1990 Volvo 240Dl starting problem

Old Aug 21, 2018 | 12:39 AM
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Default 1990 Volvo 240Dl starting problem

Hello, I have a 1990 240 dl, awhile back the engine mounts broke and I got the engine up and ready and everything, i then tried to start the car and it would start have trouble and then die. I gave up on it for a bit seeing how I wouldn't be able to drive it right away a few weeks later I go out and it starts right up no problem only used it once every two weeks or so just to drive it around the block and home , yesterday i replaced the water pump because it had a water leak on the gasket timing belt and everything was good looking so I didnt replace anything else water leak is gone and my car drove great had a slight shake in engine when starting but once warmed up it ran great all day. I got home went to bed and today i go out to start it and something happened, I turn the key over it fires up then glugs a little I try to press the accelerator but nothing and it dies. Now it will crank but it wont start and you can smell gas from the front of the vehicle. I believe it might be flooded but I'm not 100% sure , i dont know what to do now. What should I do?
 
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 08:15 PM
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Well, hard to say exactly. Could be the Coolant Temp Sensor, the MAFS, fuel problem, air leak after the MAFS... Have to determine if it's fuel or spark, first... I squirt starting fluid in the intake to see if it's lack of fuel...
 
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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 12:05 AM
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been chasing a similiar problem. Its getting better but not where I want it. First check all you rubber lines that plug into the intake. (mine were all cracked). Then look for any crack in the intake hose between the MAF and throttle body. (Fix if needed). IF still bad drop main fuel pump with filter. Replace filter check f.pump. While your at it put your ear in the trunk and see if you can here the intank pump run? Check fuel lines for cracks etc. Oh yeh get some Carb. cleaner and clean the thottle body.
I did all this, my car will idle but starts and dies a couple of times. Where before it would take for ever to get it running. This isnt probably the best order but its what Ive done. Do a search and you will find better info. Thakns
 
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Old Aug 31, 2018 | 10:34 AM
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Okay so I did some looking around and found a split fuel line replaced it car started up but the next morning it wouldn't start again after sitting for awhile it starts up and runs until I drive around then it wont start for awhile again. I've followed everything and now this is where I'm at

when it finally started I got a lot of black smoke coming from exhaust, I have spark, it is a fuel issue, I believe it is a leaking fuel injector but want to see everyone opinions before I drop 300 on all brand new injectors,
when it started finally i had a lot of black smoke burning off at first when I drove it and parked it, (i work overnights) the next morning it wouldn't start., car starts and drives intermittently I'll drive it for a trip or two shut off for the day but the next day it wont start and it wont start for awhile I'm realizing, strong smell of gas in engine, and I was checking my oil last night and for some reason decided to smell my dipstick because my oil looked off and it smells strongly of gas so theres gas in my oil. I didnt have a socket to pull the spark plugs or I would of checked them to see if any were flooded. And the code off the reader is 113. and I've seen a few posts saying it's a code for the fuel injectors but I'm not 100% what do you all think?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2018 | 10:38 AM
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check the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. does it have gas in it?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2018 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by silvermine
check the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. does it have gas in it?
my cars at work right now, all the tools I need to work on it are there so I i can do anything that needs to be done I will check tonight, If I do find gas in the vacuum line what does it mean?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2018 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by DrHippo
my cars at work right now, all the tools I need to work on it are there so I i can do anything that needs to be done I will check tonight, If I do find gas in the vacuum line what does it mean?
it would mean the fuel pressure regulator is bad, but could that cause gas in the oil too
 
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Old Aug 31, 2018 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by silvermine
check the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. does it have gas in it?
oh snap was actually reading up on it and the symptoms to the fuel pressure regulator are actually closer then a leaking fuel injector. I'll have to actually check both and I'll pull my spark plugs tonight and check them also
 
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Old Aug 31, 2018 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by silvermine
check the vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. does it have gas in it?
I did check it actually smelled of gas but i dont believe gas was present at the time I checked didnt realize that was the vacuum line honestly until looking more on it, though now you mention it, I forgot to mention when my car would start it would die shortly after and pressing the gas pedal did nothing. Except cause the car to stall
 
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Old Aug 31, 2018 | 03:36 PM
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sounds like the FPR is bad. it could account for your issues. if a new one cures the hard start, then you should change
the engine oil right away. gas in oil = not good.
 

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Old Sep 1, 2018 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by silvermine
sounds like the FPR is bad. it could account for your issues. if a new one cures the hard start, then you should change
the engine oil right away. gas in oil = not good.
well I changed the FPR and I then changed the oil and cleaned the spark plugs the had black on them, it fired up after that when it fired it kinda of gurgled and I very lightly pressed the gas to see if it would try to stall and it did try so I let it sit there and it went from gurgling to higher rpms on it's own (I assume burning out the extra fuel in there?) Then back to normal operating idle. I came out about 10 hours later and same thing gurgle increased rpms for a bit then drops to normal idle. Still not sure if the no start will come back but its acting the same as before when it started.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 07:03 AM
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did you clear the code 113 after you did the repair?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 07:24 AM
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Did you happen to clean the MAF sensor. Did you also clean the throttle body and reset the TPS .
 
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Old Sep 2, 2018 | 09:05 AM
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this thread contains the resistance figures for the coolant temperature sensor
you may want to check that as well


https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/fo...ic.php?t=48031
 
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
Did you happen to clean the MAF sensor. Did you also clean the throttle body and reset the TPS .
I didnt, i bought some stuff to clean it all and that was what i was doing next, i also bought a multimeter to be able to start testing everything.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 09:37 AM
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Throttle body was actually decently clean already and it looks like a new gasket I pulled my entire air intake out and inside the air intake manifold was gas all throughout the tubing. I pulled it and set those aside to try and let them dry out but any way to clean the plastic didnt want to use the cleaners I bought, the maf sensor looked fairly clean too I still cleaned it, I didnt want to pull the throttle body off but it looks clean and the gasket is good.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by DrHippo
Throttle body was actually decently clean already and it looks like a new gasket I pulled my entire air intake out and inside the air intake manifold was gas all throughout the tubing. I pulled it and set those aside to try and let them dry out but any way to clean the plastic didnt want to use the cleaners I bought, the maf sensor looked fairly clean too I still cleaned it, I didnt want to pull the throttle body off but it looks clean and the gasket is good.
well not that I didnt want to pull it off didnt see a reason to seeing how it looks like decently clean.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 09:41 AM
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I did test the fuel injectors, couldnt find the exact resistance but they all have the exact same resistance, I do think my fuel pressure regulator was leaking and that's what caused the gas in the air intake, because before replacing I could smell gas heavy, after replacing I do not smell gas.i also found an oil leak here (this is not my vehicle, was just looking for a picture of where the oil was leaking from it seems to have a slight gap on the top of it so I will need to get to it and replace it.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 09:52 AM
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There seems be a pretty big gap in the seal of the oil seperator, also where the oil is leaking out could this possibly cause other problems or be the cause of oil being on my spark plugs
 
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Old Sep 3, 2018 | 09:56 AM
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Now that I think about it it wasnt much and could it be coming back from my air intake end because there was a good amount of gas left in the part before the maf connected to the throttle body .
 
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