1988 Volvo 240 DL not starting after timing belt replacement
Okay so before everyone tells me there has been a million forums posted about this (I know because I have read a hundred at this point) none have helped me resolve the issue that I am having. So last friday (the 17th) I was driving my volvo happily long and without warning the engine died. No loud noises nothing strange happening beforehand. Nothing. I tried popping the clutch to restart the motor but that did nothing. All my gauges still worked but the typical lights that come on when your engine is not running came up. I coasted to a stop and popped the hood for a visual inspection and could see nothing wrong. I checked all my fuses in the car, saw no blown fuses and just incase I replaced the blade fuse on the drivers side on the fender. Still nothing. I had my buddy come and we towed the car home because we were close and I came to discover the timing belt broke. Relieved thinking that it was nothing electrical I replaced the belt. I also replaced the 3 seals on the front of the engine and the front seal as well. Did the timing wrong the first time and fixed it so now I am pretty certain that as far as the timing goes everything is right. But now am I getting no spark and no fuel. So on the forums I went and then I bought a fuel pump relay. Replaced that and still nothing. I've done numerous tests I can manually jump start the fuel pumps by direct sending power via the fuse bus. But when I crank over the engine they do not activate and there is no spark. Its driving me mad and I cannot afford to keep replacing parts. Any thoughts or tests I can do to figure this out? I am at a total loss. Also don't know if this matters but when the ignition is off I can take my multi meter and put the negative on the negative side of the coil and the positive on the positive terminal of the battery and read 12v, but when the ignition is on I can read the 12v only if I put the positive side of the multimeter on the positive side of the coil and the negative side on the negative terminal of the batter. I cannot read voltage if I just measure the terminals on the coil. Don't know if that's normal, but there's some more info. help?
a 1988 240 uses LH 2.2 fuel injection, the spark and injection timing comes from the hall sensor in the distributor. this is wired to the chrysler ignition control unit on the right fender behind the headlight. the timing pulses are then sent to the ECU which runs the fuel injection and fuel pumps. so if you have no spark, I'd start with the hall sensor and ICU (ignition control unit)...
btw, its normal to see 12V on both sides of the coil when the engine is on but not running... coil pin 15 is wired to the ignition switch so its powered when the key is "ON". coil pin 1 is wired to the ICU and is pulsed to ground to fire the spark. if there's no timing, then no spark, then pin 1 will also look like 12V
btw, its normal to see 12V on both sides of the coil when the engine is on but not running... coil pin 15 is wired to the ignition switch so its powered when the key is "ON". coil pin 1 is wired to the ICU and is pulsed to ground to fire the spark. if there's no timing, then no spark, then pin 1 will also look like 12V
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