sediment.. Syn oils are more free flowing when cold and so there is improved lubrication in those critical first few minute. Stop and go driving (just around town or city) is also cited as hard driving, you put a lot more revs on an engine per mile in city traffic than in top gear on the highway. Also many (most?) Volvos are turbos - heat goes up in turbo, that's justa fact of life. So there's your "extreme temp" caution.
Dino lube has improved over the years (well, the lube is the same but the additives have improved the brew) but synthetic is stll a better product because as the regular oil has improved so has the synthetic - in both cases the stuff in the bottle is way better than what you poured in 1977 or so. Most people here are younger than me ( OK, most people on the planet are younger than me) and don't remember when Mobil 1 was introduced. Most fleet vehicles were quick to see the advantages and switched, BTW. ). All that damage to the oil naturally decreases it's ability to protect metal parts as it ages, synthetics degrade more slowly however so as we approach "the limit" (whatever you may choose to make it) your engine will have better protection against wear, sludge build up if synthetic is in the crankcase.
A few additions to mt6127's answer- Yes, an ouil change of synthetic will cost more - but, if you keep the vehicle a long, long time, then your car will likely reap cash savings as your engine lasts longer. As to high mileage, the recomendation to swith back to dino juice is basically correct - BUT, with the reduced wear and tear, that mileage figure may well be more - an easy way to tell when to switch is simply oil consumption between changes. As synthetic is thinner, worn rings and valve stems will someday let by more oil into the combustion chamber and therefor lost out the exhaust. If you are down a quart or so every time you change oil it may be prudent to switch to a fossil product. If you change cars in under 50,000 you could probably run 3-in-1 and get away with it.
When I got my first Volvo (1998) a Volvo shop foreman told me to only run synthetic and always let the turbo run down for a minute (as in 60 seconds) after high speed driving. I have adhered to that schedule ever since - the result? That old S70 was approaching 300000 miles and was using 1/2 quart of oil every 3000-3500 miles (still using synthetic). The original turbo was still running great as well. My S80, at 100000 is not using a measurable amount of oil either.
#7
Although I joined this forum about the same time as Swedespeed, today I quit the latter due to the ever present "trolls" whose mission appears to be nothing more than inappropriate remarks. Here I find civility and a focused interest on helping Volvo owners with whatever concerns they bring to the forum.
#8
I'm not on SS but I was curious. It was easy to find you since you have the same handle there. Are they trolls for calling you out on the wrong info you posted? You handled it really well.
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=610867
https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=610867
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