About a month ago sitting in traffic car started running very ruff and finally stalled. When restarted it ran ruff but I kept it from stalling by pumping gas pedal while I pulled over. It stalled again and after sitting for about 10 min it started up and ran smooth and I drove home. The same thing happened again yesterday. Except I drove it about a mile while running ruff. Car had no power and barely made it up a small hill. Once it sat for 10 min it ran fine.????? Any help would be appreciated

 

that could be almost anything.

are you getting a check engine light? even if its not on, are there any error codes on the ECU or ICU diagnostic block ? see https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html for how you read this (don't need any tools, there's a button and LED under the hood)

are there any air leaks in your intake air path between the MAF/AMM and the intake manifold?

any crusty looking wiring with cracked insulation?

what condition are the spark plugs in? the distributor cap and rotor? the spark plug wires?

fuel pump relay could be getting flakey.

fuses on your main fuse panel (near drivers door) could be corroded and making intermittent ocntact. replace all of them with Flosser brand copper/brass ceramic fuses, you can find these on ebay as 'mercedes w123, w124 fuses", a complete set for like $15 or something is way more than enough to change ALL the fuses... clean the fuse contact clips while you do this, using a soft pink pencil eraser...

 

Fuel pressure regulator...., its letting to much fuel by so when you try and let it idle you can't burn enough fuel and causes it to spit sputter and then die. The reason it fires up again and runs fine later is because the excessive fuel that cause it to stall dries up. Also the reason you able to keep it running by reving up the engine was because at RPM's your burning some of that unwanted fuel. I have had a FPR give me this issue so I am pretty confident.

 

Thank you Pierce. No check engine light. Just pulled the codes (first chance I've had). I got 214. Which according to manual is Ignition rpm signal erratic. I will look around online to see what this is? Your opinion would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank you John. I pulled codes today and got 214. Ignition rpm signal erratic? The FPR is a Bosch and not even 2 years old. I would hope they last longer than that but you never know.

 

If your getting a code 214 that could target your issue, thats a CPS a crank position sensor. Its very vital for it to operate correctly and would cause the symptoms you described although most of the time just fail completely.

Skip the FPR with the 214 code present .....CPS is more likely.

 

Pierce I just ordered a set of fuses. Thanks for all the info. My spare fuses were not new.