1988 240 , no spark
Hello I have a 1988 Volvo 240dl auto with 93,000 miles on it for what it's worth. I was on a normal drive down a hill when I discovered the car has stopped firing. I then towed it home and discovered it had no spark. I threw some parts at it. Has new spark plugs, wires, distributor, distributor cap, rotor, and a coil. Still no spark. And yes I checked the timing belt it is still intact. What could it be at this point? Engine control module? Thanks
Goldenblock here!! I believe its your crankposition sensor! If the signal is missing from ecu, you wont have any fire at all. Check the ohms on it first before replacing. Check for broken insullation... Oss
Thanks for the response. I am certain my 88 240 is no equipped with a crank position sensor
Ok cool try to look for your radio supression relay! Should be near your coolant tank on your 240. Have someone touch it and listen for a click as you turn key to position #1. I believe it powers your your injectors also that year. Or record it on your phone for sound, if your alone. Oss
Ok cool try to look for your radio supression relay! Should be near your coolant tank on your 240. Have someone touch it and listen for a click as you turn key to position #1. I believe it powers your your injectors also that year. Or record it on your phone for sound, if your alone. Oss
OMG, so much bad advice.
a 1988 240 is LH 2.2, it uses a hall sensor in the distributor NOT a crank position sensor, which was used on LH2.4 in 1989+
the radio suppression relay is only used on 740/940, not on 240.
spark is controlled by the ICU (ignition control unit), not the ECU (fuel injection control unit). on a 1988 240, the ICU is a chrysler unit against the inside of the right fender just behind the headlight.
I would indeed verify that power is getting to coil pin 15 when the ignition is turned on, and that coil pin 1 shows pulses (use a test light) when the car is cranked over.
a 1988 240 is LH 2.2, it uses a hall sensor in the distributor NOT a crank position sensor, which was used on LH2.4 in 1989+
the radio suppression relay is only used on 740/940, not on 240.
spark is controlled by the ICU (ignition control unit), not the ECU (fuel injection control unit). on a 1988 240, the ICU is a chrysler unit against the inside of the right fender just behind the headlight.
I would indeed verify that power is getting to coil pin 15 when the ignition is turned on, and that coil pin 1 shows pulses (use a test light) when the car is cranked over.
OMG, so much bad advice.
a 1988 240 is LH 2.2, it uses a hall sensor in the distributor NOT a crank position sensor, which was used on LH2.4 in 1989+
the radio suppression relay is only used on 740/940, not on 240.
spark is controlled by the ICU (ignition control unit), not the ECU (fuel injection control unit). on a 1988 240, the ICU is a chrysler unit against the inside of the right fender just behind the headlight.
I would indeed verify that power is getting to coil pin 15 when the ignition is turned on, and that coil pin 1 shows pulses (use a test light) when the car is cranked over.
a 1988 240 is LH 2.2, it uses a hall sensor in the distributor NOT a crank position sensor, which was used on LH2.4 in 1989+
the radio suppression relay is only used on 740/940, not on 240.
spark is controlled by the ICU (ignition control unit), not the ECU (fuel injection control unit). on a 1988 240, the ICU is a chrysler unit against the inside of the right fender just behind the headlight.
I would indeed verify that power is getting to coil pin 15 when the ignition is turned on, and that coil pin 1 shows pulses (use a test light) when the car is cranked over.
did you use Bosch rotor and cap? I don't trust anything else.
when the crankshaft is at TDC with the timing mark on the camshaft pulley is also at its mark, does the distributor rotor point to the #1 spark plug wire? is the carbon 'button' in the center top of the cap intact ?
when the crankshaft is at TDC with the timing mark on the camshaft pulley is also at its mark, does the distributor rotor point to the #1 spark plug wire? is the carbon 'button' in the center top of the cap intact ?
You may want to check if your timing belt is broken. Have a buddy crank the engine while you use a flashlight to peer into the oil filler. You should be able to see the cam lobes turning when your buddy cranks the engine. If they move, confirm what Pierce suggested.
did you use Bosch rotor and cap? I don't trust anything else.
when the crankshaft is at TDC with the timing mark on the camshaft pulley is also at its mark, does the distributor rotor point to the #1 spark plug wire? is the carbon 'button' in the center top of the cap intact ?
when the crankshaft is at TDC with the timing mark on the camshaft pulley is also at its mark, does the distributor rotor point to the #1 spark plug wire? is the carbon 'button' in the center top of the cap intact ?
Greetings he already checked timing belt, it was fine. Good ole 240 keep trying dont give up my friend. Just double check everything again... Might have overlooked something small. Peace and blessings. Alot of hocus pocus on here and dudes just rehearsing literature from Chiltons. I hope you find an honest solution.
Off subject but had a quick question before I tackle this project, 88 Volvo 240 with Bosch ignition, ignition pickup broke the plug and 2 of the wires, when riveting the new one back in is it possible using a Dremel to make several slices on the steel rivets and fold each little section down to secure it? I can't be the first to think about this so it's more than likely a Longshot. Just let me know what you think about that plan.
fyi, an 88 240 has Bosch *injection* but a Chrysler Ignition controller. The distributor and coil may well be Bosch.
as far as rivets for the hall sensor, no idea, thats not someting I ever had to dig into.
as far as rivets for the hall sensor, no idea, thats not someting I ever had to dig into.
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