I have a 1991 740 glt.. had for a month now, had sum vaccum hose issues but solved that.. then the fuel pressure regulator started leaking, tried to seal it with sum epoxy, it worked but the device is oviously faulty flattens the vacumm hose that goes into the intake... anyhow.. thats not real problem... my issue is yesterday I was driving n it just died, after acouple of test I determined that it wasnt getting a spark to the plugs... took out the distributor cap n seen that it was in need of a bath..lol.. I cleaned it out (may I add that the engine was extremely hot at the time that it died)..okay..checked my sparkplugs, they were fine.... so I figured that the coil/module (Rex Regina)must be faulty... I replaced that n nothing...now.. I got the thing towed to my house n I'm going through the wire harnest and I see corrosion at certain points.. I clean them n then crank the car n it starts.. goes for like 2 minutes n then dies... dont know what to do.. I cant find the book for this car no where, its like it dosnt exsist...dont know where the icm is for starters n I dont see a crankcase position sensor... can sumone give me an idea on where to start testing the posible source of my problems...thanx

 

I' going to go out on a limb here and say that you text a lot.

 

U have a sick car.. maybe sumday I could own sumthing like that, but for now I need to get mines started..lol.. I'm thinkin my car has a relay problem, no juice is comin from the fuse block, n what I've read these cars out last thier components, My car is in very good shape for a 19 year old car....no dents.. no rust... interiors is intact... love the leather... just moved to Puerto Rico a month ago n bought the thing the next day by luck...just had a baby boy on the 18th.. still got to do sum running around for the baby...no car tho.... this has me goin crazy...please help...

 

Sorry for my earlier comment; I was tired. Capital letters and occasional punctuation make it a lot easier to read. When I'm tired, your first post just all ran together. You have a lot of different, probably unrelated issues going on with your car. I'm thinking you need to get this car running for cheap or you wouldn't be patching the fuel pressure regulator. 1. Check the condition of your vacuum hoses again. Defective or not, no vac hose should be weak enough to get sucked flat. 2. How long and how hot did you get the motor? On an island 110 miles long and 40 miles wide I wouldn't think it would get too hot...still. 3. Do you own a digital volt/multi meter or a test light? They are quite helpful. 4. Have you checked your fuel pump relay? In the following picture it is the white, rectangular relay on the left in the middle row.

 

Try www.stepbystepvolvo.com and download free guide to 740 no-starts. That is for Bosch system, so I'm not sure if it applies to the Rex Regina. Still, it may help.

 

I do have a multimeter...the car only ran for 10 to 15 minutes before it died...I waited acouple of minutes n it started but just to die half a block down the road..The only vaccum hose that flattens out is the one that runs from the Fuel Pressure Regulator to the Intake Manifold... I know the F.P.R is shot.... I was in the process of finding one at a decent price..(never owned a Volvo berfore, Im more of a Chevy/Jeep type of guy) when this electrical crap took place...I have the Fuel Pump Relay in my hand, looks like someone already opened it up by the scratches it has at the bottom, anyhow. how do I test it? and is there anyway I could bypass it without frying sumthing else.. dont know the ohms its supposed to have? that would be a big help...I downloaded the wiring diagrams to the engine harness, so Im prepared i guess, yesterday I charged the battery n tried to start it and got nothing, just the dash lights came on, no starter motor, no nothing, I checked all my wiring to make sure everything was connected and found that the wiring harness on the Rear Passenger side the Protective Sleeve that covers the harness was full of water...UUUGGG... I sort of drained it out, water fell on the connection so I didnt bother with it, just let it dry out, today it should be dry, I really appreciate your help on this matter... ever come to Puerto Rico you get free tattoo, yeah Im a Professional Artist, ever want to see my work go to facebook> Alex Jones Jr... Alex Jones is my hero... you should know who he is, hes from Austin, TX....were all against the N.W.O. thats why I left the states.. anyhow, thats another story...you have a great day...long live the Republic n the Constitution...God Bless

 

Here's what you can do to see if power is making it to the fuel pump relay. Look at the picture I posted. If you pull the relay out, use a jumper wire w/ male spade terminals. Where the relay mounts, there are 2 parallel rows of three sockets. When you have a no-start, pull the relay and jumper the first socket (closest to you) on the left and the middle one on the right Turn the key to on w/ engine off. You should hear the fuel pump running, especially if you remove the gas cap. If you don't then your pump is probably dead. Be sure fuse #1 and #11 are good.

 

Im gettin 12.64 volts comin out of (30 & 87/2) without the key in the ignition, no whir though...(I didnt do the jump though)..okay I opened up the Relay and plugged it in, then turned the key to (2)...it clicked...so that Relay works right? okay if it does, I did a little homework lastnite... ever heard of a Ballast Resistor? dont know if this car has one, I was reading up on sum info that another subscriber pointed me to but that was for a Turbo Version... sum things didnt look familiar to me like the Auxilary Suppresion Relay, its supposedly next to the Power Steering Fluid Reservior--( gotta check twice )--- the Ballast Resistor is on the wall next to the Battery but it seems like the Battery is on the other side, couldnt open the hood today cuz its been pouring out here non stop...but its not supposed to be like that tomorrow, so I'm jumpin on that as soon as I wake up... I downloaded acouple of pdf files, like schematics n stuff, so I know whats what... I havent done homework like this since college... haaa, its always good to use your nugget though...keeps it tickin"...honestly I'm more of a dentist when it comes to cars.. I pull n replace...never had to use my multimeter for anything, had for 3 years.. had to crash course that on google too...hahaha.. thanx for your help though.. it saved me money that I dont have and time...tomorrow I'll check the pump n whats in between...be blessed..

 

I did the jump betwwen 30 and 87/2 and there was a whir without the key and with the key @ (2)...so what does that mean... pump still good? what do I do next? I have a Rex Regina EFI...I guess thats important.. my last reply to you I mentioned that I did some homework, well that was for a Turbo Bosch EFI...so it doesnt apply...fuses #1 and #11 are intact..

 

Well, if it's any consolation...I have a similar issue going on with my 90 740GL. It was originally Regina...still sort of is...that and Ford Mustang. Keep in mind, that fuel pump relay actually has 2 relays in it. One sends a signal to the fuel injectors, the other relay sends power to the intank fuel pump, at least on the Bosch injection. My Regina will run when jumpered as mentioned. Yours may not, it's been 3 years since I wired it for the V8 and I'm going to have to trace wires. Try the jumper wire again and see if the car will start and run. Mine does...in fact, I drove it a mile back to the house! I'll tell you now, if you can run it w/ the jumper, use a 12 gauge jumper wire. I used a 16 ga. and the connectors were almost melted in just a mile of driving. Assuming the relay you have is good, then the signal to energize the fuel pump relay is missing. I have other cars to drive so I'll track it down in my spare time. Let me know if it will run when jumpered.

 

I tried to start the car with the jump n nothing, one thing I did notice was that both units within the relay are working, they both click....seen it with my eyes... I still got nothing... this is frustrating...found a bunch of corroded connections(Oxidation) so I'm clean up what I see as I go along the wiring harness... its hot as hell out here, ****....! I'll wait till either the sun go down or it gets cloudy....

 

Tried the jump and nothing, the Relay does work, both Units click when I tried to start... I checked under the hood and as I was going along the harness I found Oxidation in all the connectors... this is frustrating, gonna clean up as I go along, dont understand, the day I towed it here the Engine was atleast turning, found that water in the harness n it hasnt done nothing since then... hit u bak later..thanx for the input

 

Take a look at the picture...see the two relays on the overflow bottle? One is called the radio suppression relay...what it really does is fire the injectors. Both relays are identical. You can swap the two connectors and see if it starts that way.

 

Hey Swift, got a question, Well I did all the Connectors in the Engine Compartment, eveything between the Coil to the Sparkplugs ( the old ones were black )are brand new, I still havent got the Fuel Pressure Regulator, I put everything back together this morning and got this thing started, I even pulled the Crank Position Sensor and cleaned it up, anyhow, I let it run and it died 10 minutes later... thinking the Fuel Filter or the External Fuel Pump is on its way out...what do you think? hey thank for your help, Be Blessed...