Anyone done this conversion that can help me avoid mistakes? I've gotten a Penta manifold and am designing an adapter plate for my 3236 DGAV downdraft. Any suggestion on how best to rig the linkage?

The main fuel pump will obviously be removed, what about the in tank pump? Will it supply enough/too much fuel pressure? How has that been dealt with? Any ignition or electrical circuit issues to deal with?

Any help to keep me from "re-inventing the wheel" would be appreciated. TD

 

I sure can't help you, but I am curious as to why you would want to go this route? I would think that the injection system would be more adaptable to tweaking for those that want to experiment. I've tweaked the carb on my Ford (in my signiture) and was able to boost my gas milage from an average of 18 to an average of 20. Not bad for a 42 year old truck!

Jerry

 

CIS injection on 240s is one of the most poorly designed for servicing & is "un-tweakable" in my experience. I'm tired of replacing expensive parts in the hope of finding the silver bullet to make the car run right. You can re-jet a weber without being double-jointed! TD

 

OK...I get you are familiar with Webers and wish to swap to something with which you're familiar. Sounds like a plan. Still, KJet typically does not need much servicing and tweaking is performed by swapping in parts from other applications. Without personal knowledge of parts used in other applications (Porsche comes to mind, also MB) it is indeed tough to get anywhere.
As for your conversion, you'll need the mechanical block pump easily sourced. There's a chance you could use the anemic lift pump in KJet cars but I'm not sure it's stout enough. Probably swap in a later LH lift pump. But really, mechanical is the way to go. The B21 was carb'd in Canada so genuine intakes for Strombergs/SU's are common; the Penta is set up for the Solex of course. Since you'll need to generate an adapter plate, doesn't really matter which intake you use. There is a side draft intake out there for DCOE's too.

 

I'm sure any old low PSI inline electric fuel pump would work, too. I did that on an old boat I had that had an I/O with an I-4 out of a Renault. The old mechanical fuel pump failed and I needed a quick and cheap fix. So I bought a whole spool of 5/16" gas hose (or any diameter you need), ripped off the old pump and made up a block-off plate, and bought a cheap 12v electric fuel pump (I think somewhere between 6-12 psi would do) and wired it to come on as soon as I turned the key to run. It started EVERY time, and I mean EVERY time, even better than when the old mechanical fuel pump actually worked.

Thats my 2 cents.

 

Wow...I would think 12 p.s.i. to a Weber would have gasoline running out of the air filter! With my B20, which was originally injected and converted to carbs, I had to put a flow restrictor AFTER the mechanical fuel pump...anything over 4 p.s.i. is just way too much, at least for SU's...

 

This is the combination I used with great success. I just bought a kit from Amazon. I used the in tank sender unit electrical pump and deleted the main inline pump.
[img]blob:https://volvoforums.com/0fdee072-9863-49f9-b3c1-bb6f0ca9af33[/img][img]blob:https://volvoforums.com/dc97f1e0-f73a-4024-b212-03db3cafdc9c[/img]

 

160 kph on the highway

Pierce manifold, Weber 32/36 DGEV, 123ignition distributor