So I finished my head gasket job and the car wont start. It doesn't even crank properly. It just makes a whirring noise consistent with how long I hold the key on start. I try to follow the timing marks but its bull**** because my crank wont line up with zero and allow the crank tool to lock so I can tighten it and keep it on zero. The tool will only lock when the crank is a little ways before zero. The gas smell is very rich and its flooding. I need to get this car on the road ASAP and I am pretty lost and beyond pissed at this point. I think i will get a new or used crank pulley because mine is old and the rubber is all warped. But the car should still start. I have adjusted the timing belt three times and there is still no change. The same whirring noise and the engine doesn't even crank properly. Usually the whole engine shakes and it will go, eh-eh-eh-eh. You know how an engine properly cranks. I am getting spark and plenty of fuel. Everything is properly connected. I don't know what happend but something may have gotten ****ed up during the last few weeks. Let me know something. Peace.

 

It is your TIMING! If the crank pulley is bad, change it!
How have you adjusted the timing belt? Look up the procedure and follow aligning the marks. I use a mirror to make sure all is lined up.

 

Yea but what do I do if I get another pulley and the zero still wont line up? I also did the timing three times already and this last time I should be VERY close. The car would still start but would probably run horribly. I adjusted the timing three times and it hasn't tried starting differently. It should start differently. I lined up all of my cam, intermediate, and crank marks. Sprocket on rear cover mark, Distributor at 8 oclock, Crank sprocket and washer at 11oclock.

 

The car should still crank properly also even if the timing is slightly off. Where is this whirring coming from? The engine isn't even engaging when I try to start it.

 

IF need be, I can post a video of what it is doing.

 

Oh, you mean the STARTER is not engaging? The "whirring" could be the starter spinning but the solenoid not shooting the spindle into the flywheel... You may need a new starter. Did this just start? Not having this issue before? Try it several times, usually it will catch eventually.

 

INSTRUCTIONS ARE: BOOK AND 4 head gasket jobs and 6 timing belt replacements with two torn new belts due to v belts...

IF THE ENGINE DOES NOT START....TURN CRANKSHAFT A FULL 360 degrees back to mark IGNORE THE STUPID PLASTIC LIP WITH THE NUMBERS ON....USE THE SPROCKET NOTCH BEHIND THE CRANK PULLEY AND ALIGN WITH THE MARK ON THE BLOCK...OR FIND A LITTLE CUP-CAKE SPRINKLE SIZE RIB TO ALIGN THE SPROCKET NOTCH....you might have to spray carb cleaner inside to clear off the oil/gunk in order to see the notch and other mark...
CRANK THE ENGINE WITHOUT ATTACHING ANY AUXILIARY V BELTS....SPECIALLY THE ALTERNATOR...ATTACH THEM AFTER...AS THESE FREAKING BELTS CAUSES TENSION ON YOUR FIRST START AND MAKING THE TIMING BELT SKIP OR BIND THE WHOLE CRANK MOVEMENT.....YOU SHOULD BE FINE THEN.
PS. TO ALIGN INTERMEDIATE SPROCKET...I TAKE OFF THE DIST CAP AND SPIN THE SPROCKET BY HAND UNTIL THE ROTOR ALIGNS WITH THE HAIR NOTCH ON THE DISTRIBUTOR...WIPE AWAY DIRT TO SEE IT...EYEBALL ROTOR CENTER TO THAT LITTLE NOTCH ON THE DISTRIBUTOR LIP WHERE IT TOUCHES THE CAP...

 

what brand timing belt are you using?

I have had horrible results with certain ones but CONTITECH is my favorite...I have compared CONTITECH with one other (autozone) brand and the later seems that the teeth are fuzzy as if rubbing off the material way too soon, not strong enough, kind of powdered rubber material....rubs off bad....like cheap break pads

 

Thanks alot guys. I am using a goodyear timing belt. Its very sturdy and thick and should hold up well. I think my issue is the oscillation dampener in my crank. This crank pulley has almost 300,000 miles on it. It has been slipping and that would explain all of my squeaks prior to changing this head gasket. The rubber on my is all warped and some of it is missing actually. I thought it was my belts being squeaky but i can guarantee it is my dampener. The crank pulley has nothing to do with the timing belt or the cars timing. It has to do with the ignition timing so I was told which would explain my sluggish start. Also, the flooding of fuel is just coming from me constantly trying to start it and the car not starting. After a while the fuel has no where to go so it builds up. Once the car gets started the fuel situation will work itself out. I feel once I put on a new or good crank pulley I will be able to properly align my ignition timing and this baby should start right up. Because like I said before even if my timing was off on the belt the car would still run but run like ****. I have fixed the timing belt three times and it still starts the same so I know there is another problem because there is no change. ALSO, I should be VERY close to the right time. So this car should start regardless whether it runs like a champ or like a saturn. I think I am on a good path here and if this is not it then I will readjust the timing again. Let me know thoughts guys. Thanks alot.

 

Also I have never had any starter issues before and my battery is just a few months old. I thought it was the starter but my dad said its trying to crank and that if the starter was bad then the car wouldn't even do that.

 

hell yes, your crank pulley then...if it is all warped and pieces missing you will be there all day...

 

actually, a 1992 240 is LH2.4, which uses a crank position sensor on the back of the engine that reads flywheel timing marks for ALL ignition and injection timing. this can't slip.

the distributor on a 240 is run off the intermediate shaft, which is run off the timing belt, this has to be close-enough such that the rotor is pointed at the right pin on the cap when the spark fires, but it doesn't need to be precise.

when the harmonic balancer thing on the crank pulley slips, then the timing mark on the pulley is in the wrong place. pull the #1 spark plug, put a probe like a wooden dowel rod in the hole, and turn the crank til the piston is at TDC (by feel). is the notch on the pulley at 12 oclock ?

 

I have the camshaft sprocket aligned with the mark on the rear timing belt cover. I have the distributor at 8 oclock on the notch. I have the crank sprocket and washer lined up with the ridge on the block at 11 oclock. I was told to forget the ZERO on the lower timing belt cover and line the crank pulley up at 11 oclock also. Is this true? Or should I set the pulley at the ZERO? Thanks.

 

When setting the intermediate shaft, it should be aligned to a mark on the rear timing belt cover just as the camshaft sprocket. Don't know where the distributer shows at this time as I never looked at it.

Take a look at the diagrams here:

Engine. Seals, Belts, Crankcase Ventilation

Its for the 740/940 but the 249 engine is the same.

 

when you align the intermediate sprocket with the timing belt cover, the distributor rotor is facing plug # 1, in firing order, or the little notch on the distributor...same thing.

 

the major difference is, most 740/940's have the distributor on the back of the camshaft, rather than the side of the engine block like a 240. with the distributor on the back of the camshaft, the intermediate shaft timing no longer matters (but... POX on the mechanic who doesn't line it up correctly on principle).

 

Thanks guys. I am still waiting on this crank pulley to arrive. So until then I will be playing the waiting game. I will let you guys know what I come up with afterwards.

 

something new today....regarding 740/940 the
intermediate sprocket is left out of the mark
aligning process....good to know...it's right
because the camshaft would align the rotor
in correct firing order...right?

 

Yes...if it is a cam mounted distributor.

 

Ok everyone. I think I have located my real issue. I think my timing belt is slipping and wont catch. Thats what the constant whirring sound is. I have noticed every time that I have messed with the timing and placed the belt on the marks that when I try to start it and look back at the timing belt, the marks are no longer where they were before. I researched and one guy said that he had to result to using his old tensioner. I will try this and see what happens. It looks just a hair larger than the new one I bought. I got it off of the volvo site so i don't understand why it is not fitting. But we all know that just a hair in difference can be a huge different in the timing. Let me know thoughts asap. I will keep researching. Thanks all!!!