1976 245DL sputters and dies when stopped in Drive or Reverse.
I'm getting frustrated and looking for ideas.
My 1976 245DL is having issues when stopped in drive or reverse.
I just finished rewiring components in the engine (I was having a voltage drop from the power source).
I just replaced the ignition control, distributor cap, spark plugs and wires and repaired several vacuum hoses.
I replaced the top seals on the fuel injectors (the third one in was crushed and causing the car to miss).
I can't figure out why the car (after it's warm), will die when stopped in reverse or drive (I can keep it running if I take the load of the engine/transmission by placing it in neutral or park.

When accelerating past 40, the muffler does make a loud, vibrating noise (I did replace the muffler mounts, still making the noise on occasion).

I have even gone as far as taking it to the Volvo dealer in town to troubleshoot this issue (None of their mechanics are used to working on a Volvo that age).
Do you think it could be the Air Meter Plate (Mass Air Flow Sensor)? What's the best way to check/repair this?

Except for this MAIN issue, the Volvo runs quiet, and sounds and looks good.

Any recommendations that correct the issue are very much appreciated.
Thanks!

 

I trust you verified there are no air leaks before the fuel metering plate (you just put in injector seals) I simply use carb cleaner and spray areas that might leak - intake gasket, injector seals etc. Any ingestion of carb cleaner changes the idle. Did you try "blowing" out the injectors when you had them out to check their spray pattern and try to clean/improve the patterns? That is - lay injectors (connected) on the valve cover, wire fuel pumps to run all the time with a jumper wire, push the air measuring plate up all the way with a bent tool so that the injectors fire - All spray patterns look good? Sometimes the patterns get better and the car runs better after that process (the fuel system may never spray that much under normal driving) Did you replace both the small and large orings on/in the injector holder?

The idle speed is controlled by the amount of air allowed in. (as well as the proper fuel mixture) Are you able to correct the idle problem with the manual idle adjustment? If not the throttle plate may be constricting the air flow too much. An adjustment of the throttle stop screw or a simple cleaning (after you get that #@%& rubber boot off without tearing it) will cure that if it's lack of air related.

If you still have problems have you tried adjusting the fuel mixture with your special 3mm allen wrench? Do you know how to do that? I used to use an exhaust gas analyzer to set the mixture on those - and that machine was used every day many times - do those even still exist? Some cars I would have to lean them out to pass emissions, then adjust them richer to run smoothly.

 

Thanks for the detailed info. I will definitely look at this over the weekend.
I did check for leaks using carb cleaner (that's how I found the leak on the injector). I'm not hearing a change in idle when I spray the cleaner, since the seal was replaced.

I will take a look at the other items you mentioned.

Thanks again.
-Chris

 

You don't have a "carburetor" - and if your trusted mechanic thinks you have one ------ You have K-jetronic fuel injection. Was used by many manufacturers in the 70's. Probably not many people know how to fix them that are still alive!

Don't remove the rubber boot unless absolutely necessary. It will tear. They are still available and don't cost a bunch but - there's no reason to take it off unless you are replacing something big.

I would make sure all the basics are perfect before touching the fuel injection system. All ignition stuff, compression is ok, no air leaks, that kind of thing. After that if the idle is rough the injectors might not be firing properly - as in not spraying the same amount of fuel to each injector at low openings. That's why I suggested laying the injectors on the valve cover and with fuel pumps running push the fuel metering plate up from the bottom with a suitable bent tool and examine the spray pattern of each injector. I'd bet the 4 injectors will have 4 different patterns at a simulated low air volume (plate not pushed up very much) Dribbles, drips, perfect cone, and wild spray in different directions. The goal is a perfect cone. Push the plate up as high as you can - sometimes that "clears" the injectors and produces better spray patterns. Sometimes you have to replace or somehow clean the injectors. Sometimes it's not the injectors - the fuel distributor is the problem. Once you have 4 injectors with good spray patterns - and there's the proper air getting in through the throttle plate - then you can adjust the fuel mixture if needed. Although without a exhaust gas analyzer to be able to tell what and how much you are changing - you will have to rely on your knowledge from adjusting carb mixture and fuel injection systems in the past - to know if what you are adjusting is helping or not.

The fuel mixture adjustment is located down the hole between the boot and the fuel distributor.
Here's a diagram of where the mixture adjustment screw is. It adjusts the angle of the air metering plate with the piston in the fuel distributor. There's no plug/cap over the hole as shown- Volvo never used one. Pictured also is a 3mm allen wrench - a regular T handle wont fit, you have to cut one side of the T off and shorten it to fit in the space available.