1986 240 DL Timing belt blew while stopped
#21
Ok so I brought cylinder #1 to TDC like you said (Unscrewed spark plug and used a screwdriver to feel it at the top while turning the crankshaft bolt clockwise) then checked the cam gear, intermediate gear and crankshaft pulley hoping they would all be lined up but this is what I got. Any suggestions? Can I just take the belt off and turn each gear with a socket to where they need to be?
#23
Correct. The definition of a non-interference engine is the top of the piston will never under normal circumstances occupy the same space as the valves, so you're safe as long as it is the stock cam. Turbo motors are the cars where one can occasionally run into an aftermarket cam that makes the motor an interference motor. Extremely rare on an n/a motor.
#24
Well swiftjustice44 you were right sir! I just drove it around my neighborhood and about a mile from my house. It didnt seem like there was anything wrong but my main concern is what if im just 1 tooth off how can u tell? Because as of right now it seems like it drives smoother than it did before I replaced the belt. Got any tips buddy?
#25
#26
Lol and what if they didn't? Now when I just started it after going for a 20min cruise and let it sit for 2 hours the idle sounds weak and like it wants to stall out. I noticed one of the Lil vacuum lines coming from the air filter hose past the MAF is cracked at the rubber elbow and the same prob happened earlier so I wiggled my MAF and the air filter hose lines and that's when it ran like a champ. Could my MAF need cleaning and that's prob what the prob is or is it the timing belt again lol
#30
Damnit! I got the car to start right after putting the belt on and drove for like 20 mins then came home and chilled for a few hours. Then went out to move the car around in driveway and it had hard time starting then the idle was crap and real low so I had to feather throttle to move the car around.
Today I bought MAF cleaner and cleaned MAF then put everything back together and it had hard time starting but on 3 rd try she fired up. I continued to drive for like 30 mins and parked her. Came out 4-5 hours later and tried to go to work and tried starting about 10x's along with primin the engine and she won't fire up. I don't get it.
Questions:
-If my belt were off it wouldn't run great once I got her started nor start at all, right?
-Could this be a prob, I bought new plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor and air filter but broke one of the new wires so had to use an old one, the spark plugs don't fit onto the wires because the nipple isn't removable (so forced to use old plugs) and therefore one of the old plugs is stripped so it isn't torqued down as tight as others.
-Could I actually be off by one tooth on timing belt? But wouldn't the car run like crap those two times I cruised?
-And I'm not sure if it's a fuel prob but I smell fuel so it's def getting to the rail.
Anyone got some suggestions?
Today I bought MAF cleaner and cleaned MAF then put everything back together and it had hard time starting but on 3 rd try she fired up. I continued to drive for like 30 mins and parked her. Came out 4-5 hours later and tried to go to work and tried starting about 10x's along with primin the engine and she won't fire up. I don't get it.
Questions:
-If my belt were off it wouldn't run great once I got her started nor start at all, right?
-Could this be a prob, I bought new plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor and air filter but broke one of the new wires so had to use an old one, the spark plugs don't fit onto the wires because the nipple isn't removable (so forced to use old plugs) and therefore one of the old plugs is stripped so it isn't torqued down as tight as others.
-Could I actually be off by one tooth on timing belt? But wouldn't the car run like crap those two times I cruised?
-And I'm not sure if it's a fuel prob but I smell fuel so it's def getting to the rail.
Anyone got some suggestions?
#32
#35
Different Info For 240 Timing Belt
Sure, that's how it's done. I can see we'll have a sucess story by this afternoon I'll bet. I would just caution you to adjust the belt tensioner accordingly. It's a simple matter of loosening it and allowing it to tighten, then retighten the bolt on it. Be sure to do this one more time in a 1000 miles or so after the belt has worn in and stretched a bit. There is a rubber plug in the top timing cover to access the adjuster bolt w/o removing anything else.
I came across this thread and it is about time to do the re-tensioning of my new timing belt on my 89 240. I probably have 700 miles or so on the new belt and am going to do the re-tension - with the new tensioner.
However I have come across a tutorial that says rotate the engine 360 and a how-to on another site that says turn crank 1/8 turn "to make sure there is tension on the belt" before locking down the tensioner nut.
Here you're just saying to loosen tensioner and re-tighten - makes sense - but the other folks don't agree.
Very confusing.
Any feedback would be much appreciated.
Thanks...
#36
I was diagnosing an idle problem with my '86 745 B230FT. The timing belt was replaced long ago but never re-tensioned. Result? 25 degrees advanced at idle. Removed belt covers and it was obvious that the belt was 1 tooth off at the cam (my distributor is driven off the back of the cam). Just loosening and re-tightening the tensioner bolt brought the cam sprocket / belt alignment back on target. No turning the crank back-n-forth to ensure that everything was aligned before tightening the tensioner bolt. Also, my upper belt cover has a rubber insert over the tensioner bolt that allows one to easily loosen / tighten the bolt after 700 / 1000 miles without removing the cover.
#37
Just loosen the bolt on the tensioner...it will retension itself. I will say this...I've heard some old timers say to retension the belt every 10k or so. I really do not like retensioning old belts. I've had a few instances of breakage not long after...enough times for me to suspect it is not coincidence. YRMV
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