1985 244 Turbo - IAC question
#1
1985 244 Turbo - IAC question
Hello Everyone -
I officially have the 240 sickness and purchased a second 240. Bought an 1985 244 Turbo recently. I'm just starting to dig in to car repair stuff, tune-up and fluid changes.
IAC question. I'm familiar with the 1990 240 setup. This IAC valve looks different and I'm wondering if they are interchangeable or what would fit a 244 Turbo at the wrecking yard.
The car was idling fine at start up. After warmup the idle would rise with a smooth idle at 2000 rpm. Starting today I went hunting for an air leak and I found it coming of the IAC with a huge crack. I temporarily fixed it by shortening the hose. While doing so I cleaned the IAC but what I found odd is that valve inside the IAC was not spring loaded to stay closed like my 1990 IAC. I'm thinking it is broken and is basically no longer operable. This was probably masked by the large air leak in the hose that I had fixed. The car is now idling very low at start then smooths out after warm up at about 1000 RPM.
So question - on a 1985 IAC should the valve stay closed unless you moved it open manually with a screw driver then close on its own when you pull the screw driver out?
Second - if its dead what are my options without spending $200 for a new one.
Thanks!
I officially have the 240 sickness and purchased a second 240. Bought an 1985 244 Turbo recently. I'm just starting to dig in to car repair stuff, tune-up and fluid changes.
IAC question. I'm familiar with the 1990 240 setup. This IAC valve looks different and I'm wondering if they are interchangeable or what would fit a 244 Turbo at the wrecking yard.
The car was idling fine at start up. After warmup the idle would rise with a smooth idle at 2000 rpm. Starting today I went hunting for an air leak and I found it coming of the IAC with a huge crack. I temporarily fixed it by shortening the hose. While doing so I cleaned the IAC but what I found odd is that valve inside the IAC was not spring loaded to stay closed like my 1990 IAC. I'm thinking it is broken and is basically no longer operable. This was probably masked by the large air leak in the hose that I had fixed. The car is now idling very low at start then smooths out after warm up at about 1000 RPM.
So question - on a 1985 IAC should the valve stay closed unless you moved it open manually with a screw driver then close on its own when you pull the screw driver out?
Second - if its dead what are my options without spending $200 for a new one.
Thanks!
#2
#4
whoa, kjet in 85? I thought volvo had dropped that entirely several years before then.
ok, so thats the k-jet IAC, which yeah, is completely different than the LH ones.
I've zero experience with those, only K-Jet I've had my nose under in the last 20 years is a 1990 Mercedes 300E, which also is rather completely different.
ok, I do have a 1985 Volvo 240 greenbook wiring diagram that shows k-jet and the CIS constant idle system..... ahaha, its a 3-wire idle valve, so I bet its push-pull. shows white, brown, and green wires, with the brown in the middle. I bet power to white pulls it one way, power to green the other, and brown is ground. or wait, maybe, based on how they drew the 'current flow' diagram, white is power, brown is ground, and green is pulsed to power OR ground to open/close? that makes sense too. fyi, white is labeled pin 11/5, brown is pin 4, green is 7/3 (no idea what that means)
ok, so thats the k-jet IAC, which yeah, is completely different than the LH ones.
I've zero experience with those, only K-Jet I've had my nose under in the last 20 years is a 1990 Mercedes 300E, which also is rather completely different.
ok, I do have a 1985 Volvo 240 greenbook wiring diagram that shows k-jet and the CIS constant idle system..... ahaha, its a 3-wire idle valve, so I bet its push-pull. shows white, brown, and green wires, with the brown in the middle. I bet power to white pulls it one way, power to green the other, and brown is ground. or wait, maybe, based on how they drew the 'current flow' diagram, white is power, brown is ground, and green is pulsed to power OR ground to open/close? that makes sense too. fyi, white is labeled pin 11/5, brown is pin 4, green is 7/3 (no idea what that means)
Last edited by pierce; 12-08-2015 at 01:19 AM.
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