240 carb kits?
#1
240 carb kits?
I hope to find some information through willing folks regarding carburetor kits for
the 1980 series 240 Volvos. If anyone out there can steer me towards something like this, I would really appreciate it. I'm going to try and resurrect
an 82 245 wagon with a younger mileage 84 240 engine, but both cars have way
deteriorated wire harnesses and this modification to carburetor I thought might work, however all I've found is for the 1960 -72 vehicles.
Any enlightenment would be of great help...getting back into the Volvo game
Thank you for any help...
the 1980 series 240 Volvos. If anyone out there can steer me towards something like this, I would really appreciate it. I'm going to try and resurrect
an 82 245 wagon with a younger mileage 84 240 engine, but both cars have way
deteriorated wire harnesses and this modification to carburetor I thought might work, however all I've found is for the 1960 -72 vehicles.
Any enlightenment would be of great help...getting back into the Volvo game
Thank you for any help...
#2
I don't think that American market 240's came with carbs. Sourcing part I think will be hard. I've always wanted to try big motorcycle carbs with one per cylinder. You would need a proper intake manifold. I saw on person put a tractor carb on his 240 here. 4 SU's with velocity stacks could be pretty cool, but knowing what you are doing could be the trick with those. Why not find a car with a later fuel injection system and swap it. If you pick up an 88 or 89 turbo harness, it will be setup for a hall sensor and should run a non turbo setup fine. You could just use a non turbo computer if that give you problems.
If you can fabricate a manifold and tune CV carbs, I think those would be sweet. Even some sport bike carbs might not be bad.
If you can fabricate a manifold and tune CV carbs, I think those would be sweet. Even some sport bike carbs might not be bad.
#3
#4
Something like this could work: Volvo B21 B23 B230 Weber Carburetor Conversion | eBay
add an electric low psi pump: Redline Fuel Pump and Regulator from AlamoMotorsports.Com
and you're good to go.
or this route:
add an electric low psi pump: Redline Fuel Pump and Regulator from AlamoMotorsports.Com
and you're good to go.
or this route:
Last edited by TIPSP; 11-06-2013 at 02:14 AM.
#6
As Pierce mentioned, it may just be better, cheaper, and easier to get a new harness and be done with it.
Dave's Volvo Engine Wire Harness Page
the weber side drafts will be best for under manifold clearance, but costs a lot of $$$$.
The weber kit for the boats might have clearance issues.
Choice is yours.
Dave's Volvo Engine Wire Harness Page
the weber side drafts will be best for under manifold clearance, but costs a lot of $$$$.
The weber kit for the boats might have clearance issues.
Choice is yours.
#7
and NONE of those carb kits come even close to being street legal on an 80s vintage car. you'll likely be running too rich for a catalytic converter, so you'll need to replace that with a 'test pipe'. your gas mileage will suffer, unless you undercarb it such that the power will suffer. you'll get to spend lots of time playing with orifice restrictors and jets trying to get the right balance of low speed and high speed drivability and power.
#8
Hi,
I was able to purchase a Weber 32/36 DGEV Carburetor Conversion Kit with a Pierce manifold from Amazon. Ebay also has it for around $480. I plan to install it on my 89 240 B230F LH 2.4 M47. I plan to run both in tank and in-line fuel pumps with a Holley regulator to bring the pressure down to 4 psi. Or I could go with a simple low pressure carburetor specific electric fuel pump. My questions are: how do I control the ignition? Which ICU should I use? What do I do with the harness? Where can I get a harness specific for carburetor models and a specific ICU if any available? What do I do with the ECU? How do I wire the fuel pumps? Thanks in advance!
iyoy
I found these on ebay
I was able to purchase a Weber 32/36 DGEV Carburetor Conversion Kit with a Pierce manifold from Amazon. Ebay also has it for around $480. I plan to install it on my 89 240 B230F LH 2.4 M47. I plan to run both in tank and in-line fuel pumps with a Holley regulator to bring the pressure down to 4 psi. Or I could go with a simple low pressure carburetor specific electric fuel pump. My questions are: how do I control the ignition? Which ICU should I use? What do I do with the harness? Where can I get a harness specific for carburetor models and a specific ICU if any available? What do I do with the ECU? How do I wire the fuel pumps? Thanks in advance!
iyoy
I found these on ebay
#9
I would leave them both installed they way they were from the factory. Then I would find the wires in the fuse panel, cut them off, install an inline fuse and a toggle switch. Heres why:
1. Looks fantastic
2. Can install 2 toggle switches, one can be hidden as an anti-theft device. Both would need to be turned on in order to work
3. Every one will ask what it does. You can give a different answer every time.
Holley fuel pressure regulator is the way to go. Make sure that you adjust the pressure while the pump is running so you get dynamic pressure not head pressure. They do make a tool for this, but it aint cheap. Ill research a spark controller..
1. Looks fantastic
2. Can install 2 toggle switches, one can be hidden as an anti-theft device. Both would need to be turned on in order to work
3. Every one will ask what it does. You can give a different answer every time.
Holley fuel pressure regulator is the way to go. Make sure that you adjust the pressure while the pump is running so you get dynamic pressure not head pressure. They do make a tool for this, but it aint cheap. Ill research a spark controller..
#11
ooh!!!! Heres an idea... The 1977 Pontiac Astre had a 4 cylinder with an HEI ignition. Super reliable and cheap! Rock Auto has it for 78$. You could take both to a good machinist and have h/h adapt the bottom of the dizzy from the Volvo onto the HEI and then add the gear from Volvo dizzy. Boom, instant spark with 2 wires.
I did find these guys as well. I would call them to make sure it will work with your engine..
https://123ignitionusa.com/123igniti...eatured&page=1
I did find these guys as well. I would call them to make sure it will work with your engine..
https://123ignitionusa.com/123igniti...eatured&page=1
Last edited by 1967 Tempest; 08-23-2019 at 10:39 AM.
#12
no, they aren't. first, the B simply stands for Benzin, aka gasoline / petrol. Even the B230F 'red block' used on all the 4 cyl RWD volvos since the mid 80s, there's several different distributors.... 740/940 fit on the rear of the camshaft, while 240 are side-of-block... distributors of either sort have an internal hall sensor through 1988, and this was removed in 1989 as LH2.4 uses a crank position sensor instead. VERY old volvo 240 distributors (and some pentax marine applications) had vacuum advance.
#13
Carb Conversion
Thanks for the insightful replies guys! I bought the car cheap in the condition shown in the photos. Based on first impression and appearance, I was not very optimistic that I could get it to run. However, with the help of the previous owner, we did get it to run after all! First we just poured gasoline in the bowl just to get it started. We connected a battery and she fired right up. The high speed was okay but we couldn’t get a good idle. Next we jury rigged a carb specific Low pressure universal electric pump (Mr Gasket type) with a supply and return to a Jerry can, to obtain longer run time and it ran fine, still without idle.
I already bought the Pierce/ Weber kit and a 123ignition and waiting for shipment to arrive. I will post my progress here. In the meantime, I’ll continue experimenting with the existing setup. So far I could confidently say the Toyota ignition conversion seems to work but the steel manifold adapter makes me skeptical because the heat would probably vaporous the fuel and it doesn’t look cool.
I’ll keep you posted on any developments. Cheers!
Improvised welded steel adapter to install Weber 32/36 DGV to LH 2.4 intake plenum
Toyota distributor with self contained electronic ignition control machined/ adapted to fit using the distributor shaft and gear from the original Bosch.
Welded steel plenum to carburetor base adapter
I already bought the Pierce/ Weber kit and a 123ignition and waiting for shipment to arrive. I will post my progress here. In the meantime, I’ll continue experimenting with the existing setup. So far I could confidently say the Toyota ignition conversion seems to work but the steel manifold adapter makes me skeptical because the heat would probably vaporous the fuel and it doesn’t look cool.
I’ll keep you posted on any developments. Cheers!
Improvised welded steel adapter to install Weber 32/36 DGV to LH 2.4 intake plenum
Toyota distributor with self contained electronic ignition control machined/ adapted to fit using the distributor shaft and gear from the original Bosch.
Welded steel plenum to carburetor base adapter
#14
Restore to Original LH 2.4
Even if I plan to install the Pierce/ Weber kit and 123ignition distributor once these arrive, I am accumulating all the bits and pieces to restore the original LH 2.4 Motronic EFI System. I also ordered a new replacement harness from Dave Barton.
Many are probably wondering why go through all the trouble. Well the real answer is because it’s fun! On another note, RWD Volvos were never sold in my country so chances of taking possession of one are limited. I just want to make the most of the experience!
The identification number for the original installed main engine harness
This number is stamped on the red sleeve on the yellow wire connected to the coolant temperature sensor located on the cylinder head underneath the intake plenum
Many are probably wondering why go through all the trouble. Well the real answer is because it’s fun! On another note, RWD Volvos were never sold in my country so chances of taking possession of one are limited. I just want to make the most of the experience!
The identification number for the original installed main engine harness
This number is stamped on the red sleeve on the yellow wire connected to the coolant temperature sensor located on the cylinder head underneath the intake plenum
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