Worn Rotors - Repair vs. Replace
I've got what seems like should be a normal problem for an older car like mine and I wanted to ask for some advice on how to possibly fix it.
After 125 K miles, the front brake rotors on my car (details below) have been worn through normal contact with the pads. Because the pads don't contact the entire surface of the disc, the center portion of the disc has worn away slightly and left slightly higher ridge (about 2mm) around the edge of the disc. So, although my pads have 4mm remaining only 2mm is really useful - because the ridge is higher than the worn surface, the rotor will contact the the "wear tab" on the pad earlier than it would on a new, unworn disc.
My mechanic recommends replacing the rotors but I once took a pair of warped rotors to Pep Boys and they machined them true for about $40. Is there any reason why a similar solution can't be used to remove the ridge from my old rotors and save me $400 too?
Make: Volvo
Model: S80
Year: 2001
Mileage: 125,000
After 125 K miles, the front brake rotors on my car (details below) have been worn through normal contact with the pads. Because the pads don't contact the entire surface of the disc, the center portion of the disc has worn away slightly and left slightly higher ridge (about 2mm) around the edge of the disc. So, although my pads have 4mm remaining only 2mm is really useful - because the ridge is higher than the worn surface, the rotor will contact the the "wear tab" on the pad earlier than it would on a new, unworn disc.
My mechanic recommends replacing the rotors but I once took a pair of warped rotors to Pep Boys and they machined them true for about $40. Is there any reason why a similar solution can't be used to remove the ridge from my old rotors and save me $400 too?
Make: Volvo
Model: S80
Year: 2001
Mileage: 125,000
Personally I never resurface rotors. Past experience tells me the reduced thickness, even within spec, results is very easy warping and then I am unhappy with the performance. Aftermarket rotors are almost always cheap enough (<$60 at IPD for my S60) that putting new on really doesn't add that much cost and it saves the time of taking them somewhere to get turned. Add in the possibility of getting some doof who doesn't really know what he is doing running the machine adds another plus to the replacement side.
At 125K your rotors don't owe you anything. Buy new but only Volvo parts or equivalent quality. Don't get sucked into slotted or drilled rotors as they offer no benefit for street vehicles.
Also, the secret to a great brake job with new rotors is to clean the mating surface of the hub to shiny metal with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. That way the new rotor runs true.
Also, the secret to a great brake job with new rotors is to clean the mating surface of the hub to shiny metal with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. That way the new rotor runs true.
That would be the best and safest way to repair it. By the way welcome to the forums.
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