1978 Volvo 242 GT No Start After Sitting For Weeks

  #1  
Old 11-24-2018, 09:50 AM
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Default 1978 Volvo 242 GT No Start After Sitting For Weeks

We have NOT began going through the whole car yet the way I like to.

Right now have to deal with it in it's 'low maintenance' condition.

Down the road I will do the dropping the gas tank/cleaning it out, replacing all fuel filters thing.

What is causing the no start? I think the fuel system is getting gummed up. Runs on Quickstart. So ignition is okay.
 

Last edited by Classic Volvo Owner; 11-24-2018 at 02:31 PM.
  #2  
Old 11-24-2018, 01:40 PM
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fuel pump running when you crank it over ?
 
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Old 11-24-2018, 02:37 PM
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Pierce

I don't know..I just helping dad by phone right now.

It's not here for me to work on.

Could you tell me what all is involved with that era fuel injection?

A mechanic is going o get it started for him this time.

I keep telling him to start it more often. Once a week. Drive it around some but it sits and gets this way.

How else can we prevent this in the future?
 
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Old 11-24-2018, 02:50 PM
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pretty sure that year uses CIS-E aka KE-Jetronic injectin, instead of the LH electronic injection used from 82 or 83 and on.

CIS has a fuel distributor which has a mechanical air-flow meter, more air == more fuel pressure, the injectors spray constantly.

this is the CIS distributor out of a mercedes 6 cyl... on the benz, the throttle body is under this and the air flows downwards, but the volvo one is kind of upside down relative to this, the throttle body is above the airflow meter, and whole thing is under the intake manifold instead of on top, with the airflow heading up. or something like that, I've never had a CIS volvo.

 

Last edited by pierce; 11-24-2018 at 03:09 PM.
  #5  
Old 11-24-2018, 04:03 PM
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Thank you Pierce

I will get the manual over here and start figuring it out.

Happy Holidays!
 
  #6  
Old 11-24-2018, 04:22 PM
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first thing I'd do is determine if the fuel pumps are running. on the benz there, the fuel enters the distributor from that S-shaped pipe on the right side, and exits the distributor via the fuel pressure regulator/accumulator on the left side, then returns to the gas tank. I would disconnect the incoming fuel line, attach a gas safe hose to it, into a gas safe container, disable the ignition system (unplug pin 15 of the coil) for safety, then crank the car for a ocuple seconds, confirm you got gas coming out of that hose while its cranking. i'd have a fire extinguisher at hand when you do this just to be prudent.

if you're not getting any fuel because the pumps aren't running, the number one candidate is the fuel pump relay.

this is the fuel system wiring diagram for a 1978...
 
  #7  
Old 11-24-2018, 04:29 PM
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ah, I note both fuse 5 and 7 are in the fuel system circuit, both of those must be good for anything to work.

the original tinplated ceramic fuses these cars used are less than satisfactory. I recommend everyone with a 240 acquire a set of copper/brass Flosser brand ceramic fuses, and replace every single fuse, after cleaning the spring contacts... I use a soft pink pencil eraser to clean electrical contacts, it removes corrosion without removing the protective plating.

btw, here's the parts locator to go with the above wiring diagram...

 
  #8  
Old 11-26-2018, 08:41 AM
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Pierce

Thank you for doing all that research.

About all I can do at this point is make sure the car has plenty of gas in it.

Will find out what the mechanic says after he gets it started.

That is funny somebody said fuel injection is same as on Mercedes.

We have a 300 coupe of that vintage. Small world.

Happy Holidays!
 
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