Hi. I have a 1989 740 GL and i am interested in turbocharging it. I know, i know, why not just get a turbocharged one and all, but fact is, this is what i got and i got it for a steal so this is what im working with.

I see that the exhaust manifold looks like a regular t3 flange, so am i right in assuming that i can bolt direct to that?

I just realized this is going to be a longish list of questions, so im sorry, youve been warned.

Also, with the bosch system in my car (i think it is a 2.2, might be 2.4) what sort of boost can it handle with its set fuel maps? I have heard around 6 or 7 psi above atmospheric pressure but i am not sure.

A related question, if i can squeeze around 6 or 7 psi without any ecu changes, could i potentially get a few more psi with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that would kick in whenever under boost or am i pushing it then.

I am very unfamialiar with the bosch system and am relatively in the dark about whats its capabilities are, and am open to suggestion. I have turbocharged an elantra 2003, but with that the whole fuel and engine management issues were taken care of with an aem engine piggback system.

what are my options as far as pushing for higher boost levels around 15 or 18 psi as far as fuel and engine tuning/ management are.

Also does anyone know anything about a second fuel rail that can be purchased for my car?

thanks.
Alex

 

I see that the exhaust manifold looks like a regular t3 flange, so am i right in assuming that i can bolt direct to that?

No, I have a spare 90- turbo manifold sitting in my garage. but you will still need a down pipe.

Also, with the bosch system in my car (i think it is a 2.2, might be 2.4) what sort of boost can it handle with its set fuel maps? I have heard around 6 or 7 psi above atmospheric pressure but i am not sure.

I believe 8lbs is the understood limit. I'mnot sure but i believe the difference in the NA and turbo fuel system is injectors. But i'm not sure, I am by far not an LH specialist. Bubba on here can probably tell you better.

A related question, if i can squeeze around 6 or 7 psi without any ecu changes, could i potentially get a few more psi with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that would kick in whenever under boost or am i pushing it then.

You can do that, but, I t hink changing the injectors to some higher lb/hr would be the better way to do it.

what are my options as far as pushing for higher boost levels around 15 or 18 psi as far as fuel and engine tuning/ management are.

MegaSquirt, and all the expensive ones will work, but megasquirt is cheap and easy,a nd you just need a crappy lap top to run it.

Also does anyone know anything about a second fuel rail that can be purchased for my car?

Well that depends on the head you have. 240 turbos from the 1981 to 1985 era came with a head that had injector bungs in them for the Kjet system. (Group A 240's in racing guise ran a similar set up to what i'm describing, except one set of injectors ran fuel, the other set ran methanol, totally bad ***) I have seen these modified to run injectors in them. Then you can use the B23 intake that you already have to run a second set. But that won't be necessary as you're just not going to reach those power levels. Again, one set of larger injectors can band aid this problem.

Hope this helps. Here is an article on Plus T for a NA volvo. http://www.pbase.com/740atl/turbo_swap

 

thanks 4 ur reply.

good info in that link.

what flange is that on the mani?? t3??

 

I read through your post and I'm kinda confused.Are you wanting 6 or 18 psi?There's a big a$$ difference between the two.The easiest thing to do is go to your local pnp and try to get the complete setup.With the stock turbo fuel and ignition ecu's you should be safe to about 12 psi,anything over that would require fuel mod's.


Dan

 

my post ws unclear b/c i was trying to find both basic info (low psi) and then i was reffering to how ppl typically provide for the higher boost in these cars.

realistically, im probably not going to run more than 11 or 12 until i get a spare 230f to really play with.

what is the bolt pattern on the exhaust mani?

 

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0010_large.jpg

not mine, but thats what they look like. IF your talking about the flange it's a volvo T3 flange.

 

I have another question. The 90+ manifolds will not allow a TD05 to be mounted. Correct? However the 90+s supposedly flow much better (and while being more prone to cracking) will allow for a bit more power.

However The 89 and older manifolds will allow a TD05. But those are a little bit more restrictive?

What are my options here? Can I make the TD05 fit on the 90+ mani? (maybe add a extra thick flange between the mani and turbo)
Is the improved mani really even that much better, or would i be better set to just use an 89 or so and go with the TD05?

Or should i just go with the 90 and put a 04 on it?

Im looking for whatever will give me the most power, honestly, so whats your thoughts?
Do I go TD05 with an old style mani, Force fit a TD05 on a 90+ manifold (if thats even possible im asking you guys ;-) ), or take the 90+ mani and pair it with a TD04.

I really want to put a 05 in this car, because i feel that the 04 is going to spool way to quickly for what im looking for.

also, for the computers i need out of a donor car, since my car has jetronic 2.4 i believe, does that mean i need to pull the fuel and ignition computers from a 90+ turbo car? as i have been told, they switch from 2.2 to 2.4 in 88 for naturally aspirated, 90 for turbo.

thanks a bunch.

 

91+ manifolds are almost always cracked when you buy them, but you can have a very skilled welder fix that. Yes they do flow more but the also have to be ported to accept a true T3 while as the 91- manifolds are allready for a T3. I'm not sure about the TD05 turbos, I think they are 3 bolt if they are greddy modified but 4 bolt if they are standard mitsubishi models. someone who knows more abotu those can chime in. I really only know about Garrett. Though, also mits/greddy turbos require a water cooling line. Where as the Garrets just need an oil line.

I'm running a Garret .63/48 right now. I guess it's limit of power is about 250 to 275hp. And thats a surprising amount of power. If I was to jump up I would build a T4T3 hybrid. Basically keep my .63 hotside and put a .60 coldside on. Thats good for, uhh, I don't know 300 to 350 hp. But you also should run a pretty sweet intercooler with any set up you go with. I would recommend the large NPR intercooler.

You also have to think about the downpipe. I'm having a local shop crush bend a 3 inch turbo back exhaust with a side exit for me. But you can use a stock 740 one and splice it into your current setup.

 

A variant of the TD05 was used in some 740s in the years 87-89. I think.

and what is the year the manifolds change? 90 or 91?? which ones have a port?

 

the td0413c was stock. 91 is the cut off. I prefer garret turbos, they just seem better.

 

VOLVO 740 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05

http://www.gamesbbs.com/~turbosi/jun...urbo_list.html

u sure?

 

Ohh yeah the 12b, forgot about those since they don't fit 91+ manifolds without a lot of work, and you would be better off with a tdo4 13g, since they are more efficient. And because they are a solid waste of time.

quote from a very knowledgeable turbo guy

"to me the volvo TDO5 is a "dead end" turbo platform for making big power.

work needed to get one to make 225hp

1. get a bigger compressor wheel (16g and bigger require a H size turbine wheel)
2. get it to mate to a 90+ manifold. (its possible but timeconsuming and potentially can ruin the turbine housing.
3. Have a good workin wastegate. (a external wastegate is the only way I can see that crapy gate working well.)

So you read that and thought well then what's the point.

Here's the point. If you are looking for a huge squirl sucking turbo, look twords another platform. The tdo5 12b will not easily compete with a t3/4 hybrid or a holset, or another specialty performance turbo.

By machining the turbine housing to acept the bigger mitsubhishi heavy industries wheel (H denoted on tdo5H) you can add much larger compressor wheels. A tdo5h hot side and a 16G or better cold side will flow much more than any of the td04 offerings. You are still limited to the soso design of the volvo tdo5 turbine housing. Poor internal wastegate, and ment only for a pre 90 manifold.

For a daily driver, for someone who dosent have a 90+ mani or the budget to get a real performance turbo, or for someone who dosent want to make 300hp, its a fine turbo.

To directally answer your question a td05 12b has an exhaust side that flows better than a tdo4h 13G but the 12b compresor wheel is not as efficient."

So in other words, your wasting your time junior. Go buy a used Garrett t3 .63/.48 or.42 each can be had for 150 in good condition. Then spend 60-75 dollars on a .60 coldside and have the capabilities to go over 300hp. Or just be a smart ***, which ever works better.

 

I wasnt being a smart ***, buddy, i was just asking about those turbos. You didnt mention them and I wanted to know more about them, because from my research they looked attractive. If i pissed you off im sorry. From your post I can see your thinking now, and that you didnt mention them because they arent what i want. But you dont have to be rude in your response to me as if i am saying i know more than you. I am asking a question of you and everyone. If i was going to go be a smartass i wouldn't be asking for help.