1982 244 No Spark

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Old 11-22-2018, 11:53 AM
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Default 1982 244 No Spark

The local mechanic who is pretty good with Volvo's has said I need to get: crank position sensor, distributor sensor (screw in type) and a cap & rotor. Having trouble finding these parts but I think EBay has the crank sensor (from England). Any thoughts?

Thanks
 
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Old 11-22-2018, 12:03 PM
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a 1982 has no crank position sensor, its a CIS-E (KE-Jetronics) injection car Crank position sensors were used with LH 2.4 starting in 1989.

not sure which ignition system it has, thats pretty old, could even be points/condensor based, but is more likely a hall sensor in the distributor.
 
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Old 11-22-2018, 01:01 PM
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I'd look into this mechanic's Volvo credentials; he has a few gaps in his expertise. Car would not have CPS, but a Hall sensor which doesn't "screw in", not both in any case....
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 12:23 AM
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Hi there,
There are no points in this car. If the Hall Sensor is "bad" will that cause no spark?
This is what I know so far...
No spark at the plugs. The spark plug wire are new, replaced them a month ago as normal maintenance.
No spark after the coil. I pulled the center wire off the cap and cranked the car with the wire from the coil to the metal valve cover to see if there was a spark; no good.
I happened to have a known good new coil. Tried that; no good.
FYI: The car does have an after market remote starter to start the car remotely for the cold weather... can that fail in a "no spark" condition?

Thanks again, all!
Alan
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 10:04 AM
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Bad Hall will cause no start, just cranking, and will kill the engine if intermittently bad. Also check the coaxial cable from the Hall sensor. I have seen them bad, chafing...
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 11:09 AM
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OK, I am going to check this weekend if I can make a little time...!
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 01:51 PM
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make sure coil pin 15 is getting 12V when the ignition is turned on. no coil power, time to investigate the ignition switch...

use a test light (not a digital volt meter) at coil pin1 (other end to ground), and crank, it should blink. if the coil has power, and their is blinking, then the problem is coil or distributor or HV wiring. if the coil has power, but no blinking, then the problem is ICU or hall sensor or wiring connecting these.

sorry, not familiar with what ICU (ignition control unit) a 1982 uses. later 80s up to 88 used a 'chrysler' ICU mounted on the right fender just behind the headlight.
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 02:26 PM
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any fuses or relays I should be looking at?
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 03:02 PM
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on the cars I'm familiar with there is a fuse for the LH fuel injection but none for the ignition. again, that volt meter test will tell you if you're getting ignition power.

unluckily, my DVD of 240 service stuff is missing the wiring diagrams for 1981-83, I have 1980 and 1984. 1980 just had an ignition power module, and a vacuum advance distributor. this power module just has 4 wires, 2 (brown, green) from the hall sensor in the distributor, white to pin 1 of the coil, and blue from ignition switched power. somewhere in between 80 and 84, they introduced computerized ignition aka chrysler, this has a ICU with a vacuum thing on the lower front-facing side of the ICU, and a 10(?) pin connector.
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 03:15 PM
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thanks...I think the 82, 83 and 84 years are the same... I have not looked at the car today, but I think I am remembering seeing an "ICU" where you say....

Will report back.

Alan
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 03:19 PM
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the pre-computerized system also had the ignition power module at that location, but that module was smaller and just had 4 wires.

the most obvious difference is where the vacuum bellow unit is located. on the computerized system, its on the ICU, on the pre-computerized breakerless system, its on the distributor. also, 10 pin connector plugged into face of unit, vs 4 pin plugged into bottom of unit.
 
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Old 11-23-2018, 03:30 PM
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on either system, the power to the ICU and coil comes off the fuse panel but is not connected to any fuse.

if you look at the fuse panel, to the right of each fuse is 3 spade lug connectors, partially obscured by the kick panel trim facia. each fuse position, the right/forward-most of these three spades is the 'input', while the middle and left/aftmost row are the outputs. the input spades of fuses 11-12-13 are connected together inside the fuse block.. power from the ignition switch circuit 15 (on in II and III) is a blue-yellow wire that goes to the input side of fuse 12, and the input side of fuse 11 is a blue wire that goes to both the ICU or power module, and to the coil pin 15 (on the non-computerized system, there's a ballast resistor in series with this wire... the wire actually connected to coil pin 15 is brown, there's a junction somewhere where it goes blue->brown)

so.... if you don't have around 12V at coil pin 15 when the ignition is switched on (II), then check to see if you have volts at fuses 11-12-13
 
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Old 11-24-2018, 09:15 PM
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This is good information as I am tracking down the same thing on my 83.
 
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Old 11-24-2018, 09:48 PM
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Was it just sitting there running, then just stopped?
 
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