Greetings to all Volvo enthusiasts. Last night on my way home from work and entering the highway, my xc90 2013 123k miles started to shake. At first I thought it might be a loose tire because I just had two new mounted on front after a pirelli failure, and what if a few lug nuts were not tightened or had come loose. Because it was sleeting rain and some snow I continued slowly for about 1/2 mile to an exit where the car stalled and I was able to get off the highway and half way down the exit ramp. At that point I couldn't start again and I got the most feared message of "transmission performance low" . So my question to all who more than likely have a good deal of mechanical expertise is; have I done damage to the engine, timing belt etc., by continuing to the exit. I understand that I'll probably need a rebuild of the transmission but if I've done damage to the engine then I'll need to rethink how or if I should think about repairs. Thanks for any thoughts or advice on this matter.

 

In what way could you not start again?
1. Turn key and engine does not spin over? (it just is silent or goes click, meaning battery is weak/dead)
2. Turn key and engine spins over but does not catch and run?

If your battery went weak (due to a charging system problem) - you could get erroneous warnings on the dash and running problems as the battery went dead - what makes you think there is a transmission problem?

The alternator on your engine has a history of the overrun pulley seizing up and loosening the drive gear on the engine - then the alternator stops spinning and does not recharge the battery.

 

The answer is #2 and thanks for taking time to consider my problem. I appreciate it.

 

A transmission problem will not make the engine spin over and not run. Something as simple as being out of gas will. (I've had many cars towed in for no start due to empty gas tanks over the years)

 

Okay thanks, but definitely not out of gas but the tank was 3/4 full. Would the car fail to start if there's a problem with the drive shaft, or if the car gets stuck in gear?

 

The starter will only engage if the shifter is in park (or neutral) and the brake pedal is depressed.

For an engine to run you need compression, spark (at the right time) and fuel (in the right amount). You think you have fuel and there's no common reason to have lost compression on that engine. (no timing belt) I have heard of on the Fomoco/Volvo/Landrover SI6 (but not seen myself) that if a coil melts and shorts out it will blow a fuse and prevent all the coils from working. Check your #10 fuse under the hood - If blown you might have a melted/shorted coil. (and technically if you didn't want to tow the car you could disconnect the melted coil, replace the fuse and drive on 5 cylinders. Would NOT recommend that - the catalytic converters will be destroyed)

 

Those are some very good suggestions. I decided to have a transmission shop diagnose but I'll definitely check out fuse #10 before AAA tows it to the repair shop. It will be good to know if what you're suggesting could be the cause of the engine start failure. What happened with the shaking of the vehicle is anyone's guess until a trained mechanic actually takes a close look at it. Thanks very much for conferring with me.

Bill

 

Don't know what kind of shaking was happening - but it your engine is misfiring - as a coil is possibly failing, the engine will be running rough.

Cv joints when they get really worn can cause a shake in the steering wheel sometimes, usually is worse when accelerating - Usually the right outer wears out first.

 

Hi Hoonk, I don't recall it being just the steering wheel, but maybe all of the car. If it turns out to be a failing coil, then I wonder it the engine's attempts to fire properly would set off a transmission performance alarm. I would be relieved if it turns out to be a coil. The transmission shop won't get to it for at least 5 days. I'll let you know what they find. I'm learning things just by getting feedback, thanks!

 

Sorry I'm still confused why the car would go to a "transmission shop" (specialty shop I'm guessing, such as Ammco or "Bob's transmission") when the car won't start. I would think a Volvo shop would be where the car should go. Unless your "transmission shop" is equipped to solve your no start problem.

 

I think you've convinced me that the problem could very likely be a burnt ignition coil. When I finally stopped the Volvo, I did detect a burnt smell. I'll get back to the car tomorrow evening where I'll check the #10 fuse as you suggested. Before I saw your last post, I had it in my mind based on your posts, that I will more likely have it towed into my mechanic for a diagnosis. I just started with this shop as I've only been in Massachusetts since September. Thanks for helping me think it through.

 

Good day Hoonk... As it turned out, I followed your advice and it did turn out to be the #4 ignition coil that had burnt up along with the fuse. This is what I was told my the mechanic I started to use just recently. Prior to the breakdown, the Volvo was scheduled for a portion of the CAT assemblies to be replaced where it splits from the engine manifolds. After completion the Volvo runs well but I'm getting an engine light that Autozone scan showed failed cat codes P0420 and P0430 on each side. The mechanic suggests CatCleaner and a full tank of premium gas. I had the light come on back in August, thought about adding the cleaner as instructed but the light went out before taking that step. I left it alone. !600 miles from South Florida to Massachussetts and an additional 3k on top of that, so needed to get the problem fixed in order to keep the vehicle legally road worthy. I've read some negative things about this type of additives but Accel Automotive says adding it a long intervals with not do harm? It's great to have some peace of mind to discuss keeping my Volvo safely road worthy and legal. Cosmetically its in fantastic shape, and who can afford to buy anything new? So expensive these day. Thanks for reading through and I trust you thoughts and advice.

 

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