I've searched but I'm not finding anything regarding replacement of my water pump. I think all my info is here, but just to be safe, I have a '91 240.


I'm looking for any pointers, tips, advice, pictures, tutorials, etc. on replacing my water pump.


Thanks in advance.


MJ

 

Here is a DIY:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/WaterPumpChange.html

 

Perfect! Big thanks to you, fochs!

 

Tip: loosen belts completely before trying to remove fan.

Tip: if studs pull out, don't worry, just remove and then reinstall CAREFULLY using two nuts back-to-back. Easy to destroy the threads so have a couple extra nuts around in case.

 

I have an '89 240. The bolt that always gets me, is on the back of the pump securing the heater tube the water pump. It is usually gunked up so it's hard to see,so when I yank the pump off, the tab bends. The heater tube is the metal line that runs under the exhaust manifold. Be sure to use a new rubber seal between the head and pump,and you have to pry up on the pump to get the bolts in.

 

Make sure you have flat razor blades handy. When I did mine, I had to scrape quite a bit of gunk (and little bits of the old gasket) off the block to get the new pump to sit nice n flush.

Also, if I remember correctly there's a little plastic box/trap thingy that slides in to the pump on the bottom of the pump. Make sure you save that, clean it out with CLR or something. Most new pumps don't come with it for whatever reason. It will slide out though, don't break it or squish it.

It's a pretty easy fix to do! Have fun

 

I don't take ANY of the belts off. I undo the fan/pulley and slide it off, then once the pump is on I just lift the pulley back on, line up the holes and done... Less work.

 

OK, my water pump replacement went fairly well except now I get an intermittent leak at the heater tube connection. I felt like I cleaned up the heater tube end fairly well, too. When I was installing the pump onto the heater tube it gave me a little trouble like the edges of the "O" ring getting hung up on the edge of the ring area on the water pump. When I tried to push the water pump onto the tube I could see and feel that the tube wasn't fully into the pump housing. After a few tries I just worked the "O" ring into the opening while on the tube and it finally slid in, with the tube completely in the water pump, although when it did slide in it didn't feel very tight. I got it all back together and it worked fine for a couple of times on short runs and a couple of trips back an forth to work, but I just noticed this past Wednesday that I was getting a drip and finall determined yesterday that it was coming out of the connection at the heater tube. Now, does the heater tube seal by the "O" ring compressing against the shoulder on the heater tube or does it just seal around the tube itself? When I tightened the bolt and nut up onto the water pump the little tab was right up against it.

One other question about draining the block. Is the drain at the back right of the block supposed to be so tight that you would need a breaker bar to release it? I was not able to open it and was getting impatient so I just flushed the system as best I could.

BTW, what is that little black rubber boxey thing at the bottom of the water pump shaft housing?

 

The small O ring is often concave shaped to make it fit just right; aftermarket, many makers just don't go to the trouble--I use Vaseline to make the O ring sit in without a hassle.

The drain **** is tight because chances are that nobody has touched it all those years, and it is made of two parts, one fitting into a bigger one--try both to see which is looser. The exact size escapes me at the moment...

That rubber pad is to make lifting the pump up into place safer, not crack it if too much force is used.

 

Concave in which direction/on what surface? The ring that came with the pump has basically, a square profile so the inside sits flat on the surface of the tube and the outside is flat on the surface of the pump. I did use Vaseline to help things slide together.
I can't quite see how the drain **** is made from 2 pieces. It just looks like a hex head bolt with a ****** nipple on it. I believe it's 3/4", and I will have to get a deep socket to get it over that nipple.
I'll have to see how to use that rubber pad to pry the pump up to get the bolts started.


Thanks for the input. Anymore info will be very helpful.


MJ

 

I should've said, tapered, or semi conical on one side, the side that goes into the pump body. If it's perfectly square round rubber ring, that should work if installed right.

The drain plug is a metric size, keep that in mind! As far as in how many parts it is, well, the ones I have handled were: there is a larger nut that screws into the block and the plug itself treads into it.

Installation tip: the pump has two oval shaped holes. You slide the pump onto the two protruding studs, then screw the two nuts onto the studs. Snug those nuts but leave loose enough where the pump can still slide UP as the two oval holes will allow that movement. If you are very strong you can lift the pump up and start the bolts, if not then you need to pry the pump up to get the holes to line up to accept the remaining bolts. The rubber O ring (Vaselined) will be giving resistance, in fact the Volvo ones are bigger, thicker, better, but harder to install. I use a large screwdriver or a wooden rod to pry the pump up to get the holes to line up. You can use anything to pry against, it really does not take too much force with the help of a the prytool as long as the pump can slide up an down slightly.

 

Well, when I drove home this evening it didn't spill a drop of coolant. Maybe the o-ring just needed to seat a little better.

As for the draincock, I figured it was metric but the only socket I had was 3/4". I will be getting a deep socket though and an appropriate 1/2" extension for better reach. Need to study up on what its components are.

I already did the install so I'm aware of having to pry the pump up to help the mushroom seat and get the bolts started in their respective holes.

Thanks for the input.

MJ

 

That happens, leaks seal themselves sometimes--keep an eye on it!