I have the new rear cam seal, and the valve cover off, and the replacement valve cover gasket...Looking for as many details and advice as I can get to proceed.
In looking around there are a LOT of references to this but not many specifics.
My main concern is removing and replacing the "Cam cap" to get at the seal.
I have heard that it is a bit touchy as to how much you tighten it down. There was a reference to 15 lbs of torque but I don't know if that is accurate.
All advice is welcome. I'm ready to go but want to do it right.
Thanks in advance.

 

Are you referring to the camshaft seal behind the sprocket? In the back there is only a rubber grommet that you can replace by taking off the valve cover....

Take a look at these two pictures one of the front head and the rear view.

Camshaft bearing cap bolts: 15 Ft-lbs

Valve cover bolts: 108 in-lbs or (9 Ft-lbs ?) careful...I over did it one time by hand. Very little force.

Use a screw driver through the sprocket holes to keep it from turning or a Harbor freight pulley holder...12 dollars...

Camshaft Sprocket bolt: 37 Ft-lbs

 

Book says to use a special tool or a flat head screw driver and pry it out without scratching any surface.....? right....small thin screw like a drywall screw and twist it inside the seal enough to where it will slip out as you pull the screw....one screw on both sides so you can pull equally...

HEY,,,,IT POPPED IN MY HEAD...! a fish hook on opposite sides will do...as they are very thin and sharp...it should pick it out fine...

 

I was referring to the round cam seal/cap between the valve cover/head and the fire wall. I just put it back together. Letting it set as I put a bit of silicone gasket dressing on the edges of the seal and the valve cover gasket.
After the fact my concerns are...
When putting the "Cam cap" on top of the round seal, (Vertical in the block wall) it is impossible to see if it is lining up with the proper seating in the cam cap. Same thing when replacing the valve cover, the portion of the valve cover gasket that is to follow the curve of the front and rear cam caps wants to stick up above the surface. You can't put the cover on knowing for sure that they seated perfectly. I guess I will know the answer to both tomorrow when I start it up. Next, replace the water pump gaskets that have a small leak and change the timing belt. Any advice on the timing belt?

 

I didn't think you had to take the valve cover off to fix either the rear plug or the front seal ?

 

I based my strategy on the following that I saw on a post...

1. remove vaccum hoses & other stuff from over valve cover

2. remove 10mm acorn nuts from valve cover. obviously, you'll need a new valve cover gasket & new cam seal

3. with cam exposed, remove the rear cam journal cap. if you examine the cap, there's a spot to pry with a flat screwdriver. cam journal nuts are 13mm but if i remember correctly. loosen one. loosen the other. then remove both nuts.

4. pry cam journal cap upwards. carefully of course.

5. you'll have either a) exposed the seal or b) it will be stuck in the journal cap.

6. clean entire area, head where valve cover gasket used to be, & cam journal cap. be very careful. take your time.

7. cam cap back on. retorque cam cap bolts to 15 ft lbs!!!! tighten one. then other. torque after both nuts are snug.

8. i use ultra copper silicone on the edge of the seal. simply, push it in with your fingers or a block of wood. set the new seal flush with the head -or a little more than flush- but no more. cupped side of the seal faces inward!! ask me how i know this??? i usually put a little silicone on my finger and go (by feel) around the seal at the end of the job.

9. i use a thin bead of the ultra copper on the entire head. place valve cover gasket down over studs. then, valve cover. tighten inside to outside. do not over-torque the v.cover bolts!!! good & tight is all you need.

10. the rest is the reverse of the above.

11. clean or replace all the components of the pvc system for good "you love your volvo" measure. ask me how i know this??? or, why it's important to replacing the seal?

 

I see, I thought you thought there was a seal in the back as in the front....

for the front cam seal I would not take off the valve cover...as I can just pick it out of there by removing the sprocket only...

as for the rubber grommet...I replaced it with the valve cover off as I was replacing the valve cover gasket...just placed it there and put back the valve cover off....used a mirror to see what it looked like back there.

 

Timing belt is piece of cake.....

remove fan 10mm nuts
remove rad cover
undo tension in alternator to remove alt belts....
remove timing belt cover...10mm and 12mm sockets?
Do not remove the Crankshaft pulley....
as you can wiggle the old timing belt by sliding it between the Crank pulley and the sprocket behind it...two hand thing...you must angle the belt with its teeth side towards the back of Crank pulley...slide down. and its out....easy....use a spray degreaser to spray behind the Crank pulley as there is oil and crud there so when you slide the new belt through, it won't get oil or stuff on ...
Crank Pulley nut is 22mm to turn and align it with mark
Distributor car off
align the middle part of the rotor (eyeball) with the little notch on the Distributor body...it might be dusty and you might need to move(gently push) the plastic cap/seal that sits under the rotor to see where the marks is as it sometimes covers it. Turn the middle sprocket to turn the rotor..

And as you know..the little notch on the camshaft sprocket has a dimple that aligns with the plastic between sprocket and valve cover...

I use large channel lock pliers to tension the tensioner and have a little allen wrench to stick inside the hole...first unscrew the tensioner nut...

Tensioner nut torque: 37 Ft-Lbs
If you take off the Crank pulley nut..: 44 Ft-Lbs..then an additional 60 degrees.

 

Just a little late... but for future use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fm3CZU7l0Gs