91 240 fault code 113- help
#1
91 240 fault code 113- help
i have a 91 240 b230f engine with 180,000 miles.
it was originally having issues with low idle on cold starts- when it warmed up, the idle was fine. so, we replaced the idle control valve, cleaned the flame trap, cleaned the throttle body. it idles much better when cold now, but as soon as the car warms up (about half way up the temp gauge) the check engine light comes on - code 113, fault in injector- and white smoke starts to come out of the tailpipe.
we've tested the injector leads and all are good. is a clogged injector the only other cause-- or could a bad coolant temp sensor cause this code?
anyone have any ideas?
it was originally having issues with low idle on cold starts- when it warmed up, the idle was fine. so, we replaced the idle control valve, cleaned the flame trap, cleaned the throttle body. it idles much better when cold now, but as soon as the car warms up (about half way up the temp gauge) the check engine light comes on - code 113, fault in injector- and white smoke starts to come out of the tailpipe.
we've tested the injector leads and all are good. is a clogged injector the only other cause-- or could a bad coolant temp sensor cause this code?
anyone have any ideas?
#2
#4
presumably, your 1991 240 is "LH 2.4" injection. 'fault in injector' is a Motronic 1.8 code used on 960's with the straight 6-cyl 'white block' engines
Engine and OBD Diagnostic Codes
Engine and OBD Diagnostic Codes
#6
the O2 sensor is screwed into the exhaust downpipe just forward of the catalytic converter, under the car, about where the passenger front seat is.
its connectors are clipped to the firewall under the hood, there's two of them, a square 2-pin connector (power for the O2 sensor heater circuit), and a round 1-pin connector, they are near the wiper motor on a 240 (near the top of the right side of the firewall). unplug the round one, take a couple inch long thin strand of copper wire (like, a single strand from a lamp cord), and wrap one end a turn or two around the connector pin, then reconnect it. use a digital volt meter on a low DC volts setting, start the car, wait for it to warm up and put the red probe on that little wire (I wrap the wire around the probe so I don't have to hold it) and the black ground probe on engine ground (fuel injection rail where the brown ground wires go). once the car is warmed up, the voltage should go from less than 0.5V to more than 0.5 V back and forth every 5-10 seconds. like, 0.1 to 0.3 low and 0.7V to 0.9V high, then back. the exact voltages don't matter, its that they are swinging back and forth. if it is, then the engine is running in 'lambda balance'. if its stuck high or stuck low, then the engine is too rich or too lean, or your O2 sensor is toast. if its too slow going back and forth, the o2 sensor is old and should be replaced.
its connectors are clipped to the firewall under the hood, there's two of them, a square 2-pin connector (power for the O2 sensor heater circuit), and a round 1-pin connector, they are near the wiper motor on a 240 (near the top of the right side of the firewall). unplug the round one, take a couple inch long thin strand of copper wire (like, a single strand from a lamp cord), and wrap one end a turn or two around the connector pin, then reconnect it. use a digital volt meter on a low DC volts setting, start the car, wait for it to warm up and put the red probe on that little wire (I wrap the wire around the probe so I don't have to hold it) and the black ground probe on engine ground (fuel injection rail where the brown ground wires go). once the car is warmed up, the voltage should go from less than 0.5V to more than 0.5 V back and forth every 5-10 seconds. like, 0.1 to 0.3 low and 0.7V to 0.9V high, then back. the exact voltages don't matter, its that they are swinging back and forth. if it is, then the engine is running in 'lambda balance'. if its stuck high or stuck low, then the engine is too rich or too lean, or your O2 sensor is toast. if its too slow going back and forth, the o2 sensor is old and should be replaced.
#9
#11
#12
I'd worry more about the white smoke! The OBD1 codes in these cars are hit and miss-- many faulty, confusing readings as a result. Start by taking a compression test; white smoke is indication of a bad head gasket and if you have that you'll get all kinds of code head scratchers. A bad O2 sensor won't cause white smoke.
#13
it's not a lot of white smoke-- just a little and only when the temp goes to half way. like clockwork, every time. i start the car and there's no white smoke, no CEL, then as soon as the gauge hits half way, the CEL comes on and i can see a bit of white smoke coming from the tailpipe. does that sound like head gasket? the car does not overheat and does not have oil in the coolant.
#16
just wanted to give an update on this...
I redid the test on the 02 sensor (was not confident with my first results) and it checked out fine. So, I removed the injectors and cleaned them which got rid of the check engine light and no more code 1-1-3 (yay!).
I still have a little white smoke coming from the tailpipe and I do have creamy goo on the oil cap. Scary. I don't have a compression gauge, so i can't test the compression right now--but, signs are pointing to a leaky head gasket right?
I redid the test on the 02 sensor (was not confident with my first results) and it checked out fine. So, I removed the injectors and cleaned them which got rid of the check engine light and no more code 1-1-3 (yay!).
I still have a little white smoke coming from the tailpipe and I do have creamy goo on the oil cap. Scary. I don't have a compression gauge, so i can't test the compression right now--but, signs are pointing to a leaky head gasket right?
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