I see several threads about instrument cluster issues, but I didn't find one that matched mine exactly.

I have alert lights, cluster bulb(main dashboard light) and speedometer (no odometer) all working just fine, but that's it. Fuel, Clock, Temp all don't work at all.

I'm just learning here so I have no idea what I'm doing. I did purchase a multimeter but have no idea how to use it to troubleshoot the problem. I'm sure the procedure is similar to ones mentioned in other threads, but honestly I had trouble following what people were talking about.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Assume I know nothing about anything because I don't. I did see a YouTube video on how to remove the cluster and I am fairly confident I can follow that successfully. I'm just not sure what to do once I get it out.

Thanks in advance,

Rob

 

the temp and fuel gauge are on a 3-pin voltage regulator (I think the output is 9V or 10V or something) and this regulator in turn has a tiny little fuse soldered down ...

the clock is powered by a separate always-on power wire, which is off the fuse panel and goes directly to the panel

I'd need to go over the schematics to get more specific, and don't have them in front of me right now.

 

My primary concern is the temp and fuel gauge for now. So I assume I need to use the multimeter somehow to verify that power is making it to that 3 pin regulator then if it's making it that far somehow check that it's making it past the fuse. The problem is that I have no idea how to do that.

My guess is that I would set the multimeter to measure Voltage (I should be able to google how to do that), then put one probe to one of the wires going to one of the 3 pins on the regulator. The other probe would just go to a ground somewhere I guess.

Sorry for the dumb questions. I have zero experience with electrical issues, but I'm trying to learn.

 

Sorry, I know we all have to be positive and encouraging and have that great 'can do' attitude and have all the angels protect us and believe in miracles and all that, but I sincerely doubt that you can repair your own dash given your expressed skill level.
Volvos are relatively simple but it still takes some skill and experience to tackle tricky issues, which is what an instrument pod problem is!

 

yeah, find a friend or someone who's familiar with electronics, watch over their shoulder, have them explain to you what they are doing and why.

they used to teach this stuff in school. i took several electronics classes in Jr HS and HS in the 1960s (yeah, I'm an old fart).

 

I understand the concern, but the whole reason I bought this car was to learn on it. I get that I'll probably royally screw up a lot, but I'm determined to try. I don't depend on the car to get around so if it takes me a bunch of tries and a lot of time to get it figured out then that's ok. I will see if I can find anyone locally to help me, but I've already tried that once without much success. People tend to talk a lot about how much they would love to help only to never show up or always have a reason why they can't at the last minute. I'll keep watching youtube videos and try trial and error until I figure it out.

I know it's frustrating dealing with beginners so I'll come back once I've done enough to be able to ask better more specific questions. Even the little bit of information you gave me is helpful though so thank you for that.

 

well, the regulator is a little black box on the back of the instrument panel with 3 pins coming out the same side, and a metal tab screwed down on the opposite tab. I don't have a 240 handy (my daughter took ours to Portland,OR to go to college), but the diagram shows its between the circular and smiley connectors.

the power comes in on a red-black wire to pin 3 of the 3-pin speedometer connector, this is on with the ignition, and is not on a fuse. this goes to the + input pin of the regulator via a small fuse-that-doesnt-look-like-a-fuse, which should be right near it. this + input pin should be the one closest to the bottom side of the instrument panel.

the middle lead of the regulator is ground, its wired to connector 32 pin 4, a black wire, tahts the main ground to the whole instrument panel. connector 32 is the 'smiley' shaped one.

the top lead of the regulator should be 10V +/- 0.2V (i.e. between 9.8V and 10.2V). when probing this be VERY careful you don't short it to ground thats right next to it, or you WILL blow that fuse or maybe the regulator. This 10V powers the water temp and gas gauge, nothing else.

the clock gets its power on connector 31 pin 9, a white wire that comes from a green wire which comes from fuse 8 and should always be powered. connector 31 is the full circle connector.

for taking volt readings, I would connect the black lead of the volt meter to a chassis ground somewhere clear and out of your way, using a alligator clip or whatever so it stays put. set the meter for VDC (DC Volts). then use the red probe to check voltages of specific things. you should be able to insert it into the back of the various connector pins to verify power is where it should be (31/9, the 3pin pin 3, etc). sometimes a short piece of thin bare wire is handy to probe these if your meter probe won't fit into the back of the connector shell next to the wire.

 

Thank you. I'll give that a shot and see how far I get.