1989 Volvo 240 stalls after 3-4 minutes every time — stumped
1989 240GL B230F with Jetronic 2.4
Having issues with the engine dying 3-4 minutes after startup. From cold, the engine starts and runs fine for a short period before it stalls. After that, each subsequent start gets shorter and shorter until I can't get it to start at all. If I let the car sit for a while, I can start it again and it runs nicely for 3-4 new minutes before stalling again. The stalls are instantaneous and happen without much stumbling/coughing, with one exception: When we tried starting without the AMM/MAF, then reconnected it while the car was idling, it ran okay at first but with fluctuating RPMs. When we plugged the MAF back in, the car ran smoothly and steadily for about 30 seconds before losing RPMs, then revved up just before dying, lost RPMs again, revved up again just before dying, and finally died (it behaved as if someone was sitting in the car trying to prevent it from stalling).
Have already:
Having issues with the engine dying 3-4 minutes after startup. From cold, the engine starts and runs fine for a short period before it stalls. After that, each subsequent start gets shorter and shorter until I can't get it to start at all. If I let the car sit for a while, I can start it again and it runs nicely for 3-4 new minutes before stalling again. The stalls are instantaneous and happen without much stumbling/coughing, with one exception: When we tried starting without the AMM/MAF, then reconnected it while the car was idling, it ran okay at first but with fluctuating RPMs. When we plugged the MAF back in, the car ran smoothly and steadily for about 30 seconds before losing RPMs, then revved up just before dying, lost RPMs again, revved up again just before dying, and finally died (it behaved as if someone was sitting in the car trying to prevent it from stalling).
Have already:
- Replaced the fuel pump relay
- Replaced the crankshaft impulse sensor
- Tested the throttle position sensor
- Replaced the external fuel pump and fuel filter
- Replaced the air filter
- Tested the airflow meter (with an ohmmeter, but unable to measure burn-off)
- Checked that fuse clips aren't losing contact
- Replaced the lambda/O2 sensor
Goldenblock Senior Member here,
Based upon your symptoms it seems like a classic case of a bad or ruptured diaphragm in your rail fuel pressure regulator!
Pull the vacuum hose off it and smell small opening for gas smell, if so the regulator is not holding pressure!!
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Based upon your symptoms it seems like a classic case of a bad or ruptured diaphragm in your rail fuel pressure regulator!
Pull the vacuum hose off it and smell small opening for gas smell, if so the regulator is not holding pressure!!
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Atlanta Craigslist
Shipping Nationwide
Goldenblock Senior Member here,
Based upon your symptoms it seems like a classic case of a bad or ruptured diaphragm in your rail fuel pressure regulator!
Pull the vacuum hose off it and smell small opening for gas smell, if so the regulator is not holding pressure!!
L&D Volvo Redblock parts
Atlanta Craigslist
Shipping Nationwide
Based upon your symptoms it seems like a classic case of a bad or ruptured diaphragm in your rail fuel pressure regulator!
Pull the vacuum hose off it and smell small opening for gas smell, if so the regulator is not holding pressure!!
L&D Volvo Redblock parts
Atlanta Craigslist
Shipping Nationwide
After you have run the car a few times and it won't start, do the fuel pumps run? Run the following diagnosis on the pumps:
https://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm
If the car starts with the fuses jumpered then I suspect you have a failing ECU. '89 versions of the LH 2.4 Jet fuel injection systems had issues with the fuel pump circuit causing them to fail over time.
https://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm
If the car starts with the fuses jumpered then I suspect you have a failing ECU. '89 versions of the LH 2.4 Jet fuel injection systems had issues with the fuel pump circuit causing them to fail over time.
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prongleee
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Apr 4, 2023 10:35 AM



