Buying '98 S70, need advice
#1
06-17-2019, 12:22 PM
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Buying '98 S70, need advice
Hi,
New to this site. I'm looking at a S70 2.5 SE, looks likes its in great shape with one owner who hasn't driven it much, if at all, in the last few years.
1) How do I get a Vancouver Volvo mechanic to look at it? Can anyone recommend one?
2) Its got 175,000 ks with no major work done on it, so it will need timing belt replaced? And ...?
3) Haven't been able to drive it yet so I don't know if it has enough power? While I don't need a lot I also don't want a slug.
4) Should I wait for a S70 turbo and are they reliable?
5) Am I posting in the right forum?
Need advice!
New to this site. I'm looking at a S70 2.5 SE, looks likes its in great shape with one owner who hasn't driven it much, if at all, in the last few years.
1) How do I get a Vancouver Volvo mechanic to look at it? Can anyone recommend one?
2) Its got 175,000 ks with no major work done on it, so it will need timing belt replaced? And ...?
3) Haven't been able to drive it yet so I don't know if it has enough power? While I don't need a lot I also don't want a slug.
4) Should I wait for a S70 turbo and are they reliable?
5) Am I posting in the right forum?
Need advice!
#2
06-17-2019, 12:49 PM
98s are essential the best year of the Volvo 850. The timing belt should be done at 7 years / 70K miles (99+ moved to the 10 year / 110K interval. The 98 does not have the VVT gear so doing the timing belt is pretty easy. The Aisin 4 speed auto is very reliable (same tranny as many Toyotas). Doing the brakes (not counting fixing worn ebrake shoes) are also very easy. The one thing to worry about is a clogged PCV system which can turn the engine into a bleeder if not attended to. Simple test is to put a latex "surgeons glove" over the oil fill (cap off of course) and start the car. If the glove inflates, you have positive crankcase pressure, usually due to a clogged PCV system. That's a $600 repair as the intake manifold has to lift out of place to access the oil separator and hoses and the tech should rod out the ports into the block to degunk. Even better is to drop the oil pan and clean from there up.
The NA motors are also very reliable - but ultimately it comes down to how well maintained. You will likely have some rubber suspension parts to inspect - control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, end links, delta link bushings in the rear, strut mounts are all things that can make the suspension thump over bumps so best to listen during the test drive.
The NA motors are also very reliable - but ultimately it comes down to how well maintained. You will likely have some rubber suspension parts to inspect - control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, end links, delta link bushings in the rear, strut mounts are all things that can make the suspension thump over bumps so best to listen during the test drive.
#3
06-17-2019, 02:58 PM
Join Date: Jun 2019
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The 850?
Hi,
Thx for the info. I'm looking at a s70 and you reply that 98 is the best year for a 850? Are you suggesting I buy an 850 instead?
Thx for the info. I'm looking at a s70 and you reply that 98 is the best year for a 850? Are you suggesting I buy an 850 instead?
98s are essential the best year of the Volvo 850. The timing belt should be done at 7 years / 70K miles (99+ moved to the 10 year / 110K interval. The 98 does not have the VVT gear so doing the timing belt is pretty easy. The Aisin 4 speed auto is very reliable (same tranny as many Toyotas). Doing the brakes (not counting fixing worn ebrake shoes) are also very easy. The one thing to worry about is a clogged PCV system which can turn the engine into a bleeder if not attended to. Simple test is to put a latex "surgeons glove" over the oil fill (cap off of course) and start the car. If the glove inflates, you have positive crankcase pressure, usually due to a clogged PCV system. That's a $600 repair as the intake manifold has to lift out of place to access the oil separator and hoses and the tech should rod out the ports into the block to degunk. Even better is to drop the oil pan and clean from there up.
The NA motors are also very reliable - but ultimately it comes down to how well maintained. You will likely have some rubber suspension parts to inspect - control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, end links, delta link bushings in the rear, strut mounts are all things that can make the suspension thump over bumps so best to listen during the test drive.
The NA motors are also very reliable - but ultimately it comes down to how well maintained. You will likely have some rubber suspension parts to inspect - control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, end links, delta link bushings in the rear, strut mounts are all things that can make the suspension thump over bumps so best to listen during the test drive.
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