Hi, I just checked the scanner. It gave error code 113. I looked on the error code list and it said fuel injector. Is there any thing else that 113 code could allude to besides bad or dirty fuel injectors? Symptoms are rough idle and eating more gas than usual. Car seems to drive normal. I looked at the plugs. They don't seem worn at all but are covered in black soot. Any ideas as to what I should check? I was thinking about starting by buying fuel injector cleaner. Thanks

 

All kinds of things can cause a 113 code. In my case it was a combination of a bad ECU and a bad O2sensor. If your replacing the O2 make sure you get the bosch replacement..

 

I agree with checking the o2 sensor. During idle you should see the voltage on the large green wire swing quickly between .2 and .8 VDC with everything connected, you have to peel back the rubber boot on the connector to get access to it.

 

Bubba am I correct in assuming when you say .2 to .8 your meaning less than one volt? I'm getting what I read as .5 to 1.5 volts...

Only code I'm pulling is 232 but no C/E light...

 

So, correct me if I am reading this wrong. I have to idle the car and go under it with a DC meter. Next I put the positive lead to the green wire and the black to ground and it should read below 1 volt at idle? Also the code I got was 113. According to a list I got online says that alerts to fuel injectors. Is it possible to clean them out with chemicals from the store shelf? Symptoms are check engine light is on, car has rough idle and is eating more gas than normal but seems to run OK has normal acceleration and top speeds. Failed emissions test.

 

You are correct but the easiest place to take the measurement is on the passenger firewall where the three o2 wires connect to the main harness.

For your LH2.4 system, code 113 means "Mixture incorrect;(or) O2S wiring fault"
For the different Motronic 1.8 system it means "Fault in Injector 1,2,4"

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...neOBDCodes.htm

 

Thanks for the reply.So, I am assuming that the wiring is not incorrect since I have not touched it. So the 113 may mean mixture incorrect so that can be caused by the O2 sensor not measuring correctly. I guess it is worth a try to change it. Question. I have seen some universal sensors on Ebay for around $20. Does anyone have any experience with these? Are they generally Chinese junk or worth a try?
Also they are sold with different wire configurations. At any rate, thanks for the heads up about getting the reading from the passenger fire wall. Could you point me to a pic where I can find it exactly?. Thanks

 

Throweasy I would suggest just splurging for the bosch O2. I bought one of the cheaper ones and am now pretty sure it is what's causing my 113 code and high idle. I'm gonna get the bosch in the next couple of days and I'll report back if it fixed it or not. My 240 also failed smog but it turned out to be the ECU. Found one at the junkyard for $30. You can also be failed for a bad gas cap. Mine was bad but you couldn't tell by looking at it. It was running real rich, lots of fumes, poor gas mileage etc.. Once I put the new brain in it straightened right out. You also want to consider cleaning the throttle body. Fairly easy job. Do a search here I've seen lots of topics on it. Cheers

 

Did you gt the Bosch O2 and install it? Did it make a difference. I have seen positive feedbacks on Ebay for the cheaper O2 sensors. Many people have reported that they work fine for them. The difference is $25 compared to $100 or thereabouts.

 

Hello, The reading I'm getting is steady. Do you mean if good, the O2 sensor reading should fluctuate quickly back and forth between .2 and .8 or should it be a steady reading somewhere between those two points? Thanks

 

Bubba,
The reading I'm getting is steady. Do you mean if good, the O2 sensor reading should fluctuate quickly back and forth between .2 and .8 or should it be a steady reading somewhere between those two points? Thanks

 

Yes. This happens as the ECU constantly tries to balance the mixture between lean and rich.

Code 113 + plus a steady (non-changing) voltage on the green wire = you can be 95.33% sure that the O2 sensor is bad

 

A rich condition can also be caused by a clogged air filter. Happened to me on my 740 turbo. Looking at the air filter, it really didn't look that bad. But I was getting poor acceleration up hills with black smoke blowing out the back.

 

I think the air filter is fairly new. Besides the car is not sluggish, it pretty much rides with normal power. It is idling rough and eating more gas than usual. Since I am getting a steady reading at the green wire of the O2 I am going to go with what Bubba says. I am ordering the O2. Also recently the main pipe from the engine had fallen off right where it connects to the catylitic converter and I had gone though puddles after snow storms so I am thinking that maybe salt got into the pipe where the O2 sits and has ruined the O2 sensor. It makes sense. Thank you Bubba.

 

Hey, The sensor seems to have one green and two white wires. When splicing on the new one how do you tell which white one goes with which or does it matter? Does the hardness of wires on the sensor itself pop off so that you can just pop it back onto the new one or do the wires have to get spliced? Thanks

 

I'd pull out one injector at a time to see if one is leaking. crank a little and see!!!

 

Throweasy, I'm not sure what or why your splicing wires. Next the passenger side shock tower you should have a plastic connector where the two white wires plug into, and a rubber boot/prong type connector for the green wire. Should be no splicing necessary. I have not gotten the bosch O2 yet because I have a pretty substantial exhaust leak which it looks like is contibuting to my problem. Could be misleading the O2 which in turn could be sending batty signals to the brain. Gonna fix the leaks first, then if that doesn't stop my high idle I'll get the bosch O2...