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Bringing the dead back to life.

  #1  
Old 02-23-2019, 08:36 PM
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Default Bringing the dead back to life.

Someone just gave me a 1985 245 that has been sitting in the mud since 2010. One owner car purchased new and part of an estate. Clear coat is about gone. 102 k mi showing on the clock, owed by a mechanical engineer. It's got to be moved and a chain saw will be involved. Tree is blocking hood. No idea if engine is free.
It's an automatic.
The plastic lenses on all four corners have crumbled, body is straight with minimal rust, interior seems good. Good source for lenses?
I had a 242 and a P1800, and was familiar at one time with bobby bosch's injection systems.
Is there a post to go to that has a to do list for this sort of joy? An easy way to free up possibly frozen- locked parking brakes? Better sources for calipers and master cyl? I am planning on dropping the fuel tank for inspection, changing differential, trans and cooling system fluids. Any favorites for radiator juice? A flush of the brake fluid, lots of loose juice on the door latches. Timing belt, pulleys, and water pump need to be looked at. Can a water pump be redone if you don't have your own bridgeport? I know of a cheap CNC for sale if you have about 12 strong backs.
I just finished a different make that had sat since 01. Somebody is getting a nice ride. Only so much garage space.
Is a factory manual a must, or are the schematics in haynes et al sufficient for electrical gremlin hunting?
 
  #2  
Old 02-25-2019, 04:55 PM
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Parts are still available - eBay, Amazon and my usual list of web stores include FCP Euro, EEuro Parts, IPD USA, Tasca Parts (dealer), Rock Auto and a few others.

Assume you will start by rotating the crank by hand - its not an interference engine so no risk of a timing belt fail but you'd want to see if it is locked. Drain the oil to see if there's anything unusual then refill. You probably have shellac in the gas tank so drain and put in fresh gas before test starting. The to do list really is short, refresh anything that isn't metal :-) for your brakes you need to start with pulling off the rotors and testing to see if pressing the pedal moves the calipers. weak link may be the rubber hoses to the wheels. then work the brakes to see if you see any leaks = lines, calipers, master etc. Don't know what's complex about the water pump other than its part of your timing belt R+R. Simply unbolt, clean the block surface and install with a new gasket should be it. For the radiator fluid, the green stuff is aluminum friendly, avoid Dexcool orange. Do a fresh water flush, don't bother with cleaning agents that can do more harm than good. Consider doing the t-stat and temp sensor when doing the water pump as well as the hoses.

After that you will want to replace plugs/wires/rotor/cap to baseline the ignition. I'd also inspect all the vacuum hoses as the fun part will be working with the FI system. Not sure if its a K-Jet like my 84 Audi had or similar but its also not uncommon for the o-rings on the injectors to harden up so you may want to replace those as well. Last will be to sort out the intake path - making sure the vacuum lines are intact and there's no rips or cracks in the boot going to the air flow sensor.

Check out Volvotips.com for an online copy of a 240 service manual.
 
  #3  
Old 02-25-2019, 07:38 PM
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Default draining

Thank you.
 
  #4  
Old 03-01-2019, 12:10 AM
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Drained the fuel tank. Curse the people that dreamed up ethanol. Nasty gook. As luck would have it there is a fuel tank drain on this model.Turns out its a nov 1987 build. Forgot to put on gloves and the varnish stink took two lemon washes to get out of my skin.
After draining tank rinsed about a gallon more . Closed up drain hole and left tank sitting with 3 gallons and a half can of sea foam. Will drain in a day or two.
Oil and fuel filters tomorrow, I usually go with wix or hastings. Spray lube for the cylinders. Have to return battery or just get new pos cable.
Tags on it expired in 02 and I want to hear it run before I put tune up money in it. The first start is best done with multiple fire extinguishers in hand, outside, away from buildings.
Clock says 102 k and interior supports that.
 
  #5  
Old 03-14-2019, 07:21 PM
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Default further

I thought that there was condensation on the bottom of the tank. In several spots. Swiss cheese tank. Pulled the pump and sending unit from the tank. Looked like it had been in a backed up septic tank.
Have a spare tank on parts car. Pump is also kazooied . Is there a qualitative difference on in tank pumps? Bosch is 3x delphi.
 
  #6  
Old 03-16-2019, 06:41 PM
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Default $#%&*( rodents.

When replacing tank with tank from parts car used a gasket sealant product for $12 that was fuel resistant on the o ring between the fuel filler and the tank. Put in new cap, rotor wires and battery. New fuel filter, Changed oil, new oil filter, used dino oil. Dropped a wrench while tightening battery.
That was a great bit of luck

When removing the bottom plastic spoiler I found a huge rodents nest, waiting to burst into flames.
Also found the wrench. Shop vac time.

Its hitting on maybe one cylinder, I may have some non functioning injectors. Or possibly clogged injectors.
Any clever ideas on how to get a very stuck fuel line apart? I need to look at the injectors. Yes I'm using line wrenches. Threw a bunch of PB blaster on it and will let it soak overnight. Rattle it with an air chisel and a blunt point to get it to soak in?
Can I put 12 volts to an injector to see if it will open?
 
  #7  
Old 03-16-2019, 08:36 PM
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Will injectors from a 89 240 work in a 87 240? Grabbed the fuel railout of the 89, and it died due to a bad fuel pump.
 
  #8  
Old 03-16-2019, 11:26 PM
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Is there an off the shelf t that can be put in front of the FPR and a schrader valve installed?
 
  #9  
Old 03-16-2019, 11:30 PM
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Has anyone drilled and tapped the fuel rail so that a schrader valve like this one (https://www.cjponyparts.com/1986-200...-for-fuel-line) can be installed to check fuel pressure. You pull the rail anyway to change out injectors or seals.
 

Last edited by Zombi; 03-16-2019 at 11:31 PM. Reason: spelling
  #10  
Old 03-17-2019, 01:15 PM
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why do you think you need to replace your injectors? One option is to have your existing injectors cleaned - google "fuel injector cleaning service" for a shop near you. Not sure if you have mechanical injectors or the solenoid driven type found on the newer models but either way, this is not a common failure part and they can be cleaned to restore a proper spray pattern. Also in terms of measuring fuel pressure - you should be able to measure raw pump pressure back by the fuel filter and if your model has a fuel pressure regulator/damper, measure again up there. I don't think this value is as critical for older cars and there's only a few parts in play.
 
  #11  
Old 03-17-2019, 09:33 PM
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With a new cap wires plugs, and rotor it was maybe hitting on one cylinder, with good compression and fire. Plugs were dry. The car has been dead in a yard for 10 years I was told. Yes I had fuel pressure.
I pulled the fuel rail and injectors on the 87 and there was all sorts of black schmutz there. Ohmed em out but did not apply power to them to observe a spray pattern. Or if it opened.
Grabbed the fuel rail off the 89 parts car. Stan Weiss (Stan Weiss' - Electronic Fuel Injector (EFI) Flow Data Table) put out tables listing the values of various Bosch Injectors. His stuff is copyrighted so I you would put the link in the FAQ? They were hi impedience which I needed and the 89 put out maybe 5% more fuel.
They had been improperly installed in the 89. . They were missing the plastic spacer. The car came with 4 sets of Bosch o rings, protectors and the wrong spacers. All new in the bag. Reused the spacer from the 87, new O rings, Top hats greased everything up. slid it together. encouraged it with a Harley tool.
Fired right up.
Noisy at first for about an hour, then sort of settled in. Took it for a ride on the back streets to see if any of the calipers would freeze up. Rotors were good with just a light coating of rust and the pads were dealer new.
The 89 fuel rail has a male fitting that could be adapted to accept a schrader vale, but that isn't needed right now..
Will grab some interior parts from the 89 to deal with mice chewed panels and then sell it to a guy who deals volvo spares.
 
  #12  
Old 03-19-2019, 02:29 PM
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well done! thanks for sharing.
 
  #13  
Old 03-19-2019, 07:04 PM
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Default My 940 na turbo swap keeps flooding

Why is my 940 na wagon leep flooding and will not start
 
  #14  
Old 03-19-2019, 11:00 PM
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Default why

what parts from what years were swapped? what diagnostics have you performed?
 
  #15  
Old 03-20-2019, 04:20 PM
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Default 940 still flooding

Mods
94 940 computers
Stock turbo injectors with the resistor pack
turbo mass air
740 turbo and intercooler
Im getting spark and fuel obviously lol alot of
Pulled the injectors to see if there leaking they primed up and were not leaking did have anyone to crank it while i see what it dose soon as i put it back in and try to start it just dumps gas out the exhaust pipe i even went back to na computers to see if the would change anything and it didn't if i clean out the cylinders by taking the plugs out and installing them back in without the injectors plugged in itll fire up until the gas is gone out the intake im dead in the water
 
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