So, my 1985 244 GL with B230F and automatic transmission has an intermittent stalling issue. I am fairly certain it is in the ignition system. It has the chrysler ignition module with a Bosch distributor with 3 wire halls pickup. I converted one of these to a Bosch ignition system once (in about 1995). I would like to do it again to this one but I can not remember any specific details. I have hunted in this forum to no avail. Can anyone help, either with the details of the "get rid of chrysler ignition" or finding an existing thread that has said details?

 

I'd do a check of the ignition system components and the ICU before converting. I too recently had a stalling/dying/no start issue that I eventually traced back to a dead in-tank pump; my ignition was fine. just to say, you may double-check to be sure.

that being said... the hall sensor in my 85 240 was also causing issues earlier this year, so I replaced it. it would cause the engine to stall and die while driving. easily diagnosed by jostling the terminal off the distributor.

you can confirm this problem by removing a spark plug and grounding it - choose whichever plug is currently aligned with the rotor under the distributor cap. then remove the harness from the hall effect sensor and jump terminals A and B (two leftmost terminals as it connects to sensor). if a spark fires, yet the stalling persists, it is likely the hall sensor.

you can check the ICU, too. pull the connector straight off (no wiggling). then remove the ICU and open it up - inspect for cracked soldering. I don't know how they would ever crack since Volvo encases the boards in 1/4" of gel... but i hear they can fail that way. also, check that you have the electrical sleeves on pins #3, 5 9 (which go the distributor) of the ICU terminal. (part number 1324909) in absence of those pins, intermittent connection faults may happen to distributor.

if you really wanna convert to EZK, get an EZK box and a harness from Dave Barton: https://www.240turbo.com/harnessconv...ml#EZKversion1

and a knock sensor from a 7/9xx series car.

 

Thanks for the info!

That Dave Barton harness looks like the way to go! I have had enough problems with that darn Chrysler ignition system that I think I just want to git rid of it. I have owned 6 volvos and the only ignition system problems I have ever had have been with the two cars that had this system. When I did the swap before, I probably spent 8-10 hours researching wiring diagrams and circuit functions, then another 10 hours scrounging connectors from a salvage yard and putting it all together. The Dave Barton harness is a way better value.

I am 99% sure that it is not fuel. (I am never 100% sure, especially on an intermittent problem.) The stalling is so random and intermittent that it is hard to test for. It will stall at the most inconvenient of times and inconvenient places and then usually restart in 10-30 minutes. It may do it 2 or 3 times one day, then not again for 2-3 weeks. At different times while it was in "crank - no start" mode, I have tested both fuel pumps and the ignition coil. It is definitely something that renders no spark and no injector pulse. Could be the Halls pick-up.

Thanks again for the info!
May God bless you!

 

a simple way to test the in-tank pump - which was my problem - is: disconnect the supply line at the back of the main fuel pump. should be one worm clamp, maybe a couple screws if there's a cover. run the supply line into a container. remove the fuse for the in-tank pump (mine is #4, probably same on yours), the run a jumper wire from the LEFT side of fuse #6 to the RIGHT side of fuse #4. if no fuel comes out, your in-tank pump is dead and likely the culprit.

my intermittent issue was dying/no start after long-ish trips on hot days. (every day is a hot day in Louisiana, though) like you say, it'd die and not start, only to start back up after 5-10min. so my analysis is that the main pump would over-work and then shut-off since my in-tank pump was dead. but after it cooled down, it was okay.

but definitely check the hall sensor. the bentley manual has all the steps to troubleshoot the entire ignition system - and it would take you 30min with a meter.

Dave Barton's harnesses are great and if you are converting to EZK, you may consider getting a new ECU main harness from him, too, as our cars in the biodegradable wiring years for Volvo.

 

I would add that a pressure gauge is a good idea when testing the in-tank pump. Simply seeing fuel flow is only going half way. I've seen several with hot weather issues if the pressure was below 5 psi. The new ones I've tested all put out 7-8 psi, and I can assure you strange hot weather issues at 2-3 psi. It has been nearly 30 years since I read the Volvo technical service bulletin about the in tank pump issue, but as I recall, it is not that the main pump shuts off. The low pressure caused by the restriction of a dead or under performing in tank pump, combined with high temperatures allows gasoline to vaporize in the hose between the two pumps. More or less a "vapor lock" situation. I can tell you from experience, that in a pinch, you can actually temporarily solve the problem by removing the dead in tank pump. But you have to keep the tank at least half full.

As I said before, I have "already tested both fuel pumps" while failure was occurring.

I would also comment that the ignition system testing you are suggesting has been attempted but yielded no definite results when the failure is not occurring at the time of testing. When the failure was happening, I verified no spark and no injector pulse, then it started before I could test farther.

Thanks for mentioning the engine wiring harness. That can be very helpful if someone is unaware of that issue. I wonder (doubt) if there are actually any of the original engine wiring harnesses in service at this point? The one in this car was replaced about 15 years ago and appears to be in good shape currently.

 

my apologies, i didn't mean to otherwise question your skills or anything. sometimes posts on the forum will say 'i know both fuel pumps are working' when the user merely ran them w/o car running and figured they could hear both.

My 85 (i think) had the OG harness in it until I put a D-Barton one in in April of this year. My alternator wires looked like strands of hair!

I did get the terminals mis-named for the hall sensor test - jump terminals C and B. still the two leftmost terminals as it connects to hall sensor:


the grounded plug should fire a spark each time the two terminals are jumped. simulates the hall effect sensor. if there is a spark during this test, and the car still stalls/dies, the hall sensor may be bad

 

Bosch ignition was never used on a 240 until 1989 when they switched to LH 2.4. it /was/ used on LH 2.2 740's. the Bosch ICU (Ignition Control Unit) was mounted under the dashboard, on the interior side of the firewall, and required way different harness connections, that would require a fair bit of adaptation to the rest of the 240 electricals, since the fuse panels and relays are all in different places.