Port/Polish
#1
Port/Polish
So how many if any ofyou guys have ported and polished the intake manifold?
Would it be worth doing? What do you think the gains would be? Loose lower end gain upper end? Or vice versa?
I knew of someone making tubular intake manifolds a while back over in Sweden I believe. I might be wrong on that. But I haven't seen anything really. Other then the manifold that VMS sells, but there isn't much info about it.
Can some one elaborate on VMS's product?
Would it be worth doing? What do you think the gains would be? Loose lower end gain upper end? Or vice versa?
I knew of someone making tubular intake manifolds a while back over in Sweden I believe. I might be wrong on that. But I haven't seen anything really. Other then the manifold that VMS sells, but there isn't much info about it.
Can some one elaborate on VMS's product?
#4
RE: Port/Polish
I think porting refers to smoothing or actually changing the size or shape of the intake and exhaust ports on the head(s) of a car. Polishing is just that, smoothing any rough surface on intakes or exhaust manifolds to improve air flow. If you port an engine, best let someone do it who knows what they are doing and has access to a flow bench. You can really screw up a head if you dont get the intake and exhaust matched with what is happening in the combustion chamber. Polishing on the other hand is much less exacting and can be done by anyone with a Dremel and the proper bits.BJ
#5
#6
RE: Port/Polish
Never done it on a Volvo. Have had head ported on a Mazda 626GT and have polished both intake and exhaust manifolds on same car . Two results car picked up 10 hp on dyno and ran much smoother.Car was turboed so I assume same results possible on other vehicles.Sorry, did not mean to sound condescending on other post. BJ
#7
#8
RE: Port/Polish
usually port/polish is done on n/a engines, because there is no turbocharger to force the air into the intake manifold and force it out of the exhaust.
my father told me he did it in Ukraine long time ago on n/a engine, he said you can feel it a little bit, not that much, but I think it's worth it. pretty cool experience, if u do yourself.
Oleg
my father told me he did it in Ukraine long time ago on n/a engine, he said you can feel it a little bit, not that much, but I think it's worth it. pretty cool experience, if u do yourself.
Oleg
#10
#12
RE: Port/Polish
Well, I'll be seeing if I screwed stuff up or not, as I'm just finishing the build of my motor. I gasket matched and Ported and Polished myself. The Head, Intake, as well as new R exhaust manifold. Here's a link to some photos if you care to look. ; http://rides.webshots.com/album/563883893OGxoym
August 8th, I'm taking everything up to IPD for them to do a swap and add their stage III kit. I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm keeping a photo record of the project at the site I left you, so it will be updated a lot shortly during the week of August 11 - 18, 2008.
August 8th, I'm taking everything up to IPD for them to do a swap and add their stage III kit. I'll let you know how it turns out. I'm keeping a photo record of the project at the site I left you, so it will be updated a lot shortly during the week of August 11 - 18, 2008.
#13
wow it seems like it felt faster, seemed smoother......where are the dyno charts! seat of the pants dyno is never an accurate or even close.....rant off.
You did not mess up your motor. It looks like you did a good job. Port matching is always a good thing. In a factory produced motor there is always mismatched parts that is just the nature of mass production. Any time i have a motor apart i always match port everything. I also blend the valve seats into the head also. Just little things to clean up the factory flaws. I call this cleaning up the head not porting.
There is a fine line with porting though. If you just take a die grinder and a flap wheel and clean up the factory flaws and clasting marks to smooth everything out. The key is DO NOT CHANGE THE SHAPE of the port unless you know what you are doing and have the proper equipment to measure flow. Then that is always a good thing. Now if you go hog wild with a grinder and think bigger is better then you will probably loose power.
Now i do not build turbo motors so i cannot tell you how much difference it will make on a turbo. But with a NA engine it can make a huge difference or you can kill the power. The key to porting is you haft to match the flow rate of the ports and keep the velocity as high as possible to the cams and rpm range you are working the motor. IE if you take the heads off a nascar motor and bolt them to you truck motor you will have a dog of a truck. The heads made 750hp on the nascar but make 200 on the stock truck...why.The reason is the heads are ported to work with the whole package. You build the head to the motor not drop a head on a motor and expect more hp. we can get into cam timing, Velocity supercharging, Overlap, Duration, Lift, Flame front speed.......so on and so on. But this at all NA motor stuff to make the motor more efficient
So with a turbo i would expect that there would be a smaller difference because air is forced into the motor not drawn into it. Maybe some of the turbo guys can jump in here. What I would expect would be to make slightly more power at lower boost levels, Unless you are really pushing the limits I would guess that a stock head will do fine for most builds although a good port match is always a good thing.
You did not mess up your motor. It looks like you did a good job. Port matching is always a good thing. In a factory produced motor there is always mismatched parts that is just the nature of mass production. Any time i have a motor apart i always match port everything. I also blend the valve seats into the head also. Just little things to clean up the factory flaws. I call this cleaning up the head not porting.
There is a fine line with porting though. If you just take a die grinder and a flap wheel and clean up the factory flaws and clasting marks to smooth everything out. The key is DO NOT CHANGE THE SHAPE of the port unless you know what you are doing and have the proper equipment to measure flow. Then that is always a good thing. Now if you go hog wild with a grinder and think bigger is better then you will probably loose power.
Now i do not build turbo motors so i cannot tell you how much difference it will make on a turbo. But with a NA engine it can make a huge difference or you can kill the power. The key to porting is you haft to match the flow rate of the ports and keep the velocity as high as possible to the cams and rpm range you are working the motor. IE if you take the heads off a nascar motor and bolt them to you truck motor you will have a dog of a truck. The heads made 750hp on the nascar but make 200 on the stock truck...why.The reason is the heads are ported to work with the whole package. You build the head to the motor not drop a head on a motor and expect more hp. we can get into cam timing, Velocity supercharging, Overlap, Duration, Lift, Flame front speed.......so on and so on. But this at all NA motor stuff to make the motor more efficient
So with a turbo i would expect that there would be a smaller difference because air is forced into the motor not drawn into it. Maybe some of the turbo guys can jump in here. What I would expect would be to make slightly more power at lower boost levels, Unless you are really pushing the limits I would guess that a stock head will do fine for most builds although a good port match is always a good thing.
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