Hello, 240 Gods,



My 1990 Volvo 240 DL does not crack after I shut off the engine. This issue doesn't always happen. It all started after I replaced the MAF and disconnected the negative battery terminal to reset the CIL code 121 and 322 (I had a rough idle issue). After reconnecting the battery and starting the car, it ran fine until the light started dimming when I rev the engine, and the SRS light will come on and off along with the gauges acting funny (speedo jumps and the temperature gauge goes flat). The car kept going, and the battery light did not illuminate. When I jump start the car, it usually starts.

This intermittent electrical issue happened on three occasions, and it seems to happen after rainy weather. On different occasions, the battery seems to drain, but not always. Any idea where should I start?

NOTE: I was looking to see if the FPR is clicking at when I crank to find standing water in passenger side footwell, I think the leak is coming from the windshield. The ECU is located in that area, could that be the culprit?

I am new to Volvo; any help is much appreciated

Thank you!

 

first thing suggest to check is the big red wire that goes from the positive battery terminal to the starter.
the starter end is exposed to the elements and can get corroded. i'm assuming you have a good/tested battery.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I will check the battery lead to the starter motor to eliminate that issue. My battery is good because a minute after jump-starting the car, it can then start on its own. Like I said this issue doesn't always happen!

 

while you're at it you may want to also check/clean the main ground wire from the battery and the connection on the alternator
coming from the battery....

 

Also, check the alternator output/ charging system.
The FPR never clicks but it is not at play in this, neither is the ECU, but it shouldn't be wet anyway.

 

actually, the fact that a minute of jumping it to another car is sufficient for it to crank is a strong indication your battery IS dead.

next time it won't crank, measure the battery voltage. if its below about 12.3V, you need a new battery. after installing the new battery and starting the car, with it idling, check the voltage, it should be at least 13.8V at idle with a fully charged battery, otherwise your alternator (or more likely the regulator/brush assembly on the alternator) is not doing its thing. if you see 13.6-13.8V at idle, turn the headlights on, turn on the a/c fan on high, and the rear window defroster, and measure the voltage again, it should still be at least 13.4V or so at idle,a nd if you give it any gas to rev up a bit, it should return to 13.6-13.8V

 

Thank you! It looks like cleaning the battery leads sorted the issue. I thought they were clean but I gave it a good sanding and now it starts every time. I still have the low idle and sputter on cold start with code 121 though but I am glad that I don't have to jump-start it each time!

 

I followed Silvermine steps to locate what I thought was a drain issue (rookie mistake for not cleaning the battery terminal well). I preformed the tets with a voltmeter and here are the results:

With load (high beam, defroster, blower fan, and seat warmers ): 12.5
Without load: 13.9

Revving the car did not seem to boost or lower the voltage. My battery was not fully charged at that time, I should test again to confirm in a few days. Thanks, fo the tips!

 

Thank you for your input.