No crank, no start (Well... Some crank)
#1
No crank, no start (Well... Some crank)
Ok guys, First or second post here. Whats up! I need some help please!
If you turn the key 1->2->3 quickly the starter engages and tries to turn the motor over. You can physically see the timing belt move about an inch or two then the car stops. If you go 1->2......->3 you get nothing. You have to sneak up on it to trick the car to start for half a second.
Here's what I have checked
*Starter (Bench tested, fine)
*Alternator (Bench tested, bad diode, replaced)
*Battery changed with a fully charged working one out of a working car every time I test it
*Terminal connections and all other connections-to starter- alternator- etc... Checked and cleaned with sandpaper.
*Fuses and relays checked (They all click when 12v supply is added)
*2 10A fuses blown (Highbeams and interior lights or something useless like that)
*Car internal lights turn on, a lot of warning lights are on like oil, red car with an X through it, battery, CEL, etc...
I hooked an OBD2 scanner up to it and got an incomplete for
-Misfire monitor
-Fuel System
-Comp component
-Catalyst mon
-Evap system
-Oxy sensor
I feel as though these aren't related to my problem though, there is no way all of these things can fail at once.
Before I changed out the alternator the car would only click occasionally, now it tries to turn the motor and it does turn it for a very small amount. I need some help on this one guys.
Thanks for the help!
-Dave
If you turn the key 1->2->3 quickly the starter engages and tries to turn the motor over. You can physically see the timing belt move about an inch or two then the car stops. If you go 1->2......->3 you get nothing. You have to sneak up on it to trick the car to start for half a second.
Here's what I have checked
*Starter (Bench tested, fine)
*Alternator (Bench tested, bad diode, replaced)
*Battery changed with a fully charged working one out of a working car every time I test it
*Terminal connections and all other connections-to starter- alternator- etc... Checked and cleaned with sandpaper.
*Fuses and relays checked (They all click when 12v supply is added)
*2 10A fuses blown (Highbeams and interior lights or something useless like that)
*Car internal lights turn on, a lot of warning lights are on like oil, red car with an X through it, battery, CEL, etc...
I hooked an OBD2 scanner up to it and got an incomplete for
-Misfire monitor
-Fuel System
-Comp component
-Catalyst mon
-Evap system
-Oxy sensor
I feel as though these aren't related to my problem though, there is no way all of these things can fail at once.
Before I changed out the alternator the car would only click occasionally, now it tries to turn the motor and it does turn it for a very small amount. I need some help on this one guys.
Thanks for the help!
-Dave
#4
#5
Ok, I can manually wire the starter and get the motor to crank over. Once it cranks over the engine dies out. It starts strong, has plenty of spark, but this shutting off problem is the computer telling the motor to turn off I know it.
The radiator fan also runs all the time, even with the key off. I think there is a sensor telling the ECU the car is way too hot and it is shutting off.
Can someone give me some advice?
The radiator fan also runs all the time, even with the key off. I think there is a sensor telling the ECU the car is way too hot and it is shutting off.
Can someone give me some advice?
#7
I had the same problem. In my case, the dealer replaced the ignition switch(they called it the Start control unit), and the problem went away. There are codes for it that dont turn on the information light. Not sure if a generic OBD2 reader would pull those codes or not.
my symptoms were slow crank sometimes, no crank most of the time, clicks, battery appeared dead(dome lights dim sometimes, other times not).
very frustrating. I first replaced the battery since it was still original.
Last insult after the part replacement was being told that I needed to spend another $30 to have the windows and headlamp "recalibrated" since I had replaced the battery.
BTW, it was $500 parts and labor to fix. Problem has not reoccurred yet.
my symptoms were slow crank sometimes, no crank most of the time, clicks, battery appeared dead(dome lights dim sometimes, other times not).
very frustrating. I first replaced the battery since it was still original.
Last insult after the part replacement was being told that I needed to spend another $30 to have the windows and headlamp "recalibrated" since I had replaced the battery.
BTW, it was $500 parts and labor to fix. Problem has not reoccurred yet.
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09-22-2014 01:02 AM