oops, I wrote that wrong. the back terminal is the fuse 'input', and on fuse 5 has two wires, one is power from the relay, and the other is power to the main pump (which is not fused other than the main EFI 25A fuse under the hood).

 

not sure, can you give me the grid coordinate (G-7 or whatever) and callout number of one of those boxes. so I can see it myself?

never mind, I see them on K5... probably inline connectors.

and yes, 10 is the fuse panel, so 10/13 refers to fuse 13.

 

Yes, K-5 just above and to the left of 216. There are two of them along the bl-r wire.

In other news, I moved around the wire connectors at fuse 13 and re-measured continuity and got a 000.0 Ohm reading and now all relays work and the car is not dying anymore. Tomorrow I am going to clean those contacts behind the fuse panel and hopefully that will do it.

I don't know if it makes sense electrically, but speculating that since the replacement pump doesn't run as "cleanly', that it could exacerbate an existing wire resistance condition? The car was running well and normally until the pump let go. Bearing in mind that I often had to turn the key twice to actuate pump priming, could that be a possibility?

 

Update-solved:

After cleaning the spade connections at fuse 13 and the entire relay socket, there is no measured resistance in any connections from page 2 and the car is priming and running normally without issue. For now.

Thanks, Pierce!

 

my favorite method of cleaning gold contacts is a clean soft pink pencil eraser, and then use a drop of DeOxIT D100 on it to prevent future corrosion.

Also, *ANY* 240, you should replace ALL your fuses with the newer style copper/brass ones that have proper ceramic cores. the stuff sold retail in the US is plastic with tin plated fuse elements, these encourage corrosion and fail without obvious signs. these fuses work nicely, Volvo 30 Piece Fuse Kit for 240 & 260 AFTERMARKET 105869 3E1000