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FANTASTIC POST!

One thing I would add to cars with tire pressure sensors: The valve stem is soft aluminum. Tell the guy who puts your tires on to not torque the valve core too tight. Too much force and the stem will strip the threads or split out the side and leak. It's also best to only use plastic stem caps to avoid corrosion.

 

Not all spark plugs are due every 60k miles. Check the owner's manual and replace according to the maintenance interval. Also, OEM plugs should not use anti-seize. Anti-seize is for black oxide plugs.

The air filter housing on a P2 can easily be assembled in the car with a screwdriver to pop the tabs in place.

And if you break the brittle plastic hose on the PCV nipple, order one from an XC90 T6.

 

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I just said to change them according to the maintenance schedule.

If someone decided to ignore torque values and over torque the plugs, then sure, they might be tough. But if you put them in and torque them to spec, anti-seize should not be used on plated plugs.

 

I use aluminum paste anti-seize on my plugs. Spark plug threads are not a super-exact fit and leave a slight gap. Some of the additives that come in gasoline (and some that people add themselves) tend to penetrate into the threads and turn into varnish (or concrete). After several years the plug is effectively glued into place like thread-locker. The anti-seize paste seems to fill the void and seal out the additives. It may not always cause a problem, but I do it as a result of some bad past experiences I don't want to repeat.

 

You can over torque them by using the "give them about an extra 1/3 turn" method instead of the proper torque spec.

The fact is, plated plugs torqued properly should not use anti-seize. Black oxide plugs do need it.

 

This sounds like one of those never-ending arguments. People simply need to use best judgment.
I feel strongly that a thread should never be relied on to provide FRICTION, only the force on another friction bearing surface. This applies to all nuts and bolts, fasteners, lug nuts and anything with machine threads. I lubricate all threads with either grease or paste. Ensure that the washer, lock washer, bolt head or nut face can land on a clean surface so it can provide the friction. People do tend to over-tighten things. I prefer to think ahead to when I have to take it apart next time.

 

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That's great. I'm just posting the recommendations of the manufacturer, including the manufacturers of aftermarket spark plugs that are plated.

The correct way is to install them dry and torque them to the proper spec. They won't give you a problem taking them back out if you do the job correctly.

And there are other things I disagree with above. I have seen plenty of cheap aftermarket coils fail. And there is no need to remove the whole air box to properly fit the lid.