1979 Volvo 242 GT cranking issue
#1
1979 Volvo 242 GT cranking issue
hello, i have a Volvo 242 GT with a B21a motor that I just bought about two months ago. It was not running because the previous owner has rebuilt the whole bottom end by replacing the crankshaft, bearings (because before this he had spun a bearing but there was no damage to the block), piston rings and other things. So now that I finally got the engine ready to turn over with the started, I first tried to use a breaker bar just to make sure but it was dead solid. I called up the previous owner and asked him what he thought I should do, he wanted to stop by and see if he could spot anything out of place but when he came by he said it was normal after being rebuilt, with about 100flbs he cranked it over and it moved, once he did it a couple more times it got easier and easier to the point of 50-70flbs but when you would stop for 30seconds it would become hard as a rock, I don’t think there is just a hard spot because I got it to turn over 360 degrees while at a lower foot pound. Is this normal for a newly rebuilt motor??
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#6
ok, I will be sure to check the bearing caps, I texted he and he said he did not replace the rods, thanks for the advice!
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#8
This would be back to tearing down the engine and rebuilding it to spec. With the plugs out the engine should turn pretty freely by hand. Someone didn't do something right so now you need to start over again. At this point you don't know if it's the mains , rods or rings that are causing the problem.
#9
Engine rebuild is not for the novice! I tried it once, in 1973, Pontiac 215CID, and it ran, badly... I would never do it again: way too much work requiring a lot of measuring, machining, special tools, trips to the store, etc. To do it right is cost prohibitive. Luckily, Volvo motors are rarely in need of a total rebuild, and if you need a motor just get a used one--they are plentiful and cheap, or just buy a whole running car and get the motor, you'll still be much cheaper than doing a rebuild unless of course you want to... I actually stay away from "rebuilt" engines. Of the eight Volvos I have the worst one has a rebuilt engine, I'd much rather have a miler with good past maintenance. Same with transmissions, a rebuilt never last well, usually 25% of the original... My experiences.
Last edited by lev; 08-05-2018 at 04:27 PM.
#10
These are not old small block Chevy engines. Rebuilding engines is basically a thing of the past. In days gone by, those old cast iron blocks would wear out. Today, you can measure the cylinder walls and find that they are still new specs even after 150k miles. These are aluminum block engines with high silica content.
However, the red block engine he has I wouldn't give up too easily.
However, the red block engine he has I wouldn't give up too easily.
#11
I've managed to rebuild 2 engines in my lifetime as a shade tree mechanic. The 1st was a 63 Corvette 327 CI 300 hp and other then doing the boring and honing everything else is just measure/size and assemble. Didn't need to plane the deck or heads as they were in spec. The other was a 76 Jaguar 5.3L V12 which was a sleeved engine so no machine work but replaced some sleeves. That one cost me but it was a fun winter project. Other then that I did a 350 CI GM but started with a short block and built and assembled the components. I see the Red block as a pretty simple job but as mentioned they usually don't go bad or the worse thing would be to replace rods and pistons. Then again to get one from a wreck would be the easiest way to go. We have 373 K on our 89 740 so when it goes I'll most likely just pick up a used one . If the OP wants to pull his motor apart and fix what the problem is well good for him. If he doesn't have the skills then he'll have a problem. So I guess he needs to make a "make or buy" decision.
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