10-4 ! I'll try unplugging the CSI in the morning before I start it and see what it does. Will report more tomorrow. Thank you.

 

Wouldn't worry too much about codes on LH2.0...there are none.

 

After looking there is no cold start injector. It has been capped off where the injector is supposed to be. The wiring is all factory and still pretty clean but the only thing under the intake manifold that looks like it could be a plug to the injector is approximately 1/2 inch square in size and has 2 orange wires from it, but its currently plugged into another lead that goes to a complete harness.

 

Oh yeah...

 

Don't leave me hanging Burn Stains......oh yeah ??? Lol

 

Your LH2.0 car doesn't have a cold start injector.

Some general comments:
I would look and listen for any split lines/vacuum leaks. Make sure there are no holes in the hose that connects the air mass meter to the intake - lots of times the fender or the wires next to it will rub holes in it, allowing un-metered in.

Disconnect the vacuum line that goes between the intake and the fuel pressure regulator and make sure it doesn't have gas in it and the hose is in good shape.

Beyond all that you might need to check the o2 sensor output with a volt meter.

 

Bubba240....all the vacuum lines were replaced 4the weeks ago exceeeeept the one from intake to ECU. I was a foot short when guessing and bought bulk. Ill do that asap today. The check on regulator and O2 sensor will be easy enough also. More results to come....grrrrr.

 

The o2 sensor voltage should cycle quickly between ~.2 and .8VDC with everything connected, during warm idle. I use the connector on the thick green wire, under the rubber boot, on the passenger side firewall.

 

Well, I've been doing a bit of reading on 84's. Seems they have a bit of a reputation for poor cold starts even when rather new. Apparently, ..."The LH cars w/ stumbling should have the temp sensor checked, the intake manifold/chambers cleaned (Carb cleaner), and the fuel injectors cleaned (Techron), the FI seals should be checked.. check the Air Mass Meter?"-----http://www.swedishbricks.net/faq/

 

Alrighty folks, I'm waiting on the volt meter to arrive. But in the mean time, now all vacuum lines are brand new, I unplugged the MAF when I first started it up this morning when cold and after it warmed up and it did stumble and the idle dropped both times so it checks out as ok. The temp sensor (dual wires) was replaced 2 weeks ago, main fuel pump under the car (it was dead) was replaced, along with the pump relay and fuel filter about 4 weeks ago. The plate cover where the cold start injector would be had a finger tight bolt, so I tightened it up this morning. My next step is to have an emissions adjustment done to make sure the MAF is set correctly, due to it being a U pull it part, who knows if anybody messed with that before I got it. The injector seals are ok at this time, I sprayed carb cleaner around all of the bases of the injectors right when I started it up yesterday, before the seals had a time to heat up and swell, and nothing was any different. The flex intake tube coming from MAF to the intake manifold is in good shape after I checked it out.
SJ44...I read the exact same thing on more than one website regarding carbon build up inside the intake. Now its down to checking the O2 sensor and .....uhhhhhg...taking apart the intake and cleaning everything.

 

O2 sensor is getting .70-.75 volts. Looks like I'm left with plan "K" now....taking apart the intake and cleaning everything up. One part of me says, "Go do it now and get it over with. You're laid off for 2 more months." While the other part of me says, "Wait until it gets warmer outside, 37 degrees isnt any fun unless youre skiing." LOL
Any further adivice will be considered, and Im not an expert by any means, but I think all of the bases have been pretty much covered.
I would like to say thank you to ya'll for the advice and input. I havent seen starngers go out of their way to help others since I was racing stock cars and dwarf cars. Its very much appreciated.

 

Does the o2 sensor ever change from that voltage (after running a couple minutes)? It is correctly reporting rich, but the voltage never changing is usually a sign of a bad sensor because the fuel ecu is constantly changing the injector opening time to maintain the correct mixture. And so a good sensor voltage will constantly change after the car has warmed up.

Or maybe it's running rich because of something else .... and the ecu can't compensate enough, possibly a bad fuel pressure regulator. I know you changed the FI temp sensor but it might be good to check it's ohm's at the FI ECU (blue #2 wire). Should be around 7K cold, 300 ohms warm - to rule out a wiring fault.

 

Bulba...I only left the volt meter on for about 2-3 seconds and only checked it twice. Just to double check it. I'll give it another whirl and leave it on for a minute or so.

 

And make sure the green output wire stays connected or else the ECU won't see the voltage and make adjustments, when taking the measurement.

 

Im keen on keeping it connected, I've built my share of racecars. Just new to Volvo's. After 2 minutes its at .74 and stays steady.

 

Its only fluctuated from. 74 to. 75 .....and that's it.

 

Put a fork in it...it's done. Dead, passed away, out of here...passed on...

 

Roger that Houston...lol. IPD has one for 55 bucks or one for 25 if I do the splicing. Im thinking 55....its getting cold outside.

 

O2 sensor in. Car still ran a little rough when I started it, but the temp came up in only a couple minutes, instead of 5-10. We'll see what it does after a few days and if all goes well, then I'll clean out the intake system.
My expresso is done....gotta go now. Lol