1992 240 wagon won't start
#1
1992 240 wagon won't start
HI,
I've exhausted my usual quick fixes for getting my 240 to start. Usually I can just spin some fuses and it'll go. Not this time.
It had been doing the stutter almost die symptom when I would go over a bump. This time it died and wouldn't start.
It'll crank and almost fire. You can smell gas. I can't really hear the fuel pumps; but as I said you can smell gas under the hood. I've replaced the fuel relay. The fuses are all good. I've read about a box on the firewall that is bad on some volvos but the only things on the firewall directly behind the engine are 2 wire harness connections points. They seem ok. I tapped on the fuel pumps. I haven't checked to see if they have power.
I recently cleaned the MAF (because of a previous stall). I also checked for any split vacuum hoses. I didn't find anything wrong.
When this would stutter or die (but be able to restart) previously, it would run perfectly when it was running; though one time I had to "2 foot" it home to keep the revs up. (its an automatic).
Any ideas?
The car only has 174k and I think it might be a goner
I've exhausted my usual quick fixes for getting my 240 to start. Usually I can just spin some fuses and it'll go. Not this time.
It had been doing the stutter almost die symptom when I would go over a bump. This time it died and wouldn't start.
It'll crank and almost fire. You can smell gas. I can't really hear the fuel pumps; but as I said you can smell gas under the hood. I've replaced the fuel relay. The fuses are all good. I've read about a box on the firewall that is bad on some volvos but the only things on the firewall directly behind the engine are 2 wire harness connections points. They seem ok. I tapped on the fuel pumps. I haven't checked to see if they have power.
I recently cleaned the MAF (because of a previous stall). I also checked for any split vacuum hoses. I didn't find anything wrong.
When this would stutter or die (but be able to restart) previously, it would run perfectly when it was running; though one time I had to "2 foot" it home to keep the revs up. (its an automatic).
Any ideas?
The car only has 174k and I think it might be a goner
#2
Have you checked the crank position sensor? It is located on the top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet. It has a fat black wire that looks like coax cable and runs to a connector on the firewall. Check the wire for cracked and flaking insulation. If the insulation is coming off, then it needs replacement.
To check the fuel pumps follow the instructions here: In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender
Other culprits could be the fuel pressure regulator. It is found at the front of the fuel rail. Pull the vacuum hose off and check for gas. If gas comes out then it is shot.
To check the fuel pumps follow the instructions here: In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender
Other culprits could be the fuel pressure regulator. It is found at the front of the fuel rail. Pull the vacuum hose off and check for gas. If gas comes out then it is shot.
#3
The problem is the secondary fuel pump. Now the challenge is to get it out.
So far I've got 2 of the 3 bolts out that hold the "carriage" to the underside of the car. the 3rd one is the rear one attached to the strap. So I can bend the carriage down and access everything. I've got the strap off of the fuel filter. So, that is free. and the fuel line came off the "in" side of the fuel pump without a problem. Also the 2 power wires for the pump came off, no problem.
All 3 banjo bolts are rusted solid. Also rusted is the 10mm bolt that is on the strap around the fuel pump. An of course the 3rd bolt on the carriage.
Can I just get new banjo bolts and cut the fuel line? Are there any hacks that bypass this mess?
I've been spraying these with penetrating oil everyday for a few days now. So, thats my plan as-of-now.
Any suggestions?
So far I've got 2 of the 3 bolts out that hold the "carriage" to the underside of the car. the 3rd one is the rear one attached to the strap. So I can bend the carriage down and access everything. I've got the strap off of the fuel filter. So, that is free. and the fuel line came off the "in" side of the fuel pump without a problem. Also the 2 power wires for the pump came off, no problem.
All 3 banjo bolts are rusted solid. Also rusted is the 10mm bolt that is on the strap around the fuel pump. An of course the 3rd bolt on the carriage.
Can I just get new banjo bolts and cut the fuel line? Are there any hacks that bypass this mess?
I've been spraying these with penetrating oil everyday for a few days now. So, thats my plan as-of-now.
Any suggestions?
#5
I wouldn't cut the hard nylon fuel line as it isn't easy to splice. I would still try to get the tray off, disconnect the banjo bolt off the fuel filter and then disconnect the fuel line running into the pump. If you can't get the hose clamp off that connects the fuel line running from the tank to the pump, then just cut the end off that line and buy a new clamp.
When dealing with rusty bolts it is always good to use 6 point sockets to avoid rounding off the bolt heads.
When dealing with rusty bolts it is always good to use 6 point sockets to avoid rounding off the bolt heads.
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xDread92x
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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03-31-2013 02:18 PM