1992 Volvo 240 Won't start or crank properly after head gasket job

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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 02:43 PM
  #21  
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OH!!!!! I almost forgot that also my crank pulley isn't locking when I put it on. It just constantly spins on the crank shaft. I don't understand why. I have the crank sprocket and two washers that were pulled off when I took the car apart. My set up is first washer on, then sprocket with the key hole at the ridge at 11oclock, and then the outside washer, tapered end on the inside with the key hole at 11oclock also. I put the new pulley on and I can just spin it freely on the shaft and its not locking in. This could also be part of my problem. Thanks again.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 02:50 PM
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'got it off the volvo site' ? which 'volvo' site was that?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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I always use swedishautoparts.com. They have the fastest shipping and I get my parts within a day.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 03:06 PM
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Also, I noticed in one video i was watching the guy put his timing belt on with the arrows going left. I put mine on with the arrows going right. Could I have the timing belt on backwards. This is while standing in front of the car looking at the pulleys.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 03:08 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by xDread92x
OH!!!!! I almost forgot that also my crank pulley isn't locking when I put it on. It just constantly spins on the crank shaft. I don't understand why. I have the crank sprocket and two washers that were pulled off when I took the car apart. My set up is first washer on, then sprocket with the key hole at the ridge at 11oclock, and then the outside washer, tapered end on the inside with the key hole at 11oclock also. I put the new pulley on and I can just spin it freely on the shaft and its not locking in. This could also be part of my problem. Thanks again.
This doesn't make sense. If the sprocket and the crank damper are installed correctly with the correct key and they are the correct parts nothing should spin freely . Also the tensioner is spring loaded and after the adjustment is made it doesn't make a difference if the replacement one is slightly larger or smaller. Check the key and key way.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 03:11 PM
  #26  
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I'm pretty sure off the top of my head that the crank and therefore the belt rotates clockwise as you face the front of the engine, so the top of the belt would be going to your right, the cars left..
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 03:18 PM
  #27  
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Ok, well I am going to head down and try everything again. I am still going to go with the old tensioner because I just seen afew more cases while researching where that fixed many of the issues. Thanks guys I will be back.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 03:24 PM
  #28  
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if your crank pulley is slipping on the shaft, ALL BETS ARE OFF.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 04:45 PM
  #29  
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Your pulley should not spin...it has a matching notch that slips on a small tooth on the sprocket behind the pulley....no exceptions...either you got a different car pulley or you broke off the tooth on the sprocket...
 
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 08:02 PM
  #30  
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Alright everyone, it was my timing that was the problem. With the new pulley she is running like a dream. Only issue is that as I was tightening the alternator mounting bolt it broke off in the block. I bought a ****ty bolt extractor and the bit broke off when i was using it and I only got about 1/8th of an inch in the bolt. So I couldn't extract it. I rigged some lock ties on the alternator to and then to a hard line down near the body sturdy enough to hold it and she ran great. Only problem was that the blades in the alternator hit it and made a horrible noise. So I cut those and I think I am going to try and wrap some ties around the outside of the alternator and back to the same place so i can keep thos belts tight. As of now with nothing holding them they are too loose and the car won't stay running. So I will have to rig it temporarily until I can figure out how to extract that bolt so I can put the new on in that I have. I am new to extracting bolts and have no knowledge so any help would be appreciated. There were quite afew bolts that broke on me throughout this head gasket job. They were just very old I guess. Other than that I have a coolant leak somewhere. It may be coming from the gasket on the water pump although although I put on a new one. I have another one and will put it on and see what happens. Well thanks all and after I fix these few kinks she should be on the road running well!
 
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 06:23 PM
  #31  
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if you used a non-volvo brand water pump, odds are pretty good that the gaskets it came with were junk. the one that goes up under the head in particular is prone to leaking with non-volvo seals, a real volvo seal will generally work without hassle. one alternative is to use some permatex silicone sealant on the non-volvo seal, that will usually work, too.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 07:41 PM
  #32  
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I will have to double check on where it is leaking exactly. I think it is just the gasket. The seals should be fine. I saw some residue coming from the thermostat also. I replaced that seal a few months ago but I guess its time to replace it again. It didnt look bad. Just a little gunky. Any ideas on how to get the bolt extracted from the block?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 01:25 AM
  #33  
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Pro Grabit Damaged Screw Remover

from Home Depot or online....same thing happened to me.....about 20 bucks
 
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 02:18 PM
  #34  
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Alright guys. Sounds good!
 
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