"As to causes for oil leaks - the first thing to look for is positive PCV pressure - this can happen when the positive crankcase ventilation system clogs up. Normally the blow by gasses are pushed out of of the engine block through the PCV hoses, into an oil separator to return the oil to the engine and then the gas vents back into the intake. When that clogs up, the pressure builds up in the crank case and can push oil through normally healthy seals or even push the seals out of place. There's two quick tests for positive crankcase pressure - 1) with the engine running, pull the dip stick - did any whistling stop? is there any smoke coming out of the dip stick port?" answer: very faint, barely visible.

2) "with the engine running at idle, pop off the oil fill cap and place a latex glove over the top (ie a surgeon's glove). If the glove inflates, you have positive pressure in the crank case and need to service the PCV system. If the glove sucks in or puffs in and out, your system is normal". answer: we ( me and a person who sometimes works on cars for a hobby, who i know strictly platonically) did not agree on that. He thinks there is no issue, i think there is one. I am having problems attaching the video and can send to you in a separate email.

We think there is a PCV issue but it's not clogged. Maybe 60-70%?

Regarding the oils, I did get the Penzoil a few days ago but the store I got it from does not have the full synthetic 10w/30 with softeners, only retailer I know if who has it is Walmart (like you said) and that takes 2 days to get and I could not get a refund since i do not think I got a receipt, so the Valvoline partial synthetic 10w/30 with softeners it is. I was told today it is partial synthetic. Had i known all of this before I got the oil, i would have gone straight to wal mart.

I do not think the Volvo dealers were putting any oils with any seal softeners in my car before I switched. I do not know about the other mechanics. One volvo dealer told me that they changed the oil with Castrol 5w/30 partial synthetic and softened the seals separately with a volvo approved item, but not sure I buy that story about the latter.

If the video does not attach then provide me with your email address and I will forward it to you so you can give me your opinion.

 

Oh and by the way, the mechanic who told me I needed a new PCV system and that it would take a whole day of labor to replace it, did not perform the tests the way you said they were supposed to be performed. He opened the oil filler cap with the engine off and said there was no pressure (Not the dip stick). So mechanics here do not know how to do a PCV test OR they want me to be as stupid as they are (I am very used to this type of thing, I dealt with stupid and malicious deceptive attorneys in my divorce and it was all started by stupid dangerous females). I hate this city!

 

Also the hobbiest who is assisting me with all of this since he has worked on cars, is saying I need to keep asking you questions and agrees that you have been very helpful. I don't know cars and while yes, I could change my own oil, i do not want to. So please continue to assist.

He changed the oil this am and I was there talk with him through this process and he noticed a few things and I have some questions.

We didn't understand why there was that much sludge on the bottom of the filter housing. He did clean that up. See photos. I didn't understand why the oil was so dark. See photo of oil in clear container. The oil was allegedly changed by Guy's Automotive on 9/12/2019 at 120,021 miles. The car now has 120,187 miles. It's been 3 weeks and 166 miles and oil can get that dark that fast, or was it never changed, or could it be something else? I do not understand. I am the original owner and I have ALWAYS changed my oil at recommended intervals, and sometimes before I was supposed to (when they would let me). There could be other possibilities but please give me some input and guidance.

Also the coolant level, I noticed, a few days ago, seemed low. Raz at Briskers said no, it should have been filled to the max line when the last oil change was done. See photos. Please advise me on how to take care of this since Guy's Automotive did not. Do I just go get some "Volvo Genuine Coolant/Antifreeze only (a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze)"? Guy's Auto never told me to take care of this on my own.

FYI - I have spent $2000-$2500 maintaining the car annually, with the exception of the last 2 years where I just changed oil regularly, new battery, 2 tires, brakes and rotors and it did not come out to that much. I had to go back through all of my recent invoices, and some very old American Express bills a while back ago since 2 Volvo dealerships told me they didn't have my service records (Bergeron in Metairie and Park Place in Dallas).

Attached are photos PLEASE ADVISE

 

The oil catch pan was left off over the weekend so I could drive the car and watch the leak. It is back on. The oil loss seems a little less to my eye, but it's hard to tell as maybe since the pan catching the oil underneath was cleaned, normal flows just not showing up yet.

1. Is the timing belt (and the camseals or whatever it is called that drive the timing belt) supposed to have any oil or residue on it? If so, what is the difference between a normal amount of residue and an actual oil leak? I have read that all internal (moving) parts of the engine need to be lubricated by the engine oil and that this is normal. There is no leak coming from the timing belt cover or on top of it (like splatters). The leak is coming from the center of the engine, not the passenger side where the timing belt cover and cam seals are, and i don't understand how it could travel that far, if it is coming from that.

2. So, How can i be sure that it is really the camseals that are causing oil to drip underneath the car? I read online the symptoms I should be seeing are not the symptoms that I am seeing. I have no problems starting the car, no oil behind the timing cover, no lower than normal engine oil levels, no smoke from engine, no warning lights. Are these symptoms correct?

I do not want to pay to fix a car problem that I do not have, nor can I afford to throw money away like that. I know I have an oil leak I just am not convinced I know where the problem is coming from.

Please assist.

 

As I recall from the 850Turbo there's a breather tube that goes from the PCV up to the center top of the engine - not uncommon for the 850s with a clogged PCV system to get oil on top of the cam cover. If you pull off the plastic cover over the tops of the spark plugs, see if you have any oil sitting up there. likely source would be the seal around the oil fill cap or the breather tube.

 

It's a 2004 XC90 2.5Lengine 2WD. There is no oil on top of the cover that covers the timing belt and what I have been told are the cam seals that drive them.

The PCV test was done as you told me to have done and while I think it's clogging and in need of service at some point soon (so long as I get a fair price for labor and parts and I understand it takes 3-4 hours and not quoted a whole day of labor), I do not think that is actually causing the leak as I think it passed the test. I would attach the video if I could so I could get a confirmation of a yay or nay.

Please continue to assist.

 

Note I was referring to the top cover over the spark plugs/wires/coils that's held down by a bunch of torx screws can get oil under it (ie the part that says Volvo) and should be checked. The timing belt cover is the part that is facing the passenger wheel well that slides up to remove. My only suggestion when you decide to service the PCV system is to go with the complete kit of hoses, not just the oil separator, particularly if you plan on keeping the car for a long time..

Example: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...s60turbopcvkit for parts and here's what the tech will be doing:


Just to give you an idea of what's involved.

 

After the oil change was done on Saturday, the oil catch pan was left OFF. It has never been left off, but it was to identify location of leak since no mechanic around here so far, seems to be able to do this. It looks like the leak is in the center of the engine, closer to the front, off a little to the driver's side. I saw the video and I saw that the PCV system looks like it's in the center of the engine. This leak is off to the right a little.

I was told by mechanic #4 that the vacuum line on top of the engine caused the PCV system to clog up (but it is not brittle). Vacuum line looks ok to me, but since I am not a mechanic, I do not know. The reality is ... i understand it's really the age and mileage of the car that has caused this PCV clogging. I am just not sure the leak is coming from the PCV system. Yes I understand it should be serviced soon, but I have yet to receive a written quote and a fair price for a new PCV system and I have been to 5 mechanics!

The test was done, like you said to do it, and I would like to attach the video because the surgeon's glove does not puff out - it vibrates - it looks weak, but not clogged. If someone experienced, like you, can look at it and say - "yes that's clogged" then likely that is where the leak is coming from. I can't attach videos on here but I can email it.

I have also complained about a strange rattling noise after the car is started and when it is in slow motion after that, but the mechanics either don't hear it or know what it is. This has been going on for maybe 2 years. One mechanic said that was "from the turbo", no kidding. I would like to know what is causing that.

I really don't know why these mechanics here are giving me such a hard time, because I am not "in the loop" of the social BS gossip that goes on around in this disgusting city spread around by a few delusional men and some nasty females. If they were professional, they would see I am there to get my car serviced, get a problem diagnosed, have some consultation and a fair written quote.

If the PCV system is NOT clogged, I would rather get it serviced in a city that functions normally, and/or where I have had no problems (and there are many of them) but if I have to get it done here, I will. Maybe there is a professional mechanic around here that does not want to be part of a corrupt rumor-filled conspiratorial super circus, and is in the business of diagnosing problems and fixing them. Idk!!!!

I did watch the video and I have a few questions: if I get it done here, do I need to tell the mechanic that he needs to clean the throttle, clean any oil residue, and replace the fuel injector seals as part of the service, or should that be part of what they are supposed to be doing? I did not see in the video that any hoses were replaced. He did mention something about a house being longer (so I assume that one was replaced) and wrapping it with electrical tape. What hoses are you saying that they should replace? The video was not clear about that.

 

when the tech lifts the intake manifold out of the way, the fuel rail goes with it - so they will be popping the injectors out. The seals are small o-rings that go around the base of the injector. Given your car is 15 years old, I'd expect them to replace anything rubber. A seal kit goes for about $5 so that's the right thing to do. They may also consider replacing the intake manifold gasket just to ensure they don't create an air leak there as well.

As to cleaning the intake - as I noted the oil separator's job is to take the oil that is part of the crankcase gasses and send the "air" back to the intake and feed the oil back to the crankcase. If the separator isn't doing its job, some of that oil can get into the intake and dirty up the throttle body etc. Cleaning is just a matter of using a product like CRC MAF cleaner to wash off any oil that may have accumulated. In any case, its worth inspecting to see if any oil residue found its way into the throttle body and if so, clean it.

Can say what hose should or shouldn't be replaced without looking at them. The PCV repair kits do include the most critical hoses and clamps - any other parts can be cleaned and reused.

 

I need some more assistance, please. I drove to Giles Volvo in Lafayette getting the car serviced.

The mechanic said that it is the center cam seals that are leaking (cam seals in the center of the engine, not the cam seals that drive the timing belt). This confirms what we have seen as far as where we saw the leak (center of engine off a little to the driver's side). He said he did take a mirror and show me the oil leak when he put his hand back there. It looks like a leak. It does not look like normal engine oil lubrication.

His recommendation was a throttle cleaning and a PCV hose replacement but not a PCV box replacement and said it was not necessary.

I saw the video and the throttle body cleaning would come with a PCV box replacement. He said that on this model/engine Volvo, replacing the box is not necessary.

Please give me your opinion. I will get it serviced and fixed but want your opinion as I am trying to decide the extent to which I will have this done.

 

Per my request, I just got a quote and they call it an "oil trap box" not a PCV system replacement, and I am being quoted $1180 for that.

So please give me your opinion.

 

Also I did start combing through old invoices. I did not think that my PCV system had ever been replaced, but apparently it was. Bergeron Volvo Replaced my "flame trap box, oil trap, upper hose, cleaned vacuum orifice" in October of 2013 at 82k miles. They also replaced the entire throttle body in November of 2015. I am trying to figure out what I really l need. Do i just need 2 new cam seals or those other things? They said here that the PCV system is weak. Likely Bergeron Volvo may have never even changed it but I am looking at an invoice saying they did and I paid for it. If they lied to me and told me that I needed a front engine mount that i did not need, and then put the wrong one in there, and then they refused to document my complaints about the car vibrating harder than normal after that, then chances are, it would certainly be possible that they never even changed that.

 

More likely the dealer replaced the PCV parts but there could be crud built up inside the block that's restricting the venting. that could make the pcv system "weak"... The flame trap is also called the oil separator - the part itself is about $50 (google "volvo 8692211"), the $1100 quote is to do the whole system - I'm assuming similar to the 850s the intake manifold gets moved to access the hoses. If Bergeron replaced the the oil separator and upper hoses, I'm curious what part #s where listed and what their labor amount was. If they only did the upper parts, then it makes sense to me that you could still have an issue with the lower hoses and a build up of sludge in the block's ports. To really do it right, they may be suggesting dropping the oil pan to really clean from the inside out. This would be something you can ask relative to the quote.

You mentioned cam seals - the seals are on the ends of the cams - behind the timing belt gears on the front and they slide into the head on the drivers side of the engine. Here's a diagram to give you a sense of how the engine is put together

https://www.tascaparts.com/auto-part...at/engine-scat

So if they say you need two new seals that are leaking over where the engine meets the transmission (which I guess you could consider the middle of the mass of metal under the hood) then you are talking the rear cam seals. Its not really a painful fix - the parts are not expensive say $40 for two seals, the timing belt stays on but the intake air box and other parts need to be moved out of the way

 

I was charged $561.58 for those parts and they state it is "flame trap box, oil trap, upper hose, cleaned vacuum orifice".

The parts numbers are as follows: 8692211-9 "oil trap"
1271653-6 "hose"
300677388-8 "hose"
8653339-5 "hose"
1271654-4 "hose"
8692217-6 "hose"
9458534-6 "gasket"
988734-0 "cable tie"
If the box was not changed while they were doing all of that, then I do not know why Bergeron did not take care of that when they did everything else.

They say parts was $561.58 but labor was $137.50 for that particular job. I will see if i can attach a photo.

And as far as the rear cam seals are concerned, they are quoting me $620 for parts and labor to replace both rear cam seals. I recall that Briskers wanted to charge me $200 parts and labor for EACH of the 4 cam seals but I will have to go back and look at that to confirm.

 

Sorry it was not $137.50 for labor it was $375 for labor for the above listed parts. The $137.50 was for the next job that service. Invoice is confusing.

 

 

I also did ask here and now, regarding this PCV service they are quoting to me for $635, which is "parts and labor to perform PCV and throttle cleaning" and they said that they do not drop the oil pan to do this particular service but idk about what Bergeron Volvo did in October of 2013.

They say they do this "PCV & throttle cleaning" a lot and don't have problems with customers coming back and complaining that it wasn't fixed. That's what they said.

 

The service advisor is not happy with me right now because I would not make a decision on the spot and wanted to do some research. She wanted to charge me back for the $148 assessment fee instead of applying it to my $620 + $635 service. But we got that straight. Idk why I did not get any kind of quote on a 120k mile service. I asked for that. I went back and inquired. Getting that quote in New Orleans metro was like pulling teeth. Maybe I will have to drive back here and do some of that, idk. Not sure why I didn't get some pricing on what is due on that here, I told them my timing belt was changed in 2012 at 76k miles, and didn't think that part needed to be done again at the present time.

I have had such a hard time taking care of my Volvo with preventative maintenance and don't know why they have given me such a hard time about that. The last major service allegedly done was at 90k miles by All Star Volvo (invoice says so and I paid for it) but when I was at another dealer in another state, they told me those services were never done but they would "clean it up". So I want to know what I need to have done for 120k miles. Geez Louise nobody should be put through this to own and take care of a car.

 

They want $1045 for parts and labor to replace spark plugs, cabin filter, air filter, fuel filter and brake fluid flush (which I don't think i need because my brakes and rotors were just changed). I don't need an oil change and I don't need a timing belt.

I guess if they take care of my oil leak and clean everything up, I WILL be happy, and I will deal with the rest soon as that looks just WAY WAY too high. Parts for that should be what? $200? How much should labor be?

 

So it is a rear cam seal leak. I like to figure out cause. I understand cam seals can go bad on a car this age, perhaps the cam seals where the timing belt is was done with the timing belt in 2012, as there is reportedly no leak there, nor did i see one.

Can you tell me if the parts and labor to service my PCV system in 2013 was for the actual PCV system? They (Giles) said it's weak and I believe them because I had a feeling about that based on how you told me to test the car.

I didn't understand why my throttle needs a cleaning, he explained they took it out, I guess to look at the PCV system, he said they might as well clean it along with the PCV system but the throttle should be fine. I have NO performance or other issues related to a dirty throttle or PCV system. Just the test that you told me to do, indicates it's weak. They said the same thing. It should not be, if it was really replaced in 2013 at 82k miles. (It only has 120k miles now.) Should it not?

I am in a loaner and they had me sign all sorts of waivers and if I get bugs on the car, they will charge me. (???) So I don't want to put it on the interstate and drive it back to New Orleans while I wait, so I am hanging out here in Lafayette waiting for this to be done. Nice town but I do need to get back soon. It is RIDICULOUS that i had to drive all the way over here to get this done. It really is.

Do not tell me to write to the Attorney General of La., Volvo's Corporate Office already advised me to do that and Jeff Landry is lazy and crooked, and only deferred me back to the people who allegedly caused this other scam (some New Orleans Attorneys), nor would any of them respond, so I am pretty certain they are behind all of this. I guess they were hoping I would not save my invoices when they all plotted this out. Trust me I have seen some scams some of these dirty New Orleans metro attorneys orchestrate! You wouldn't believe!