It all started about a month ago. 1985 245T Wagon, 244 on the clock. Always started great cold, ran great, would miss if parked all day, but smoothed out within 30 secs. or so. One day, get home from my daily errands, park her in the drive. Few hours later, give her her weekly washing, go to fire her up to wash the Max, and she is missing REAL bad, won't stay running, figure she has a bad plug wire. Replace the set, to no avail. checked pug gaps, all good. Dizzy cap and rotor in fine shape, even cleaned off what minimal marks there were, so clean copper was showing. But it happened so suddenly! Anybody have a clue, or at least point me in the direction...

BTW, in poking around, there are some vacuum line issues on a part very low under the intake manifold, almost next to the block. One vacuum port right above another. What is the proper vacuum hose hookup and routing for this part, and what is this part called?

I just want to get her fixed, without buying parts I don't need, and are not going to fix the problems.

Thanks, all. I know, first post, but it's rare that anybody joins a forum just to say Hi and all is right with the world...

Bob C

 

Hmmm, 13 views, and nothing...

Guess I need to go to the "Official" Volvo resource site...

I know, one of you guys will reply, "Well, then, just effin' go there!"

I'm looking for answers, not shots in the dark. Hell, I can pull every damn part out of her and replace it, but will that fix the problem? I don't have a money tree...

 

Have you made sure the injector o-rings are not bad? They commonly go bad.
Not sure about the vacuum lines though. Do they go to the vent box under the intake?

BTW 3 hours is not long to wait for a reply.

 

Do you have an underhood picture?

 

BTW, sorry about my shortness.

Anyway, some pics under the hood, hope they show something. The ones that try to show behind the dizzy are of the 2 vacuum ports coming off a part almost next to the block. And the one of the cannister with NO hoses attached???





Don't know if these will help. Sounds like I need to get the Bentley Manual and start to do some work...

 

The nipples look like they are for the evap canister.
I will try to see if I can find any diagrams.

 

You mean AC evap canister. So why does my underhood "vacuum hose routing" placard (which shows about 1/10th of the hoses under the hood! lol!) show 2 hoses coming off the "canister" and into the right top side of the intake manifold?

God, I hope Bentleys shows all this crap...

And thanks for trying to find some diagrams. Mucho appreciado, mi amigo.

 

No not the A/C system.
The evaperative fuel system. Charcoal canister.

It should show the proper diagram in the hood but sometimes it is not correct.

 

Hey I know this car, I passed on it about a year ago because the rear u joint was jacked up and it had a few other little problems.

Basically the problem there is, that vaccuum diagram will not apply. That car has a B23FT intake on it which is not what came stock on that motor. And, I don't think that he ever installed a cold start fuel injector for that motor. At least not to the best of my knowledge.

The problem with the car is that your running k-jet. Not that I have any sort of complete hate for the system, but i am getting rid of it for a reason. In front of the flame trap on the block is a piece of equipment that controls fuel pressure based on temperature and an electronic signal from the computer, and vacuum. It's called a control pressure regulator. This unit eventually stops working. And what you need to do is pull it off, and replace it. Or take it apart and clean it out and rewire it all down there. Basically its crap, the whole system, is crap. Well, not really, if you have time and knowledge they run well. Also, it's not tough to figure out the vacuum system even if you don't have the map for it. You need one from the distributor to the intake, one from the water temp sensor (i think thats what it is) on the head under the intake going to the intake. one from the control pressure regulator to the intake. Then there is one from the heater box inside the car, that i see is rigged up on the top of the motor. Also the charcoal canister is T-ed into one of the lines. Obviously there is only like 3 nipples on the intake and half a dozen places to go so you have to get some t's and figure it out a bit. Also I'm sure the fuel distributor needs cleaned on that car, never take it apart clean it by blowing carb cleaner through the wholes, and also clean the lines to the injectors, and the injectors. Then buy 4 new cups for the injectors, usually they come with the 2 o rings per injector/cup you'll need. And while you have your intake off for all this replace the intake gasket, I'm sure that guy reused whatever he had.
Here are a few links that might help:
http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...tem_part_1.pdf
http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...lt_tracing.pdf

Also, further on abotu that car. The guys said he redid the wiring system to replace the crappy wiring harness that degrades in these cars originally. But he didn't replace all the wires, which are definitely also causing a problem. Also did you fix the down pipe on that car? And the strut to firewall bar is broken, I see its slipped down. It's only a matter of time before it slips down more and really messes something up.

 

Thats what the correct intake looks like. I'll be done with my swap to Lh 2.2 here in a few weeks. At that time if your interested I'll put my complete K-Jet System up, it would be wise to buy some of the parts for it from me since a new fuel distributor will run you $350 and other parts will get you well over a 1000 in cost.

 

adub,
St. Pete Beach, right? Thanks for the info, I need to digest and figure out what I want to do. I will be in touch once I figure it all out. Obviously, a Bentley manual will be needed.

Thought there was something going on with the intake. Why the switch from a B21 to a B23?

Also notice you have no strut braces in your pic. Necessary? I don't race or autocross. And, oh, BTW, the universal at the driveshaft broke on me early this year. Tore up the yoke also. Have since been replaced. Cost about $150 between towing, yoke, and universal.

So am I looking at some major work here?

Thanks, Bob

 

I can't remember the guys name, but yeah he lived right by the beach in St. Pete. He had a Volvo V40 also and he was like an airline something or other. You don't need to buy a bentley, the green books are available on www.k-jet.org I just printed them off and read them all. The firewall to strut braces are not necessary, especially if one of them is broken.

As far as fixing the system its not so much parts as much as it is time and effort to take everything apart an clean it and put it back together. Like I said earlier, I'll finish my swap to EFI here in a couple weeks. I can sell you my complete Kjet system which is in good working order. I can also sell you my kjet wiring harness to replace that one that is in that car.