My car, a 1993 240 Wagon (approx 200k) will stall while driving along in traffic. The lights don't come on right away, it just seems to die quietly. I end up trying to steer to the side of the road or a nearby turn. If I try to crank it back up right away it won't start. But if I wait 2 minutes it starts right back up? Sometimes it will stall while I am stopped at a light..or turning and I can be steady cruising at about 60 mph and she just craps out.
It does not sputter it shuts off. I have replaced all fuses, relays, has new fuel pumps, sending unit, crankcase breather kit, flame trap. Throttle body cleaned. I would appreciate any thoughts, comments, advice, or a reliable mechanic in NE Indiana. I am pulling my hair out and I think my husband wants to buy me a new car, NO thank you very much. HELP.

Thanks,
Christine

 

Check error codes. You might want to clear them first, you might have some old ones in the system.

VCBC - Bosch LH 2.4 System Fault Codes - Volvo Club of BC

Here is a video on the procedure...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odE9LoTQqwg

 

The first two items I check when this sort of problem occurs is the crank position sensor and the fuel pump relay. The crank position sensor tends to fail intermittently before you get a hard failure. It is located at the top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet. It has a fat black wire running from it to a connector on the firewall. The wire is about the same thickness as coax cable. Check the wire on it for cracked and flaking insulation. If it is flaking, then most likely it is the cause of your problem.

To check the fuel pump relay, next time it stalls, check to see if you hear the fuel pump run when you turn the key the the II position. Under normal conditions, it should run 1-2 seconds and then shut off when the key is turned to the II position. I make a habit of listening for the pump prior to starting the car.

 

+1. Definitely Crank Position Sensor, even if it's not flaking... You can't tell by that--just change it but use an OEM part not the cheapest one you can find! It is too important of a part to risk getting a dodgy one.

 

if its the crank sensor you should have the following code:

2-1-4 crank sensor signal absent intermittently

Crank sensor and MAF are your two main inputs to the system that would likely cause the issue you describe. You can get a bougicord crank sensor for less than $50, MAF are much more expensive if you want quality. Most are rebuilds and quality is all over the place. Anyway, if you want to play the odds, change the crank sensor first. But it's easy to check the codes....

 

The OBD1 system, aka "the codes", is fairly unreliable... Many are misled by blind faith in those things, i.e, just because there isn't a code for it, it doesn't mean it's not the problem...

 

Thank you. No fault showing up in codes. Have new MAF as well, should have stated that, will move on to the crank position sensor. I really should have become a mechanic as I wanted to, my Mother disallowed it, lol.

 

Thank you. I have a new MAF, will move on to the sensor. Your input is much appreciated!

 

I completely agree. But still feel it is a useful part of the process. Good starting point that doesn't require buying any parts. Personally, with all the current info, I would swap the crank sensor next since it is pretty cheap, but no clear way to know in advance if it would fix it. If the code for the sensor showed up, it would make me feel a lot better about changing it.