Need some help with some trouble codes
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Need some help with some trouble codes
'94 850 Turbo Wagon
This past weekend I replaced all intercooler/TB hoses with Stylin silicone, control arms, tie rod ends, blower motor and ecc resistor. Afterwards, I was getting the ECC blinking lights (although the blower works perfectly). I went out and pulled the codes from all the active sockets:
A3: 4-2-1 and 4-2-2 - Can't find these anywhere on the web, but I found a post in which Tech show a picture of his A3 socket codes, yet the codes I need only say 'Rear' prior to cutting off in the picture
B1: 1-2-2 - Can't find this one anywhere either and it won't reset
B2: 1-2-2 - I know this one is harmless
Can anyone help me out with the A3 and B1 codes?
After the alignment today, the car has noticably better steering (removed all the slop) and the boost is noticably stronger, that was caused by a badly torn TB hose. This weekend will be flushing the tranny and replacing all the vacuum hoses with silicone as well. Thanks for the help. - AB
This past weekend I replaced all intercooler/TB hoses with Stylin silicone, control arms, tie rod ends, blower motor and ecc resistor. Afterwards, I was getting the ECC blinking lights (although the blower works perfectly). I went out and pulled the codes from all the active sockets:
A3: 4-2-1 and 4-2-2 - Can't find these anywhere on the web, but I found a post in which Tech show a picture of his A3 socket codes, yet the codes I need only say 'Rear' prior to cutting off in the picture
B1: 1-2-2 - Can't find this one anywhere either and it won't reset
B2: 1-2-2 - I know this one is harmless
Can anyone help me out with the A3 and B1 codes?
After the alignment today, the car has noticably better steering (removed all the slop) and the boost is noticably stronger, that was caused by a badly torn TB hose. This weekend will be flushing the tranny and replacing all the vacuum hoses with silicone as well. Thanks for the help. - AB
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From: IPS, MA
RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
Hello Mr. B1mmer (AB),
Greetings from subzero (in Celsius) Chicagoland.
Here's what I see in Haynes':
B1: Used for Climate Control:
1-2-2: Outside temp sensor open circuit or shorted to 12 volts.
A3: Used for ABS & TRC:
4-2-1: Inlet valve for rear brakes, open/short circuit.
4-2-2: Return valve for rear brakes, open/short circuit.
As for the blinking climate panel, I wouldn't worry about it too much, as they turn on for negligible faults and the system works fine after blinking stops in 10-20 seconds.
Often, electronic systems faults are due to loose/dirty electrical connectors or chafed electrical wire that is touching the bare metal of chassis (ground). However, ABS on Volvo's seems to have defective control module (ECU).
Climate Control codes should be resettable via diagnostic terminal, but if you can't clear them, you can visit local AutoZone and have them reset it for you (free of charge), or you could find an affordable scanner. I found an Actron scanner for about $100 at Sears in Chicago suburb. Check in your area to see if you can find a good deal on an OBD-II scanner. My 850 is 1994 Turbo sedan, and it has OBD-II 16-pin DLC receptacle in front of the shifter, under the coin holder.
Happy Holidays,
JPN
Greetings from subzero (in Celsius) Chicagoland.
Here's what I see in Haynes':
B1: Used for Climate Control:
1-2-2: Outside temp sensor open circuit or shorted to 12 volts.
A3: Used for ABS & TRC:
4-2-1: Inlet valve for rear brakes, open/short circuit.
4-2-2: Return valve for rear brakes, open/short circuit.
As for the blinking climate panel, I wouldn't worry about it too much, as they turn on for negligible faults and the system works fine after blinking stops in 10-20 seconds.
Often, electronic systems faults are due to loose/dirty electrical connectors or chafed electrical wire that is touching the bare metal of chassis (ground). However, ABS on Volvo's seems to have defective control module (ECU).
Climate Control codes should be resettable via diagnostic terminal, but if you can't clear them, you can visit local AutoZone and have them reset it for you (free of charge), or you could find an affordable scanner. I found an Actron scanner for about $100 at Sears in Chicago suburb. Check in your area to see if you can find a good deal on an OBD-II scanner. My 850 is 1994 Turbo sedan, and it has OBD-II 16-pin DLC receptacle in front of the shifter, under the coin holder.
Happy Holidays,
JPN
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From: IPS, MA
RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
Hello again,
My 850 also had an alignment done at Volvo recently, and the handling improved noticeably. Also, after I did struts, shocks, ball joints and sway bar link rods, the car now drives like new (except for those diagnostic codes). I just did the sway bar link rods today (when the outside was as cold as inside a freezer), and the front-end now behaves a lot better. I didn't think such thin rods (Hamburg Tech, German) would make noticeable difference but they did.
Good luck,
JPN
My 850 also had an alignment done at Volvo recently, and the handling improved noticeably. Also, after I did struts, shocks, ball joints and sway bar link rods, the car now drives like new (except for those diagnostic codes). I just did the sway bar link rods today (when the outside was as cold as inside a freezer), and the front-end now behaves a lot better. I didn't think such thin rods (Hamburg Tech, German) would make noticeable difference but they did.
Good luck,
JPN
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RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
Thanks JPN. I've had the Haynes manual since I bought the car a year ago and I have yet to open it 
I guess I'll now open it, knowing that the diagnostic codes are in there
For the front end, I also did the end links. I checked the records of the previous owner, and they did control arms and inner and outer tie rod ends about 3 years ago (to the tune of $850) at the dealership, but I was getting a lot of play in the steering, so I decided to do it all again. The improvement was dramatic.
In the spring I will buy some Bilstein HD's with new mounting hardware for all for corners, but the current struts are still fine. I've owned a lot of cars in my day, and although I bought this car just to haul around my dogs, I have to admit it's a great car. - AB
I guess I'll now open it, knowing that the diagnostic codes are in there For the front end, I also did the end links. I checked the records of the previous owner, and they did control arms and inner and outer tie rod ends about 3 years ago (to the tune of $850) at the dealership, but I was getting a lot of play in the steering, so I decided to do it all again. The improvement was dramatic.
In the spring I will buy some Bilstein HD's with new mounting hardware for all for corners, but the current struts are still fine. I've owned a lot of cars in my day, and although I bought this car just to haul around my dogs, I have to admit it's a great car. - AB
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RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
ORIGINAL: JPN
A3: Used for ABS & TRC:
4-2-1: Inlet valve for rear brakes, open/short circuit.
4-2-2: Return valve for rear brakes, open/short circuit.
Often, electronic systems faults are due to loose/dirty electrical connectors or chafed electrical wire that is touching the bare metal of chassis (ground). However, ABS on Volvo's seems to have defective control module (ECU).
A3: Used for ABS & TRC:
4-2-1: Inlet valve for rear brakes, open/short circuit.
4-2-2: Return valve for rear brakes, open/short circuit.
Often, electronic systems faults are due to loose/dirty electrical connectors or chafed electrical wire that is touching the bare metal of chassis (ground). However, ABS on Volvo's seems to have defective control module (ECU).
Well, after thinking about this a while, I suspected that my ABS light must be out and/or my ABS is non-functional. It rained this morning, so I went to an empty parking lot to test the ABS and sure enough it isn't working at all. Granted, I don't see this as a major issue, being that it snows maybe once every 3 years here in Charlotte, but I would like to get it functioning again. My guess after reading enough posts is that I have a connection issue in the rear sensor (which side is unknown) as well as a bad ABS module and burned out ABS light.
I know people have had their ABS modules rebuilt by Victor.
What order of operations should I be going with this? Replace the bulb and have the module overhauled and see if that takes care of the fault codes, or look for the shorts as well? Thanks - AB
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From: IPS, MA
RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
Hello MR. B1mmer (AB),
Good morning from Chicagoland.
When you turn on the ignition to ACC (2nd detent) and if the ABS doesn't light, the bulb's gone. I've replaced quite a few bulbs in the cluster and it is not a difficult procedure, but takes some time as you have to remove the dash top cover. In this particular case, Haynes gives you sufficient procedure. The procedure requires disconnecting the battery and be careful with pax-side SRS. I don't think the SRS would deploy unless you kick it around or do some silly things like that, but I usually wear full-face shield just in case (I'm a safety phobia). Also, there are a number of torx screws that hold the top cover. The glove box also has to come out. The bulbs for warnings are of small type, my local AutoZone had them luckily.
As for rebuilding the ABS module, Victor doesn't deal with 1994 models, he only deals with 95 (96?) or later models. I emailed him and I got a rather curt reply. I also checked another company in Florida that deals with ABS module repairs, and again they only deal with later 850's. So I ran out of ideas, I may have to live with it, spend $300 for a new unit (which I am not sure if there is any modification/improvement to it, otherwise they'll fail again), or open the box and visually inspect for obvious defects (cracks/poor soldering/foreign metallic objects, etc...) or trace faulty electronic device with my DMM. But my ABS is strange, it works once a while, but 9 out of 10 the light comes on and disables it. I cleaned all wheel speed sensors as well as the splines and connectors, so I am assuming that the connections are ok, because even when I drive through really bumpy roads, the ABS lamp doesn't seem to get affected.
I will refer to the codes I had and see if I can find a problem, clean all connections and re-connect them to see if it cures the problem, but I still think it's that faulty ATE black box, something that I usually don't expect from German engineering.
Best wishes to you,
JPN
Good morning from Chicagoland.
When you turn on the ignition to ACC (2nd detent) and if the ABS doesn't light, the bulb's gone. I've replaced quite a few bulbs in the cluster and it is not a difficult procedure, but takes some time as you have to remove the dash top cover. In this particular case, Haynes gives you sufficient procedure. The procedure requires disconnecting the battery and be careful with pax-side SRS. I don't think the SRS would deploy unless you kick it around or do some silly things like that, but I usually wear full-face shield just in case (I'm a safety phobia). Also, there are a number of torx screws that hold the top cover. The glove box also has to come out. The bulbs for warnings are of small type, my local AutoZone had them luckily.
As for rebuilding the ABS module, Victor doesn't deal with 1994 models, he only deals with 95 (96?) or later models. I emailed him and I got a rather curt reply. I also checked another company in Florida that deals with ABS module repairs, and again they only deal with later 850's. So I ran out of ideas, I may have to live with it, spend $300 for a new unit (which I am not sure if there is any modification/improvement to it, otherwise they'll fail again), or open the box and visually inspect for obvious defects (cracks/poor soldering/foreign metallic objects, etc...) or trace faulty electronic device with my DMM. But my ABS is strange, it works once a while, but 9 out of 10 the light comes on and disables it. I cleaned all wheel speed sensors as well as the splines and connectors, so I am assuming that the connections are ok, because even when I drive through really bumpy roads, the ABS lamp doesn't seem to get affected.
I will refer to the codes I had and see if I can find a problem, clean all connections and re-connect them to see if it cures the problem, but I still think it's that faulty ATE black box, something that I usually don't expect from German engineering.
Best wishes to you,
JPN
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RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
ORIGINAL: JPN
Hello MR. B1mmer (AB),
Good morning from Chicagoland.
When you turn on the ignition to ACC (2nd detent) and if the ABS doesn't light, the bulb's gone. I've replaced quite a few bulbs in the cluster and it is not a difficult procedure, but takes some time as you have to remove the dash top cover. In this particular case, Haynes gives you sufficient procedure. The procedure requires disconnecting the battery and be careful with pax-side SRS. I don't think the SRS would deploy unless you kick it around or do some silly things like that, but I usually wear full-face shield just in case (I'm a safety phobia). Also, there are a number of torx screws that hold the top cover. The glove box also has to come out. The bulbs for warnings are of small type, my local AutoZone had them luckily.
As for rebuilding the ABS module, Victor doesn't deal with 1994 models, he only deals with 95 (96?) or later models. I emailed him and I got a rather curt reply. I also checked another company in Florida that deals with ABS module repairs, and again they only deal with later 850's. So I ran out of ideas, I may have to live with it, spend $300 for a new unit (which I am not sure if there is any modification/improvement to it, otherwise they'll fail again), or open the box and visually inspect for obvious defects (cracks/poor soldering/foreign metallic objects, etc...) or trace faulty electronic device with my DMM. But my ABS is strange, it works once a while, but 9 out of 10 the light comes on and disables it. I cleaned all wheel speed sensors as well as the splines and connectors, so I am assuming that the connections are ok, because even when I drive through really bumpy roads, the ABS lamp doesn't seem to get affected.
I will refer to the codes I had and see if I can find a problem, clean all connections and re-connect them to see if it cures the problem, but I still think it's that faulty ATE black box, something that I usually don't expect from German engineering.
Best wishes to you,
JPN
Hello MR. B1mmer (AB),
Good morning from Chicagoland.
When you turn on the ignition to ACC (2nd detent) and if the ABS doesn't light, the bulb's gone. I've replaced quite a few bulbs in the cluster and it is not a difficult procedure, but takes some time as you have to remove the dash top cover. In this particular case, Haynes gives you sufficient procedure. The procedure requires disconnecting the battery and be careful with pax-side SRS. I don't think the SRS would deploy unless you kick it around or do some silly things like that, but I usually wear full-face shield just in case (I'm a safety phobia). Also, there are a number of torx screws that hold the top cover. The glove box also has to come out. The bulbs for warnings are of small type, my local AutoZone had them luckily.
As for rebuilding the ABS module, Victor doesn't deal with 1994 models, he only deals with 95 (96?) or later models. I emailed him and I got a rather curt reply. I also checked another company in Florida that deals with ABS module repairs, and again they only deal with later 850's. So I ran out of ideas, I may have to live with it, spend $300 for a new unit (which I am not sure if there is any modification/improvement to it, otherwise they'll fail again), or open the box and visually inspect for obvious defects (cracks/poor soldering/foreign metallic objects, etc...) or trace faulty electronic device with my DMM. But my ABS is strange, it works once a while, but 9 out of 10 the light comes on and disables it. I cleaned all wheel speed sensors as well as the splines and connectors, so I am assuming that the connections are ok, because even when I drive through really bumpy roads, the ABS lamp doesn't seem to get affected.
I will refer to the codes I had and see if I can find a problem, clean all connections and re-connect them to see if it cures the problem, but I still think it's that faulty ATE black box, something that I usually don't expect from German engineering.
Best wishes to you,
JPN
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RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
I just called this company: http://www.modulemaster.com/volvoabsbsrepair.html
They said I can email them a picture of my ABS module to see if it's like the '95's.
There is a strong possibility I will just crack it open myself and do some soldering. - AB
They said I can email them a picture of my ABS module to see if it's like the '95's.
There is a strong possibility I will just crack it open myself and do some soldering. - AB
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RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
Hello everyone,
I have also been considering doing repairs on my ABS controller myself. I've seen
references to cracked solder joints on the circuit board along with "brown" areas
around the joints. A brown area on a circuit board usually indicates excessive heat
from a component or circuit board trace.
I've also seen general references to failure of the driver circuit for the ABS pump,
and component upgrades to prevent the same failure from occuring again. I haven't
seen these circuit boards so I don't know what is involved.
I'm not sure why Victor and the Florida company would not repair the earlier
controllers, but it may be that those units are difficult to repair. It probably
wouldn't hurt to call them and ask why they don't repair those units.
I also thought German engineering was perfection until I started driving an Audi
A4 that we have at work. The A4s from the mid to late 90s are known for their
electronic problems. The sunroof on this car would suddenly open for no reason
and refuse to close, not cool in Florida where we have many afternoon rainstorms.
Then there is the dashboard LCD display that dies at 20-30k miles. I have two
friends that have A4s, one has airbag controller failure, the other has ABS and
central locking unit failures.
So all in all Volvos ain't that bad. Sorry for the long post.
John
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RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
ORIGINAL: tech
They might repair the old ones but I have never seen one of the older ones go bad.
They might repair the old ones but I have never seen one of the older ones go bad.
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RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
Ok, I did some research and I think I have found my problem. I found this on brickboard.com and it makes a lot of sense:
and
I have the similar problem with the ABS pump. The pump is good but one of the 4 brake connectors (near the firewall) on the side of the pump is leaking brake fluid down to the sub-frame. The Volvo price is $1600 (with TRAC) and 4 hours labor (including brake bleeding). So, total is around $2100. I have no ABS light at all, just minor leaking. Brake is firm and good even with the minor leaking.
My car is about 145k miles, and I want to keep it much longer. So, I will take $2100 out of my pocket to keep this car. Other than this issue, it is "so far so good".
As it turns out, two days ago my 'brake' light came on for aintermittently. It only seemed to happen on left hand turns. I checked the fluid and it was just below the 'min'. Fortunately this car is only a dog hauler, so I don't daily drive it. Well, I'll be looking for the leak and shopping for a used ABS pump.
Tech, thanks for the clarification on the module not going bad normally. - AB
ORIGINAL: brickboard.com
Just to share with fellow bricksters. What started out as my Tracs and ABS lamps coming on for the first time in 11years, I got a code for "421" "rear inlet valve circuit, open/short circuit". After much troubleshooting by my mechanic and talking to other Volvo techs, all agreed that the Hydraulic Pump is faulty. This is the box that sits under the ABS module and has a number of solenoid operated valves that open and close electrically, hence providing you with the pumping action of ABS. If you have TRACS (I do) then their are extra valves. What's crazy is that this part is not known to fail, but the ABS module usually is the culprit. Anyway, it turns out that the pump is one of the most expensive parts on the car. I was quoted by two different Volvo parts departments, $2,200 Cdn or approx $1,500 American for just the part!!!!
You then have to add 4-6 hrs labour which includes a major bleeding of the system. Of course your "regular" brakes work, you just don't have ABS or TRACS.
I'm not sure what we will miss the most, ABS or TRACS, but I'm guessing I'll miss the TRACS function in the winter most. Needless to say, this $3,000 repair is not going to be done, given the age and mileage of the car. It has just brought my wife and I one step closer to purchasing a brand new S60 T-5 and keep the 850 as our "beater". Yes I will still purchase another Volvo, just hope that if you drive an 850, your Hydraulic Pump never fails....!
Just to share with fellow bricksters. What started out as my Tracs and ABS lamps coming on for the first time in 11years, I got a code for "421" "rear inlet valve circuit, open/short circuit". After much troubleshooting by my mechanic and talking to other Volvo techs, all agreed that the Hydraulic Pump is faulty. This is the box that sits under the ABS module and has a number of solenoid operated valves that open and close electrically, hence providing you with the pumping action of ABS. If you have TRACS (I do) then their are extra valves. What's crazy is that this part is not known to fail, but the ABS module usually is the culprit. Anyway, it turns out that the pump is one of the most expensive parts on the car. I was quoted by two different Volvo parts departments, $2,200 Cdn or approx $1,500 American for just the part!!!!
You then have to add 4-6 hrs labour which includes a major bleeding of the system. Of course your "regular" brakes work, you just don't have ABS or TRACS.
I'm not sure what we will miss the most, ABS or TRACS, but I'm guessing I'll miss the TRACS function in the winter most. Needless to say, this $3,000 repair is not going to be done, given the age and mileage of the car. It has just brought my wife and I one step closer to purchasing a brand new S60 T-5 and keep the 850 as our "beater". Yes I will still purchase another Volvo, just hope that if you drive an 850, your Hydraulic Pump never fails....!
and
ORIGINAL: brickboard.com
I have the similar problem with the ABS pump. The pump is good but one of the 4 brake connectors (near the firewall) on the side of the pump is leaking brake fluid down to the sub-frame. The Volvo price is $1600 (with TRAC) and 4 hours labor (including brake bleeding). So, total is around $2100. I have no ABS light at all, just minor leaking. Brake is firm and good even with the minor leaking.
My car is about 145k miles, and I want to keep it much longer. So, I will take $2100 out of my pocket to keep this car. Other than this issue, it is "so far so good".
As it turns out, two days ago my 'brake' light came on for aintermittently. It only seemed to happen on left hand turns. I checked the fluid and it was just below the 'min'. Fortunately this car is only a dog hauler, so I don't daily drive it. Well, I'll be looking for the leak and shopping for a used ABS pump.
Tech, thanks for the clarification on the module not going bad normally. - AB
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RE: Need some help with some trouble codes
Here's another from Volvospeed Bay 13 area on ABS/TRACS:
ORIGINAL: Volvospeed
To date I have not replace a hydraulic block unit on a 1996 or newer, however I have replaced a few on pre-1996 Volvos. Should a 400 series code be set, more than likely the hydraulic block will need replacing.
To date I have not replace a hydraulic block unit on a 1996 or newer, however I have replaced a few on pre-1996 Volvos. Should a 400 series code be set, more than likely the hydraulic block will need replacing.
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