1986 Volvo 240 Problems/Questions
#1
06-06-2012, 08:04 AM
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1986 Volvo 240 Problems/Questions
My friend has a 1986 Volvo 240 with about 250,000 miles on it. I cleaned the throttle body on it today, after which it idled really funny and scared me that I had screwed something up. Apparently the problem stopped, so that's all good now... But anyways, right before the throttle body on the hose there are two ports with tubes going out of them. One of them is hooked up to something, the other has nothing on the end of it 
. Is this normal? It seems like this would suck unfiltered air into the engine?
One other odd thing is the car appears to not have AC, even though the switches are all there and it blows air. Does anyone know if it's possible this car didn't come with AC? It has an old Volvo dealer emblem on it from North Carolina.
And the biggest issue at the moment is the tailights. Only the drivers side tailights work. All the bulbs are good. I haven't personally replaced the fuses, but the mechanic she had try and fix it said that when you replace one fuse the other blows out. Does anyone know if this is a common problem with them? The connectors going into each side of the tailight look slightly different. One side has two wires grounded to the frame, and the other only has one.
Any help with any of these issues would be greatly appreciated.
. Is this normal? It seems like this would suck unfiltered air into the engine?One other odd thing is the car appears to not have AC, even though the switches are all there and it blows air. Does anyone know if it's possible this car didn't come with AC? It has an old Volvo dealer emblem on it from North Carolina.
And the biggest issue at the moment is the tailights. Only the drivers side tailights work. All the bulbs are good. I haven't personally replaced the fuses, but the mechanic she had try and fix it said that when you replace one fuse the other blows out. Does anyone know if this is a common problem with them? The connectors going into each side of the tailight look slightly different. One side has two wires grounded to the frame, and the other only has one.
Any help with any of these issues would be greatly appreciated.
#4
06-06-2012, 01:56 PM
if the car came with AC, there would be a AC compressor on the side of the engine, and a dryer/reciever can near the right side firewall, along with all the associated plumbing. on the dash, near the fan switch would be a small **** which shuts the AC off if turned alll the way CCW til it clicks, and increases the duty cycle of the AC if turned CW.
240 A/C was weak at best when new, and was R12 powered, which is now nearly unobtanium (it can be had, for big $$$ but its no longer made). our 87 hasn't worked since about 1995.
common taillight problem is corrosion on the flexi-circuit that the lamp holders bayonet onto. clean everything up with a little fine emery cloth (just take the corrosion off, don't take the metal plating off!) and reassemble with some dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.
all the lights are wired to the bulb failure sensor relay/thing, which is a round can about the size of a tomato paste can buried under the dash somewhere, then from there to the various switches and control relays.
240 A/C was weak at best when new, and was R12 powered, which is now nearly unobtanium (it can be had, for big $$$ but its no longer made). our 87 hasn't worked since about 1995.
common taillight problem is corrosion on the flexi-circuit that the lamp holders bayonet onto. clean everything up with a little fine emery cloth (just take the corrosion off, don't take the metal plating off!) and reassemble with some dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.
all the lights are wired to the bulb failure sensor relay/thing, which is a round can about the size of a tomato paste can buried under the dash somewhere, then from there to the various switches and control relays.
Last edited by pierce; 06-06-2012 at 01:59 PM.
#5
06-13-2012, 07:51 PM
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if the car came with AC, there would be a AC compressor on the side of the engine, and a dryer/reciever can near the right side firewall, along with all the associated plumbing. on the dash, near the fan switch would be a small **** which shuts the AC off if turned alll the way CCW til it clicks, and increases the duty cycle of the AC if turned CW.
240 A/C was weak at best when new, and was R12 powered, which is now nearly unobtanium (it can be had, for big $$$ but its no longer made). our 87 hasn't worked since about 1995.
common taillight problem is corrosion on the flexi-circuit that the lamp holders bayonet onto. clean everything up with a little fine emery cloth (just take the corrosion off, don't take the metal plating off!) and reassemble with some dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.
all the lights are wired to the bulb failure sensor relay/thing, which is a round can about the size of a tomato paste can buried under the dash somewhere, then from there to the various switches and control relays.
240 A/C was weak at best when new, and was R12 powered, which is now nearly unobtanium (it can be had, for big $$$ but its no longer made). our 87 hasn't worked since about 1995.
common taillight problem is corrosion on the flexi-circuit that the lamp holders bayonet onto. clean everything up with a little fine emery cloth (just take the corrosion off, don't take the metal plating off!) and reassemble with some dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.
all the lights are wired to the bulb failure sensor relay/thing, which is a round can about the size of a tomato paste can buried under the dash somewhere, then from there to the various switches and control relays.
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dman777
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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