*240 Problems*
*240 Problems*
Just swapped out the bulk of the fuel system (filters, pumps, and sending unit), but am still having problems starting.
*Will start right up with starting spray but will die seconds after*
*Can't seem to hear the pumps when the key is turned in the ignition*
*Car has been sitting for 1+ years*
Thinking the next step is to clean the injectors however am not even sure how to go about that. Is there other common problems recommended to look over with a sitting Volvo?
*Will start right up with starting spray but will die seconds after*
*Can't seem to hear the pumps when the key is turned in the ignition*
*Car has been sitting for 1+ years*
Thinking the next step is to clean the injectors however am not even sure how to go about that. Is there other common problems recommended to look over with a sitting Volvo?
no mo volvo
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 11,289
Likes: 109
From: 37 North on the left coast
which year 240? there's a few different FI systems over the years.
I would determine if you're getting power to the fuel pumps and the injectors. if not, then I'd see if the fuel pump relay is working and if not, why not? is the 25A fuse good thats on the left fender wall near the battery ? that provides power to the whole fuel injection system.
if this is an LH car (1983+), most of them don't power the fuel pumps at all until the engine is cranked and they detect pulses from the hall sensor in the distributor (LH2-2.2) or the crank position sensor (LH2.4 on 1989+). the fact that it runs on starter fluid means you got spark, which means the ICU (ignition controller) is seeing those pulses. the ICU feeds those pulses to the ECU (fuel injection controller), and the ECU in turn switches on the fuel pump relay.
if this is an EARLY 240 (up to 1982), it probably has K-Jetronics and I'm much less adept at troubleshooting these
if I know which year car this is, I can give you a few specific tests to try, using a digital volt meter or test light, and a bit of wire to use as a jumper.
I would determine if you're getting power to the fuel pumps and the injectors. if not, then I'd see if the fuel pump relay is working and if not, why not? is the 25A fuse good thats on the left fender wall near the battery ? that provides power to the whole fuel injection system.
if this is an LH car (1983+), most of them don't power the fuel pumps at all until the engine is cranked and they detect pulses from the hall sensor in the distributor (LH2-2.2) or the crank position sensor (LH2.4 on 1989+). the fact that it runs on starter fluid means you got spark, which means the ICU (ignition controller) is seeing those pulses. the ICU feeds those pulses to the ECU (fuel injection controller), and the ECU in turn switches on the fuel pump relay.
if this is an EARLY 240 (up to 1982), it probably has K-Jetronics and I'm much less adept at troubleshooting these
if I know which year car this is, I can give you a few specific tests to try, using a digital volt meter or test light, and a bit of wire to use as a jumper.
no mo volvo
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 11,289
Likes: 109
From: 37 North on the left coast
ok, 87 is LH2.2, with a 'chrysler' ignition system. my daughter's 240 is a 87 
87 was also the last year of the 'biodegradable wiring' that infects 83-87 Volvos. in particular, be VERY careful with the wire harness that plugs into the injection controller on the right fender just behind the headlight, that harness is no longer made, its plug is fragile.... but you're not having ignition problems if the car starts with starter spray....
yeah, first thing to check is the 25A main fuel system fuse, and the fuel pump relay. This fuse is under the hood, along the left fender. on our car, it was right near the power steering reservoir, but I've also seen it on that relay bar near there. these fuse holders get corroded and stop working well.
The fuel pump relay is a (usually) white relay behind the glovebox, on the harness that goes to the ECU which is mounted near the passenger door hinges behind the side panel of the footwell. this is a double relay, one half switches the power to the ECU and rest of the fuel injection system, and the other half is the actual fuel pump relay.
find this relay, unplug it. use a test light or digital volt meter, and verify there is power on pin 30 relative to a chassis ground (this is always-on power, that comes from that fuse). if you don't see power, go check that fuse holder, I ended up replacing ours with a waterproof marine holder which I also squirted full of silicone electric grease.
if you see power on pin 30, jumper pin 30 to pin 85, and you should hear the fuel pumps come on. if you don't, time to check the fuel pump wiring.
now, put that relay back in. open the hood, disconnect one of the fuel injectors, then switch the car on. use a volt meter or test light, and connect one lead to engine ground and touch the other lead to each of the pins on the FI connector (not at the same time) and one of the pins should be hot (12V)... if no juice here, I suspect the EFI relay is bad.
carefully pry the cover off the fuel pump relay, and plug it back in. observe it carefully, when you turn the key on, one of the relays inside should click 'on'. use a plastic or wood poker, and gently depress the OTHER half of the relay, do you hear the fuel pumps come on? while holding this down and hearing the pumps, crank the car over, does it start? if yes, almost for sure the fuel pump relay is bad.
these relays often fail from old solder joints, if you're handy with a soldering iron, you can reflow the solder, snap the cover back on and be good for another 10 years.
if you DO get a replacement relay, either get a genuine Volvo one, or a Stribel (sold by IPD, FCP, others), the KAE and worse no-name ones are flakier. The Stribel relays are white, and have a logo that looks like a circle with an S in it that has two curved lines through it like )( such that it almost looks like a dollar sign $... Fuel Pump Relay 240 700 900
87 was also the last year of the 'biodegradable wiring' that infects 83-87 Volvos. in particular, be VERY careful with the wire harness that plugs into the injection controller on the right fender just behind the headlight, that harness is no longer made, its plug is fragile.... but you're not having ignition problems if the car starts with starter spray....
yeah, first thing to check is the 25A main fuel system fuse, and the fuel pump relay. This fuse is under the hood, along the left fender. on our car, it was right near the power steering reservoir, but I've also seen it on that relay bar near there. these fuse holders get corroded and stop working well.
The fuel pump relay is a (usually) white relay behind the glovebox, on the harness that goes to the ECU which is mounted near the passenger door hinges behind the side panel of the footwell. this is a double relay, one half switches the power to the ECU and rest of the fuel injection system, and the other half is the actual fuel pump relay.
find this relay, unplug it. use a test light or digital volt meter, and verify there is power on pin 30 relative to a chassis ground (this is always-on power, that comes from that fuse). if you don't see power, go check that fuse holder, I ended up replacing ours with a waterproof marine holder which I also squirted full of silicone electric grease.
if you see power on pin 30, jumper pin 30 to pin 85, and you should hear the fuel pumps come on. if you don't, time to check the fuel pump wiring.
now, put that relay back in. open the hood, disconnect one of the fuel injectors, then switch the car on. use a volt meter or test light, and connect one lead to engine ground and touch the other lead to each of the pins on the FI connector (not at the same time) and one of the pins should be hot (12V)... if no juice here, I suspect the EFI relay is bad.
carefully pry the cover off the fuel pump relay, and plug it back in. observe it carefully, when you turn the key on, one of the relays inside should click 'on'. use a plastic or wood poker, and gently depress the OTHER half of the relay, do you hear the fuel pumps come on? while holding this down and hearing the pumps, crank the car over, does it start? if yes, almost for sure the fuel pump relay is bad.
these relays often fail from old solder joints, if you're handy with a soldering iron, you can reflow the solder, snap the cover back on and be good for another 10 years.
if you DO get a replacement relay, either get a genuine Volvo one, or a Stribel (sold by IPD, FCP, others), the KAE and worse no-name ones are flakier. The Stribel relays are white, and have a logo that looks like a circle with an S in it that has two curved lines through it like )( such that it almost looks like a dollar sign $... Fuel Pump Relay 240 700 900
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AnEskimo
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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Sep 22, 2010 07:28 AM