So I finally picked up my 1993 240 wagon. Some of you may remember giving me suggestions - and thanks for that. Got it for $2000 with 120,000 on it. It's in wonderful shape and the only thing I noticed that needs to be dealt with is a very loud squeal at the end of a sharp turn (like pulling into a parking space). I am assuming it has something to do with the power steering.

Where should I start with this? Power steering fluid is full.

Side question: with the 120,000 mile mark should I just go ahead and change the timing belt and water pump or should I wait for one of them to go out? I am assuming both would be done at the same time.

Thanks guys.

 

Yeah, looking back, the clean silver wagon with nice leather interior? Not bad...
Can't say much about power steering, but they do make some noise...

Side answer: Uh, when was the timing belt last replaced? If on schedule, your replacement is overdue. Why wait till they break? The water pump will most likely leak before it quits.

You said your wishy washy on replacing the rear shocks? Piece a cake, un-bolt, remove, replace, re-bolt, seriously. You have that Bentley book? As bad as some claim those books are, that's all you need if you are blind to automotive repairs, you may not even need one.

Anyways, the picture you posted before were great, but I was wondering if you had more, the interior looks great! Share the love please...

 

18 years old and 120K...I'd go ahead and replace that belt. Just did mine, first time for me. No problem, old belt looked ok, and water pump was not leaking....but, the pump was original and I am putting some hefty miles on the car.

 

Sorry for the late response - I just finished moving and am finishing up a short trip to northern Michigan before grad school starts back up.

So I just took the volvo to the only volvo mechanic in town (really nice guy, lot filled with cars and about 5 bays). He did a post purchase inspection for me and listed everything that needed to be done to bring the car to perfect working order.

The total cost floored me. About $4,000. Of course this was for everything and not all was urgent. I plan (hope) to do some things myself, but with school starting I may have him do the important things so the car is safe and drivable right away.

Here is the list if you are interested.Let me know what you think I should absolutely not let him do (that would be easy for a beginner). Prices include everything including taxes.

1. Rear brake pad, disc repair, new rear left caliper (seized). $465
2. Brake shoe set for rear parking brake $107
3. Full transmission flush/service (120,000 mile service). $198
4. Timing belt service/water pump $643
5. Ball joint replacement $321
6. Replace pre-heat thermostat and air filter $90
7. Replace gear shift light $25
8. Replace breather housing and flame trap $242
9. Replace rear shocks (starting to leak) $354
10. replace shifter linkage bushings $92
11. rear main oil seal between the engine and transmission is leaking. ($558!!).
12. Replace the front control arm rear attaching bushings $283
13. front wheel alignment $95

wow. someone talk me down. I'm thinking of having him do the front ball joints, rear brakes because of the caliper replacement which I have no idea how to do, the air box thermostat and filter and the timing belt/water pump. Total about $1500.

Most other cars that were similar were selling for $3000, I got this beauty for $2000 so I figure I can throw about $1000 into it and still be ok. If you guys have any suggestions, let me know. As I said, the list is to get it to perfect working order. The body and interior are in great shape and I would love to keep this car for a long time.

Burn, as far as photos, I can send you some when I get back in town. Thanks guys.

 

Get a book (Bentley) and some tools. Ask loads of questions. Find a local friend who has a 240.

I think I'd do everything but the rear main seal myself without too much trepidation, but I have spent my life around mechanical objects.


As cars go...240's are cake. About the most simple machine imaginable this side of a 60's Chevy pickup truck.

 

This is insane, that's $100 in parts tops. Sorry but almost $500 for that...no way.
This is a couple hour job for anyone that has ever done any mechanical work before. It's straightforward, basic tools plus a $35 impact wrench.
I looked at the book, rear shocks do not look that difficult on a 240, I'm going to change my own. around $100 for a pair of Billstein tourings, plus an afternoon.

I'm sure more knowledgeable members will correct me if I'm wrong on any of this.

 

Brake pads, DIY. Caliper, IDK...
Parking Brake IDK...
Transmission service, some say flush bad, some say it's good so, IDK...
Timing belt, never tried but is easy I'm sure, water pump is easy, DIY.
Ball Joints, easy, need a pickle fork though, possible DIY.
Forget the thermostat, rip that out along with the flapper inside the air box preheater hose if you want. Not sure what I'm talking about? I can post pictures, as I was thinking on checking mine, but this is definatly a DIY.
Gear shift light, big time DIY.
Is the breather housing another name for the oil trap breather box, if so, that and the flame trap is a DIY. Breather box is a little tricky though, but not bad.
Rear shocks, DIY.
Shifter Bushings, IDK...
Rear main, what a pain, IDK...
Control arm bushings, you'll need a press, I took mine to Autozone and had them inserted for free, possible DIY.
Alignment, needs special tools, IDK...

I'm thinking that brake caliper would be top priority, not sure the dangers of a seized one would be, but the timing belt would be next, unless it is not way overdue. Ball joints are crucial if near ready to snap...
replacing seal won't do no good with a clogged flame trap and breather box. Don't necessarily have to replace breather box unless it is cracked, just clean it once removed.
Worn shifter bushings are just annoying
Not sure if worn control arm bushings are detrimental, I don't think they are...
How much time do you have in a week to work on the car?

 

the air box flapper thing, what you want to do is wire that closed, it will save your AMM. thats a trivial thing to do, a bit of bailing wire.

I would not remove the thermostat, I would replace it, the car will warm up to operating speed much faster, especially in cool/cold weather. its standard to replace it when you replace the water pump. doing the timing belt, water pump and thermostat

going through that list and doing the 70% that I'd feel comfortable doing myself at my own tinker pace would take me several weeks of a few hours here, an hour there. as Burn says, do the safety stuff first. car is driveable between each job.

the flame trap on a 93 should be on a riser above the intake manifold, and easy to do. if its not, get the riser kit from IPD. the breather box is a pain in the butt, its under the intake manifold, but its all stuff that can be done with simple hand tools, just a lot of stuff to get out of the way to access it. while you're at it, a new intake gasket might not be a bad idea. the flame trap is a higher priority than the rest of that unless the breather box is badly cracked and spewing oil.

11. will require pulling the engine/transmission, big pain. unless its really gushing oil, with an automatic, I'd just let it slide for quite awhile.

p.s. I second the emotion on Bilstein TC/Touring shocks. rear shocks on a 240 are silly easy, you just need a floor jack and some jack stands and a 1/2" socket set and a torque wrench. but you can drive around for a long time with bouncy back shocks.

red tractors: to the parts price, add shop time, which around here is $90-100/hour for a good shop, and yeah, I'd not be a bit surprised.

 

For the thermostat, I think he means the one in the air box, at least that's what I meant. Yeah, the thermostat on the block would be good for warming up no doubt. As for the flapper, I just removed mine and covered the bottom hole, but clamping it shut down there could work as well I guess. Mine was just sticky and I had to force it down so much, I took it out.
As for the shocks, I would love to replace them for $350, and I third the Bilstein Touring shocks as well.

 

Thanks for the responses guys. It was quite the list, but I suppose it was expected considering it was an 18 year old car selling for a good price. The body and interior are in excellent condition and the engine seems strong so I guess I'm at a good starting point for long term ownership.

As far as time to work on the vehicle? Long story short, I am a graduate student with limited time - probably 3 hours a week at best. School starts Tuesday so things will be crazy. Don't need the car everyday though, will drive it 2-3 times a week.

That being said, I decided to go ahead and have the mechanic (got a very nice vibe from his shop and there were about 5 other 240's in the parking lot) do the work that was the most pressing/difficult. Pay the large sum up front and get the vehicle in safe working order and then do the more manageable jobs myself.

He's currently working on: new caliper/rotors rear, timing belt/pump, thermostat, breather box replacement.

When I get the vehicle back I am going to attempt to do (first time) the rear shocks. I figure instead of paying him $350, I can buy a floor jack, the stands, the touring shocks and still come out ahead. Any recommendations on a floor jack/stands? Should I buy the shocks from IDP? Looks like the F4-BNE-2945-BE - Rear Shock Bilstein Touring Class are $57 each.

I know this may be a cheap jack/stand set, but should I go with something like this for a wagon? Looks like Torin has a few different grades.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-Floor-Ja...lp_edpp_ttl_ex

I'll send you some pics when I pick up the vehicle on Wednesday.

 

Now we're talking. The 240 is a joy to work on. Treat it right and it will take you far.