Hi I have an 83 240 I bought not running. It did eventually start and ran really well today, so I took it out on some errands. About 3 miles from home, it whiffed a couple times on acceleration then died at idle. I had just filled the tank with fuel and about a block later It just cut out. The engine cranks but will not fire.
-The timing belt is intact
-There are no blown fuses including the 25A blade
-It has 4 working ECU's, 2 AMM's, 2 ICU's that came with the car.
-Fuel and system relays operate.
-Both fuel pumps run
-Plugs are wet, getting fuel
-Spark from coil, not the strongest.
-CTS appears within specs
Does anyone have any ideas what to check from here?

 

Change your cap & rotor.

 

cap rotor and spark plug wires.

an 83, which fuel injection system does it have? I know early 240s were K-Jet, then LH-II, then LH2.2 by the mid 80s, and LH2.4 starting in about 89, I'm mostly familiar with the last two.

weak spark could be an issue with the power module for the ignition, I believe this is a seprate block from the ICU on most of these cars.

 

Here's a good place for the volvo's green book manuals:

K-Jet.org | Mechanical Fuel Injection Power!

Here are two manuals from that website about the fuel injection and ignition:

http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...et_v2_b23f.pdf

http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...et_v2_b23f.pdf

 

those two links are the same and both apply to the B23F with LH II, I'm not sure what year that stopped and was replaced with LH2.2.

ok, I found an old Greenbook that lists engine types. I guess K-Jet was only on B21F engines from 75-81, in 82 B21F were LH, and 83-84 were B23F with LH-II (talking about US models only, overseas there were lots of other combinations, even B17A carbed 1.7L engines up to 84). I *think* the B230F with LH2.2 was new in 85 or so? and LH2.4 was new in 89 (again, in the US)

 

Okay here's the actual stuff I promised. I got side tracked and relized that I no longer have Photoshop.

Below is part one:

 

Part 2:

 

The last part.

Part 3:

 

I also forgot to mention that after looking at some of those manuals on k-jet.org it looks like the hall effect sensor is actually stock, so it's a likely suspect.

This link was the other that I meant to post earlier:

http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...on_systems.pdf

 

I have not been able to locate a jy distributor or a retail hall sensor yet. I believe my distributor is bosch, not chrysler but what is the difference? I cant make out any writing on the dist. body. Besides the $500-700 new distributors, all I can find is autozone and O'rielly rebuilds. Anyone have experience with these?

 

if the distributor cap is orange, its probably bosch, and if its white, its probably chrysler. why do you think you need a new distributor? other than the cap, the rotor, and the sensor, there's really nothing else to go wrong. all those parts are available from folks like Volvo Parts, Accessories and Performance Specialist Since 1963

Product Search: DISTRIBUTOR CAP & ROTOR

 

I live down the street from Fochs, and had a look. The cap and rotor look fine. The car did start. After looking at it a bit it fired up and ran well. I'm thinking that its a failing hall sensor. I just read that the hall effect sensor plug on that model is notoriously bad and they sold sleeves to make better contact. You could try crushing them a bit with some very small needle nose pliers. That would make since because we unplugged the connector and it started the very next time.

 

hah! that rocks.


yeah, that or bad wiring, loose sockets in connectors, etc. corroded connections makes all kinda bad ju-ju.

 

I replaced the distributor with a jy piece and it did run afterward, then died. Turns out the wiring spliced into the fuel pump by the P.O. was wrapped really tight and shorting out through the insulation. Nice intermittant, no?. The hall sensor had me at no spark- the wiring at no fuel.
Thanks to all!