Thanks for the replies guys. Yeah I was wondering about the used ECU I got from the mechanic for a hundred. I think I may have the TPS adjusted close to right now. Been doing it with the engine off and can hear the faint click right as it starts to move the butterfly so maybe it's working properly. Got the light off and 1-1-1 code unplugged the jumper from the #2 socket (had been leaving it plugged in)and drove home. No light. Woohoo. Drove to work and home no light. Someone up there loves me I just know it lol. Also the temp seems better since the last flush. Been driving around with no heater on and it seems to stay around 10 o'clock. Heater brings it down to around 9:30. Think I'll take the radiator out and have it cleaned anyways. When this thing passes smog it's a party at my place.

 

Glad it is all working out now!!

 

Spoke to soon..light is back on. Got a bonus from work that was unexpected. If you had to gamble would you go for the AMM or the TPS for replacement. The slight misfire at idle tells me AMM...

 

Hard to say I might have to go with the AMM. I have seen many of these cars run with the throttle switch totally disconnected.

 

Had the mechanic here again today. He mentioned a possible bad fuel pressure regulator so he checked the fuel pressure first and said it was good (around 40). His guess was the TPS for the 213 code so he replaced it with a new one. Straightened the idle right out. Now it's idling really good. Took off down the road and you guessed it..light came back on. Pulled the codes with the engine off and key in #2 position and got 113, then 213, in that order. IfI pull the codes with the engine on the third code is 311. The 311 is the speedo that I fried I know that. Question: will the fried speedo cause the C/E light to come on? He mentioned that he'd seen the fuel injector ground on top of the motor next to the fuel rail cause a 113 code. Told me to cut open the rubber sheath and I'd find 4 wires going into one wire. He said to re-crimp all the connections and run a new wire from behind the crimp straight to where the ground bolts..a creating a double ground or at least one good one. I'll try that here in a few. He also tested the in tank fuel pump by disconnecting the wire under the back seat driver side while he had his pressure gauge hooked up and said he was pretty certain the in tank pump was bad (pressure dropped until the engine died). What the hell is causing this 213 code? I'm about to start drinking heavily here...

 

It has to be something in the wiring or ECU.
I doubt the 311 would cause a cell.

 

Ran that ground bypass as mentioned. I had cleared the codes and the light is once again off. Now I'm getting a 232 and a 213 code. Not seeing the 311 but I haven't fixed the speedo yet so I know it's just hiding for the moment. Mechanic said the ECU that he installed was a remanufactured ecu from Volvo.

 

OK cleared the codes again then checked them again. Getting 213, 232, and 113 in that order. Took a little spin around the hood. Light stayed off..for now. When I returned the idle was slightly high. Turned it off then back on and idle went back to normal. What would cause that?

 

The 232 means a vacuum leak somewhere.
The 213 must have something to do with the wiring or ECU you just put a new switch on. so it has to be something else.

 

Uh..according to the code chart a 232 code means -





2-3-2*
Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or too rich at idle
}If too rich: high fuel press., leaking injector
} various driving problems
Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean at idle
Oxygen sensor

 

Yes 232 from the Volvo book actually means Long term fuel trim. Which when you break it down means a vacuum leak somewhere.
Have you sprayed around the intake gasket with the car running checking for a vacuum leak?

 

I sprayed around where the intake bolts up but not ALL around it. Is this a good way to find a vacuum leak? Upon close inspection I can't hear one but I know that doesn't mean much. After a couple more days of driving around it's pretty much the same scenario. Light comes on after a while. Only while idleing. If I'm on the gas at all it never comes on right then. Still getting 213 and now 232 in that order. Seems like a slight miss at idle. Mechanic had claimed that they (volvos) just idle that way. Not buying it. After a short drive when I stop idle will be slightly high. Shut it off and turn it right back on and idle goes back down. ???

 

A vacuum leak anywhere will affect it like that. The best way to find the leak is to use Carb or brake cleaner. When it sucks it in it will either smuther the motor or it will make it idle faster.

 

Thanks for your patience tech..I'm learning alot! Need to get some more carb cleaner and go at it more thoroughly. In the meantime here's some more symptoms - I've figured out how to clear the codes and works every time now. I let all three codes display then push and hold button for 8 seconds (I had previously been only doing 5) and release. Light comes on solid everytime then I press button and hold for 8 more seconds and the C/E light goes off. Stays off for anywhere from a minute to even 15 or 20 minutes but comes back on every time. When it comes back on I recieve 3 codes which are 113, 213, then 232 in that order. I uplugged the AMM with everything off and started it back up. Runs real rough and it's so rich coming out the tailpipe your eyes tear up just standing at the rear of the car. Turn engine and key off, plug AMM back in and it goes back to normal (or it's current state). If I unplug the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator the idle goes up slightly and seems to smooth out. Engine seems to run smoother as well. Hunts a little eventually but for the most part when I plug the fuel pressure regulator back in the slightly rough idle returns (the mechanic said all volvos idle this way but I just can't believe that). Also the O2 sensor thatI bought was not a bosch it seems. They gave me 2 choices andI think the more expensive one was the bosch if I remember correctly. This one has a 2 prong connector and a 1 prong connector with a little boot. The one with the boot is blue. Mechanic said he's only used bosch O2's and theydo not have a blue wire. Could this be my culprit? Unplugging the O2 altogether and restarting the engine seemed to net no different result. It still smells a little fumey out the pipe if you get down there and put your face next to it (fun fun). Thanks Jim

 

The very fact you purchased an O2 sensor with the proper connectors gives you an A+ right there! For my own cars, I just buy the cheapest 3 wire sensor in stock and solder the wires and heat shrink 'em. Try swedishbricks.net There is a lot of good info there and the moderators don't delete answers of people trying to help you. Also, swedespeed.com is quite useful. volvospeed.com too And, turbobricks.com welcomes non-turbo volvo owners. I only mention this as apparently two separate answers of mine have been deleted from this thread. Oh well....out of here!!! Good luck!!

 

Now that you say that I see that your posts are gone. I have read them and they were useful but I cannot see what happened to them.
I hope you weren't implying that I deleted them??

I would not do that. I know how these cars are and how there is so many things that can go wrong with them. I am by no way the best out there I still learn more everyday.

After looking through this topic from 1st to last page if one of the Moderators would have deleted the post I would still be able to see the post and bring it back. But the site is still having problems from time to time that might be what happened to the post.

I will not delete a post if I don't agree with it I leave it because we all have our own opinions and different ways of doing things.

 

So, any ideas on the 232 code? Says Lambda control. This is the 02 right? Still have the 213 and 113 codes plus idle is slightly high after a bit of a drive. Soon as i turn it off and back on idle goes back to normal. Sprayed all around the intake and every vacuum connection I could find and no change in idle...

 

Didn't you test the O2 and it is working correctly?
That might be an issue but not to sure.

 

Did not test the 02. Do I need a meter or sumpin'? I'm thinking it may be wrong and I shoulda splurged for the bosch version. At any rate at least it's consistent now. Runs consistently rich. Figures, gas is now $1.83 a gallon and I have car that's getting around 5 mpg.

It drives great when under load. Idles good albeit a bit rough and shaky. Never stalls. Seems like a good misfire in there somewhere but unplugging each injector one by one has no effect on the engine. Smells really rich coming out of the pipe. Obviously it's one of the many emissions or idle control components but it seems I'll have to throw down another wad of cash to find out which one...

 

Funny, as mentioned earlier in this thread after a short drive when I stop the idle will be a bit high. At this point the slight misfire seems to be gone..or at least a bit smoother. Also, if I pull the codes while that high idle is happening the 113 code is not there. Just a 213 and 311 (speedo). Doesn't smell as rich coming out of the tailpipe as well. As soon as I shut it off and crank it back up, not only does the idle return to normal but the 113 code comes back. Thinking it's not the 02 or an injector. Has anyone ever heard of the non-bosch type 02's causing these problems? I also unplugged the idle motor while it was running and the idle surged up and down. Plugged it back in and it went right back to normal. Read somewhere that if you unplugged the AMM and the car starts then the AMM is bad. Anyone know if there's any truth to that? After all this could it just be a bad AMM? The brick wall at the end of the street is starting to look more and more attractive..we may have to meet lol.