113 and 213 codes
That was it. I'm a little miffed at this mechanic for not re-testing for the ECU weeks ago. The one he sold me was bad. And for $100 bucks! Found an '89 at the used parts emporium that had a ECU with the same last 3 numbers. $32 bucks. Bam! No more codes, no more C/E light,no more soot coming out the pipe..running better and mileage doubled at least. Going for the smog re-test tomorrow. Should pass (where's the crossed fingers emoticon?).
On the bright side I could probably apply as a 240 mechanic now...
On the bright side I could probably apply as a 240 mechanic now...
All good, light is off now for days, and unbelieveable how much better and smoother it runs. MPG is way up also. no more fumeage. The only thing now is a slightly high idle after a drive. Like before, as soon as I shut it off and start it back up it goes back to normal. What could that be?
Yes but the aftermarket brand. The mechanic said it was pretty sooted up from running super rich for 5 or 6 weeks and suggest taking a torch to it!? Also said to be careful as it could fry it. Am I looking at getting the bosch one now? Thanks
I have a '90 240 DL with the same issue. (113 code that won't reset.) and running a tad rich. Would you recommend swapping it out first with my other (1993) 240s ECU or could I screw up the borrowed EUC if it's something else in the 90s wiring?
Found a bosch 02 at the used parts emporium. Installed it and it seemed to help. Running super smooth now with the best idle ever on this car since I've had it. Gas mileage is awesome now. High idle is gone too. One problem left that I can see. Smog guy said one of the reasons I failed was the gas tank pressure test. I've installed a new gas cap and pusher pump in the tank. What about the seal for the sending unit? Before I installed the new pusher pump there was one instance where I smelled fuel after filling up. Haven't smelled it again. Could be I didn't get the ring/sending unit sealed but thought it had it all the way tight. Any other ideas of what that could be?
That is possible and very easy to check. Just pop the cover off and see if the ring is turned all the way.
Also maybe before the next test open the fuel cap just before pulling into the place.
Also maybe before the next test open the fuel cap just before pulling into the place.
Ring is turned all the way tight. Don't remember seeing an o-ring or any kind of seal involved with the ring is there one that you know of? Also what does loosening the cap do before the test? Thanks
Halleluja it passed!! Woohoo!!! Time to party lol Tech can't thank you enough for all your help. I know I've been a bit of a nuisance at times and lost my cool here and there but this was a frustrating adventure spanning a couple of months and a couple of grand. But she's running top notch now and I'm pretty darn happy with it. Your an asset to this site which is a valuable rescource!
P.S. any line on a cheap cluster? If you remember I fried the speedo. Thanks Jim
P.S. any line on a cheap cluster? If you remember I fried the speedo. Thanks Jim
Hey Jim,
My car also failed the pressure test. My problem was the Smog shop cap was not sealing to my filler spout. We used some channel lock pliers and rounded it out and BOOM, passed with fly colors.
Glad your car is running better now. You can check in the junkyards for a speedo or check here: http://www.davebarton.com/index.html
Good luck
My car also failed the pressure test. My problem was the Smog shop cap was not sealing to my filler spout. We used some channel lock pliers and rounded it out and BOOM, passed with fly colors.
Glad your car is running better now. You can check in the junkyards for a speedo or check here: http://www.davebarton.com/index.html
Good luck
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mcadek
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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Feb 15, 2015 09:36 AM




