Stock boost is ~8psi.

Don't forget to drill the block for the oil return line.

 

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...48&postcount=1

That might help with the wiring. I had done something very similar about 6 months ago, its running good but i have other problems right now.

 

Yes PISTON SLAP..Do you not know what piston slap is? Almost EVERY B230FT motor I have worked on over 150K has piston slap...some greater than others but none the less...they have it..Also the older 240's had a smaller main fuel pump...would be nice to UPGRADE to the larger one that is used in later years.

 

That's right. Piston slap become more prevalent with the low friction design brought out w/ the B230F. Unlike it's predecessors, the B230F has piston steered rods as opposed to crank steered rods. Eventually, piston slap can occur. I've seen 'em with as little as 120k have it. The issue was reduced somewhat with the reintroduction of the heavier 13mm rods. Piston squirters introduced w/ the L block helped reduce the problem even further. I've seen redblocks run 60-75k miles after developing slap.
So, VG2323...just what do you mean when you say "older" Volvos? Since the "newest" 240's are now 17 years old...the expression is a little vague. Are you saying K Jet 240's have a lower volume main fuel pump than later LH Jetronic cars?

 

so if you slap on a 92 940 turbo cyl heads with camshaft and all to an 86 240 wagon, what can you expect? My original head was shot and pick ur part had a 50% off deal and took the heads off of the wrecked 940. Got a new gasket and so far runs nice and smooth. when I did the smog check it came out way low on the emissions(400 ppm too much for Cal smog regs but way under most cars I have owned in CA.

1991 Mazda MX6 came to 3200 ppm
1986 Volvo 240 wagon came to 1444 ppm. go figure

 

I'm curious about this as well. We've got a jy with such a deal. And ive heard the Turbo can will help me a bit. Also. Can I swap brackets and switch my alternator Ans ps pump? My research finds that 760 had those accessories opposite of my setup. And my ic to intake pipe does not fit.

 

most 84 240's B23's have a smaller main fuel pump(if it's the original pump) than then say an 85/86...B230F not talking about CIS cars...totally different system. Volvo upgraded the main fuel pump in 85/86...to a more powerful robust pump. Yes the motors can run with piston slap but why invest a bunch of time and money to have a motor with piston slap...that's nothing to be proud of. I guess if it's just for fun...do it.

 

The only difference between a turbo head and an n/a head is he exhaust valves. The turbo setup has sodium infused, Stellite coated exhaust valves to dissipate heat a little better. There are plenty of people on turbobricks.com running n/a heads on turbo's n/a motors. Turbo heads are better...but I wouldn't pull the n/a one off the running motor unless it had to come off for other reasons like a bad HG or was warped.

And yes, you can swap the accessory brackets around...

 

Will I need brackets from Turbo engine or will reconfiguring my existing brackets do it? And how will the belts have to be long enough to reach around the alternator water pump and crank pulley? Or do I run only one on my alternator?

I have another dilemma, I need to run water lines through my Turbo. Where do these come from on the Turbo models? I'd like to think iys off the hard heater hose that runs to rear of the block from water pump. Sorry about 500 Q's at a time.

 

Yes i know what piston slap is but thanks for the science lesson.

As far as the brackets the only turbo specific bracket I can think of is the bracket that holds the turbo to the block on some models.

As far as the water cooling for the turbo it depends which one you have. I have an oil only Garrett turbo but the Mits ones do have water cooling. You can pull the necessary piping off a 740t. I honestly would just run a Garret if you shop smart you can find a decent one for 100.

 

Got the Turbo with the rest of the goodies. Pretty sure its thE factory Turbo. Its Garrett t3, .42 a/r. Has coolant lines as well as oil so ill run some. I printed some diagrams from alldata, not as informative as I'd hoped for but ill pick up a Haynes for better wiring diagram, as far as the accessories ill have to do some measuring, the Turbo 740 had an offset water pump and the belt ran ps pump and water pump. I will need similar .

 

One thing that often gets overlooked is fuel injectors. The n/a cars use high resistance injectors and the turbo cars use low resistance, higher volume injectors. You can either use the "green top" standard turbo injectors and wire in a resistor or go with similar volume high rez injectors. As long as they are the Bosch style and similar flow rate they'll be fine. I have diagrams showing how the resitor gets wired in. Most people use the o.e resistor pack, but actually, a Radio Shack resitor can work just as well.

 

I have the green tops, fuel rail, and fpr from the donor car. I think I have the resistance box but upon looking at the diagram I think its for ignition system or something else. Please pm me the diagram if you have it. I used alldata, it was less than amazing. So if I'm understanding this correctly I still need the resistance with the Turbo fcu? Believe its a 541. I'd have to look at it again don't remember off the top of my head

 

Yes, the 541 was the factory turbo ecu for LH2.2 When they failed, the dealership always replaced them with the 591, slightly more reliable and has a removable eprom so easier to be chipped.
Here's a pic of the resistor pack, they're located on the driver's side strut tower...

The ecu doesn't dictate high or low res injectors...all the ecu's require high resistance from the injectors. Volvo chose to use low rez injectors for the turbos, so you have to make up the extra resistance w/ a resistor inline.

 

Or skip the whole injector drama and run the injectors from a 850 turbo. You can get five for 35 bucks all day long.

 

Which is what I was alluding to when I mentioned high rez injectors. The T5 orange tops flow 30#, same as the turbo green tops and you won't need the resistor.

 

I may even have an extra set.

 

How much for them, and what they rated at? If I read correctly the green top are 32lb
?

 

Yeah. Green tops around ~33lbs