Hi, for full history of my car, a 1985 245 DL automatic with 195K, see the last paragraph, otherwise here’s the situation. About mid October my car started to intermittently not start in the mornings, crank strong but no start. By mid afternoon, when things had warmed up, it would start fine. Knowing it wasn’t a power issue I had it diagnosed at a reputable shop (of course the next morning it DID start for them!) and they said codes showed the mass air sensor was bad and the coolant temp sensor read 10 degrees too cold. I continued to drive the car for about three weeks while I had my dad send me a mass air sensor from a pull-a-part back home ($15 compared to $400 for the shop to do it.) During this time gas mileage had also dropped from 300 miles/tank to about 200 miles/tank. After putting on the “new” sensor it drove fine for 2 days then again began sporadically not starting. I took it back to the shop and they said the new sensor was great, it was now the ignition control module malfunctioning but I could still maybe get it to start by banging on it (not kidding). That worked thrice before it finally refused to start in town so I had it towed to my place where it sat a month over Christmas break. Back home I picked up a couple ignition control modules but didn’t realize they wouldn’t work since they were from ’81 & ’82 cars and the system must have changed. Funny thing is, despite the 5 degree weather and not running for a month, the car started right up when I got back, so I drove it for a week and ½ (getting the same abysmal mileage) before it once again refused to start last Thursday and hasn’t started since.
So now I’m thinking my best bet is to properly replace the ICM and coolant temp sensor but I’m a little wary since it’s an expensive part even online and non-returnable. Can’t even find it on IPD. Has anyone had a good experience replacing these? Is it not worth getting a used part? A local wrecking yard says they probably have one for $75 and am I right that any ’85-’88 part should work? Unlike the old ones I got. And just plugging it in should make it work right? Oh, and what’s up with the weird slimy grease pasted on the connecting terminals?
Also what of the coolant temp. sensor is it even that important? I did get one off an ’81 that had the intake manifold already removed but can’t figure out how to even access it on my car.
Oh, and nearly forgot, the car makes a low whining noise at about 10mph that increases in pitch while staying pretty quiet till it sounds like a tiny jet engine at 45mph and higher. Other than all that the only thing wrong with the car is the blinkers which turn on but only blink intermittently and the reverse light wiring is faulty.
Thanks so much for any input, sorry for taking being so long winded but I think I’ve covered everything!

So I bought this car, my first Volvo, last July when looking for a $500 ride to drive across country to school in Indiana. Crazy? I know, but isn’t that what college students are? The car had some issues, that’s why it was cheap, but I had a Volvo mechanic look at it so I’d know what had to be fixed and my uncle helped me work on it before coming out here. We replaced the wiper motor, heater blower motor, transmission mount, battery, alternator belts (it only had one & was squeaking), looked over all the tune up parts (didn’t replace any since they didn’t look bad), and replaced the left side wiring to the tailgate plus a bunch of cosmetic stuff and had the oil changed. It stalled twice on the 2400 mile trip, 100 miles from Seattle, because I hadn’t noticed the alternator power wire was completely frayed (easily fixed) and once midway through Montana, exactly why I still don’t know. After sitting for 10 mins it started and drove 20 miles into Butte where it again stalled and restarted. I got all the tune up parts the local O’Reilly’s had but ended up just putting in lucas oil and it drove the next 1,500 miles without a hitch. Here in Indiana I redid my alternator wiring which had come undone and O’Reilly’s replaced the warranted alternator thinking that’s what was wrong, though I don’t think it actually was. Otherwise it did great until the weather started to chill. It’s the first car I’ve ever worked on at all so I’m still brand new to this stuff.

 

I think you have LH2.2 fuel injection. If you do, this link should apply: http://www.stepbystepvolvo.com/

I found my hall effect sensor defective for my no start. It started out being a little intermittent and got worse. I found the cheapest new one for 20 bucks and with a little soldering I was back in business and reliable. I would suggest that you follow this guide as it is very complete and won't leave you chasing around like me for a month.

A new temperature sender would be wise, rather than a used one. They are not expensive. On my car I could get to it with an extension and a 19mm or 3/4" deep socket.

A new oxygen sensor may help with the mileage, but I would worry about that after the car is running again and if mileage is still bad. O'Reily seemed to have the best price.

I would seriously doubt that the ignition control unit is bad. From what I understand, that doesn't happen very often. It's like the last thing to replace.

First we need to know if you have LH2.2 FI and Ezk117 ignition. Post a pic of your engine bay.

 

The ICM has a number, replace with the same. However, I don't think it's the problem. Does this engine have a white distributor cap? The 82's did, but I don't think you have the Chrysler ignition system. What I have discovered with the seven different 240's I have owned when this problem developed was the fuse for the injector system. Try cleaning it. Open lead ceramic fuse in the holder with a different metal in wet weather makes for various problems.

The jet engine noise sounds exhaust system related as in blockage, maybe converter, would also decrease mileage.

Good luck with the Love affair you're in with this car.

 

Here's a pic of the engine.

I just assumed it's an LH 2.2 since that's all my haynes lists for '85 but I don't know how to check what electrical system it has. The haynes seems to say '83-'88 models used a joint crysler/volvo computerized ignition.

I was wondering the same thing about it not being the ICU since it seems they never go out for other people. I know the guy at the shop used a diagnostic computer and got a code for the air mas meter, but the second time I thought said he couldn't get a code because the ICU was bad. Either that or he actually got a code for the ICU, anyway he was convinced. So IDK what to think. I would at least like to put on a different one that works and see if it runs better.

About the # on ICUs, is it a individual serial# or just a part #? Cause my brother found one from an '88 at a pull-a-part and I'm hoping it will work.
Online parts sources seem to indicate it should:
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=8111230,
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/3381/nm/1985_1988_Volvo_240_Ignition_Control_Unit_100_00_C ore/category_id/111,
http://www.swedishautoparts.com/240/volvo-240-ignition-parts-and-related.html

Oh, and the car started up today. Sounded horibbly rough when first started and doesn't even out, no matter how long I let it idle, til I actually drive some miles, after which it sounds fine. And no funny noise today either.

 

Oops, file was too big. Here's the engine.

Thanks for the heads up about the hall effect switch, where exactly is that?

 

The "Jet" take off noise you hear is probably the bearing that is housed in a bushing on the first drive shaft... Over time they wear out and start to kind of whistle.. Germanautoparts.com has a pretty decent price on them.. Mine is going bad as we speak lol..

As for ICM's I have personally dealt with a faulty ICM twice.. The Numbers printed on the top of the ICM should correspond.. maybe not Identically but if they don't, you should at least grab one from the same year vehicle if you can.. I think I had grabbed one from an '85, not thining about it (my car being an 88), and the car cranked and got spark but didn't recieve injector pulse. Changed it out with one from an 87 or 88, and it started right up.

If I were you, yea I would do my research on an ICM, but also start with the cheap stuff.. An internal combustion engine needs 4 things to run.
1. AIR
2.Fuel
3.Fire (spark)
4. Compression

I would also start to kinda lean towards what the mechanic says with the ICM too if you were able to beat on it and get the car to start 3 times.. I wouldn't think those would all be a coincidence.

 

It's on the side of the distributor (where the spark plug wires come together)

I think there is a resistance (ohms) test you can do on the hall sensor.. it should be in your book, if I read correctly that you have a haynes manual

Come to think of it. I think there is also a resistance test you can run from your hall sensor and your ignition coil. And also one from what I think I remember is the Blue wire on the ICM (but thats a voltage test if I remember correctly)

 

The Hall sensor is on the distributor...there's a wire going to it. Kind of dainty work. The 85 has LH2.2 Jetronic injection...there is no other option in 85, 86, 87 or 88 in the US so you are correct there. I seriously question what codes a shop pulls from a car without onboard diagnostics. We have an old scanner that plugs in between the ecu and the harness connector and speaks volumes but few shops bought it new, let alone still have one. Your gas mileage may be a direct result of a bad O2 sensor and not directly related to the issue at hand. The previous posts bear out my own experience; ICU's seldom fail. The ecu can and will...but not the ICU. Culprits? Here's the usual suspects: a. The Hall sensor b. the ignition module. This is located near the driver side headlight on inner fender c. worn out rotor and/or distributor cap

 

Titan Joe: Where'd you find a hall sensor for $20? Cheapest I can find is $60.

iatotofts: Thanks. Nice to know you've successfully replaced ICMs. And definitely sounds like I need to pick up a multimeter for those resistance tests.

siftjustice44: What's the ignition module? I thought that was just another name for the ICU.
And yes I wondered the same thing about how the mechanic could get code from a car with no onboard code system. I do know the shop has some experience with volvos though it's not a volvo shop per se.

Ok, so I'm thinking I'll go ahead and do the regular tune-up stuff and see if it helps. I was wondering if you guys with more experience had any sugesstions as far as choices. Like,
Spark plugs: regular bosch, denso, NGK/NGK v-power, or the more expensive versions?
Coil: Bosch, Scantech (cheaper), or Orielly's (way cheaper)?
Oil & filter: bosch filter or is fram fine, valvoline high milage oil or regular O'rielly's?

Thank's again.

 

Yeah, the scanner we use is called MasterTech. It's probably 20-25 years old...basically solely for Bosch injection. Can provide lots of good info on the well being of various sensors but it's not like a Snap-On Solus that can tell you there's chewing gum in the rear ash tray!he ignition module, sometimes called an ignitor, is a solid state unit. It either works or it doesn't...never seen a marginal one. Located inner fender front, driver side hidden by air box on n/a cars, near the headlight. Here's what it looks like...

 

I personally am a NGK junky.. If NGK makes plugs for it, which I know it does, because I run them in mine, I would/did buy them! As far as the type of NGK plugs, I just go with the standard requirement. I've had bad experiences with those Platinum plugs and such before...
As far as the coil is concerned,i didn't really have a specific name that i go with. I would def. advise something that has a decent warranty that won't set you back too much.
And for my logic with Oil filters.. My car is 23 years old. From what i've read, bosch is one of the best oil filters you can by, aside from such brands as Royal Purple etc. I use them because I feel that you should kinda spend the extra buck on a vehicle that old, it may just be a mental problem I have, but when it comes to oil I like to use a good oil (castrol gtx) and a good filter. and I feel the same with all lubes. because I feel like if it fails.. chances are that it wasn't my fault.

 

Hall Effect sensor:

http://www.bbautomacao.com/home_hall...r_cyhme56.html

I'm pretty sure that's the one I bought a few years ago. It takes a little know-how to install this one, since it does not come with the contacts one the wire ends. I cut the old contacts off of my old sensor and soldered them to my new ones, after I had cut the wires to the proper length. If you're pretty handy with a soldering gun, you can do it pretty easily.

For the rest of the swap out procedure see post #15 in this thread: https://volvoforums.com/forum/showth...+sensor&page=2
There's a little more info there about how I did it in that thread too.

The easiest way to test it is to swap in a whole distributor that is known working.